1HZ squealing fanbelts again
Submitted: Tuesday, Sep 11, 2007 at 21:24
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Harrow
OK put on a new matched pair genuine fanbelts.
After 1000 km starting to squeal again for 2-3 min after start cold motor
Tension still tight.
Had new alt pulley
Previous matched set had difficulty stoping squealing, had 1/2 teeth torn off after 15.000km/ 128 months
Can over tightening cause this
This problem is persistant
how has others cured their problem
Belt Dressing ?, Tighten/ loosen ?
Thanks
Harrow
Reply By: Bilbo - Tuesday, Sep 11, 2007 at 21:52
Tuesday, Sep 11, 2007 at 21:52
Harrow,
I donlt know what kind of belt they are on a 1HZ. However if they are those ribbed or 'grooved' belts and fitted with a similarly riibbed pulley, I had the sanme problem with Suzuku Swift a few years back.
After trying just about everything, including a new water pump and new alternator bearings, I finally figured out what it was.
The pulley had worn slightly and this was causing the 'grooves' in the belt to "bottom out" on the pulley grooves. This prevents the belt from sitting 'proud' in the grooves and it'll slip no matter how hard you tighten it, or no mater how much "Belt Grip" you spray on it.
I fixed
mine by first removing the belt and then starting the engine - with a hard, fine, flat file running against the top edges of pulley grooves. I could only run the engine for about 5 minutes as without the one belt, there's no water pump. It is, howver an electric rad fan.
It wore out the file pretty quickly 'cos the pulley is very hard steel - harder than a file!! But it fixed it.
On a Suzi Swift this method was a lot easier 'n cheaper than taking the engnine out to remove the crankshaft pulley - a new pullley was "horrendous dollars" as
well! It's an 'east-west' engine on the Suzis.
Bilbo
AnswerID:
261632
Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, Sep 11, 2007 at 22:05
Tuesday, Sep 11, 2007 at 22:05
Harrow,
Putting genuine twin belts on was a good start. They are not ribbed. I change
mine every 100,000k and theres no real
sign of wear.
I think they are still insufficiently tensioned. The span on those belts is pretty short, so theres not much deflection when they are correctly tensioned. I take it when the belts were off, that the alternator and water pump rolled smoothly?
And I'll assume that you've ruled out noise from the air conditioner belt and idler pulley.
AnswerID:
261635
Reply By: Olcoolone- Tuesday, Sep 11, 2007 at 23:08
Tuesday, Sep 11, 2007 at 23:08
All V belts are designed to be driven from the sides, as one of the post above mentioned about the belt bottoming out, if it bottoms out the belt will be over heated and start to glaze.
I would
check all your pulleys to see if the belts are bottoming out and if they are replace the pulley or have ir remachined.
Check also for belt alignment, a belt should have no more then 2mm over a 300mm span.
Using a file is not a good idea because it it very hard to get the right angle of the V.
One other thing is to
check the cross section size of the belt, automotive belts come in a range of cross sections 9A, 10A, 11A, 13A, and 15A before you start going into B,C and Poly Groove belts.
Always make sure you use a belt designed for automotive applications....these belt are designed more for high speed.
Regards Richard
AnswerID:
261646