Sunday, Jul 15, 2007 at 19:29
I didn't go with the canvas because of security and dust issues.
My suggestions if going the metal canopy:
- no need for a tray if you're not going to make it removable - tray just adds a bit of weight.
- Closed back is good - no way for dust to get in, and good place for spare wheels and HF aerial.
- If mounting spares on rear, just bolt them through to the inside - more secure, less weight, and with the full tyre pressing against the canopy, more stable.
- The space under the tray is ideally suited for a
water tank and either a second tank or skinny spare tyre.
- Keep all the weighty stuff forward - especially with a dual cab.
- Full length lift up side doors give you shade and shelter.
- Side doors are best hinged as high as possible - so you have good head clearance.
- The continuous fully sealed plastic hinge is great for keeping water out of the canopy. Its nice to have it come out an inch or so past the door so water runs off
well.
- Theres different T-handle locks out there. The newer black ones feature a roller plus they pull in after you turn them - they always open easily.
- The pinchweld and rubber seal around the doors work
well.
- shape: totally square means you hit more trees when offroading, tapered suits the shape of the vehicle.
Mine tapers from 400mm up, to suit the engel fridges, and so I don't lose space.
- lights - easily mounted on the inside of the outer part of the foors for a wide spread of light. I don't put lights inside the canopy because you'll get insects inside the canopy.
- draws under the canopy are very hard to seal, and don't hold much, so I'd prefer that space be used for a spare tyre or fuel tank.
- windows - I'm not sure why people put them in - I feel security is better without them, and use a camera for rear vision.
Interior - have fridge as low as possible, so you can get in it.
Fridge doesn't need to slide unless you are pushed for space, and need the space above it. But a fridge on a slide is about 2 inches higher than one thats not.
Roofrack:
Mine is simply 100mm mesh welded onto a 25mm frame and bolted to the roof - holds anything, anywhere and still goes into the garage and carparks.
Have fun, and think it all out before you commit the $$$$
Cheers
Phil
AnswerID:
252578
Follow Up By: Big Mike - Sunday, Jul 15, 2007 at 21:22
Sunday, Jul 15, 2007 at 21:22
Hey Phil and Forumites,
The pro's and con's of alloy vs steel, strength vs weight. Are these still issues and would a alloy box survive a few trips on the CoRRuGaTiOnS as good as a steel box.
Thanks in advance for
feedback
Mike
FollowupID:
513679
Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Jul 15, 2007 at 21:40
Sunday, Jul 15, 2007 at 21:40
Mike,
Depends on the quality of construction.
I went for aluminium because I was paranoid about the weight. I've had the box on for over 2 years, and structurally, its still as good as when I bought it. But it was very
well made from mostly 3mm aluminium. Its done a lot of corrugations - two Anne Beadell Hwy trips,
Connie Sue Hwy, most of the Gunbarrel Hwy etc etc as
well as the slow crawls like
Madigan Line, without an issue. All the corners on
mine are turned - two 45 degree bends to give it a nice finish, and avoids the need for stacks of bracing. I can't weld to it, but its pretty easy to bolt or rivet onto it.
If i were to do it again, I'd have an open mind about steel - given that the steel can be a lot thinner, so the weight difference may not matter, and steel is cheaper. But if cost was not a factor, aluminium is nice.
FollowupID:
513683
Follow Up By: Big Mike - Sunday, Jul 15, 2007 at 22:23
Sunday, Jul 15, 2007 at 22:23
Thanks Phil,
Does the Alum paint up ok, Presume Gone Bush WA new flash red one is steel, looks great.
FollowupID:
513692
Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Jul 15, 2007 at 22:49
Sunday, Jul 15, 2007 at 22:49
Mine's done in 2-pak to match the vehicle - better finish than the Toyota paint. Doesn't scratch.
FollowupID:
513696