Deep Cycle Batteries - Charging

Submitted: Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 13:09
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Have just completed a long trip (18,500 kms) and had a 100amp deep cycle battery for the accessories etc.

I found it great for running the fridge etc. but wow it was slow at charging whilst driving. It doesnt take the full charge (I thought that before I left but the battery place told me they use them for the hire campers and said they accept full charge, yeah right).

Any comments

Also, if I was to run a battery charger (when using powered sites), what would be the best solution?
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Reply By: Robin Miller - Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 13:41

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 13:41
Hi Vcbb

Takes a good low resistance setup to charge from car only, but its achieveable.

Is 2nd battery in car or a camper ?

Best is always a step up charger (like CTEK) from car system for travelling when battery is located far from main battery.

The more the better, but even the lower output 7 amp types work well and wiring is less critcal.

Robin Miller
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Follow Up By: vcbb - Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 13:46

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 13:46
We have a Opposite Lock battery box in the back of the ute
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Reply By:- Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 13:55

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 13:55
You need to hook up second battery to main one with good thick cable, as least 4G to make resistance minimum and charge it properly. If you are using some kind of isolators then keep in mind that electronic one have voltage drop about 0.5V. You can compensate against it, but then main battery became overcharged. And so on. If you using deep one just for running fridge, particularly in caravan, I would rather use inverter and good charger like CTEK to charge it. Or if it under bonnet put good cable between batteries and if in doubt put good mechanical switch between them to separate them overnight.
Cheers
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Tuesday, Sep 18, 2007 at 09:57

Tuesday, Sep 18, 2007 at 09:57
Are you aware of the Voltage drop in a SOLENOID type isolator ??
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Follow Up By:- Tuesday, Sep 18, 2007 at 14:19

Tuesday, Sep 18, 2007 at 14:19
Should not be really much if properly done (but small amount would exist). And way smaller then electronic one anyway. I would suggest to put good relay (say 30A) in parallel to solenoid. Smaller relays has much less resistance and it shouldn’t burn as long as you will not try to disengage solenoid while relay is on or engage relay with solenoid off.
Cheers.
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Wednesday, Sep 19, 2007 at 10:33

Wednesday, Sep 19, 2007 at 10:33
Do I understand you believe there is a larger voltage drop in an Electronic Battery Isolator than in a Mechanical Solenoid ??

Then a more direct question should be:
Please post the voltage drop when using a "Mechanical" Solenoid
Eg; Redarc, ARB etc
where 12v battery power has to be used to constantly retain the alloy 'slug' against internal spring pressure, onto the contacts to allow the current to flow between the two batteries.

You say above, the voltage drop using an "Electronic" battery Isolator
Eg; Piranha or Rotronics etc is 0.5 Volt.

Can you please post a link that confirms your opinion, as I definitely don't believe the voltage drop created by an Electronic Battery Isolator is 1/2 a Volt, or is larger than a Mechanical Solenoid either.

What is the Amp capacity of 4 gauge cable ?
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Follow Up By:- Wednesday, Sep 19, 2007 at 12:12

Wednesday, Sep 19, 2007 at 12:12
Yep, I do strongly believe that voltage drop in electronic isolator would be bigger then *PROPER* mechanical one. Doggy mechanical one can screw everything, of course. In ideal mechanical isolator voltage drop is 0.0V, while electronic one has residual voltage drop by its nature (because some kind of diode/transistor inside). Also do not quote me please about exact 0.5 V, but it is substantial enough for being ignoring (for charging). Give me time - probably I could find out more info.

Amp capacity of 4GA cable about 110Amps for continuous current.
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Thursday, Sep 20, 2007 at 11:04

Thursday, Sep 20, 2007 at 11:04
Sorry but I can't agree, presently not 'home' with access to the relevant web sites to confirm my original post.


So yes, as you have suggested

""Give me time - probably I could find out more info::

I await you to confirm the information you have posted.... :-)
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Reply By: MEMBER - Darian (SA) - Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 14:00

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 14:00
For charging on mains anywhere, any of the quality 3-4 stage smart chargers should suit - designed to connect and leave for the duration - when full they go to float mode - they have a selector switch for gel and/or wet types. More $ = more current = shorter charge time it seems. http://www.sidewinder.com.au (advertises here) is one source of tech advice and prices.
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Reply By: Keith_A (Qld) - Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 15:47

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 15:47
Hi VCBB - also worth taking a look at Collyn Rivers site - explains the issues in clear simple language :
Here is the site :http://www.caravanandmotorhomebooks.com/articles/index.htm

.....................Keith
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Follow Up By: vcbb - Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 16:56

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 16:56
Thanks Keith , much appreciated.

Very interesting reading, especially in using a 3 stage charger via an invertor whilst driving? Instead of using the alternator.

Have many people used this?

I still wonder how much charge a Deep Cycle takes compared to a normal battery
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Follow Up By: Mike Harding - Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 17:28

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 17:28
I can't give technical support for this statement but my experience of deep discharge batteries is that their internal impedance is higher and, thus, they will not accept as high a charge as other types of lead acid battery.

If it were possible to locate a decent data sheet for one I might be able to give better info. but finding full technical data sheets for lead acid or any type (except AGM) of battery is not easy!

Mike Harding
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Follow Up By: disco1942 - Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 19:47

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 19:47
With all the talk about the fact that a vehicle alternator will not charge a deep cycle battery to more than 70% of its rated capacity, it is surprising that people are still promoting recharging from the alternator. The best article from Keith's link is BATTERY CHARGING AND BATTERY CHARGERS

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Reply By: Crackles - Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 17:16

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 17:16
A few things could be limiting the charge getting to the deep cycle. The distance to the rear of the car requires a fairly thick run of copper & should include a negative wire not just earthed to the body. In many cases it can be something as simple as a poor connection. Charging two dissimilar batteries can often see the start batt recieve charge quicker so over short drives in particular a deep cycle may recieve little. Depending on your duel battery system they too can divert charge to the start batt first & when they reach a predetemined voltage only then does the deep cycle get anything. The amount of charge available may be a bit low as well if the altenator is an older small amperage unit & you have heaps of assesories running. My Hilux for example only had a 55 amp altenator & if I ran the stereo & all the driving lights at once the batteries would go backwards.
I have had no problems charging deep cycles for 25 years even used in conjuction with a start battery so I'd suggest there may be some other issues causing your problem, I wouldn't be blaming the battery just yet.
Out of intrest how are you measuring if it is at full charge & what % do you think it gets up to after a couple of hours drive?
Cheers Craig............
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Follow Up By: disco1942 - Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 19:57

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 19:57
The problem with charging batteries from alternators is generally not the with the limited current available from low capacity alternators. When an engine compartment warms up so does the starting battery. Alternators have temperature compensation built in so that a warm battery (that requires a lower voltage to charge than a cold one to charge) is not boiled dry. The battery that you are charging is out in the cold and does not warm up so it is receiving insufficient voltage to produce much charging current. Added to that an alternator will not fully charge a battery anyway.

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Reply By: bmwrider - Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 18:19

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 18:19
I was at the Opposite Lock shop today and was reading the data on the the Rotronics dual battery system. I have one of these systems and did have some trouble with charging my batteries when I was running two fridges (one fridge, one freezer) on my Canning Stock Route trip. What I learnt was that you can have a Parallel connection or an independant connection. Most are parallel (cheaper). This charges both batteries at the same time but will only charge your deep cycle battery to 90% capacity. An AGM battery will only be charged to about 85% capacity. A deep cycle battery that has been 90% discharged can take as long as 8 hours to recharge. With an independant connection the cars battery is charged first and then the second battery is charged. This connection will allow your deep cycle battery to be charged to 100%. They recommend this connection for AGM batteries and can charge one of these to maximum charge in 2 hours. I wish I had known this when I was setting up for my trip. I ended up with the parallel connection with a deep cycle battery. Where as I really needed an independant connection with an AGM battery to keep up with the power drain. Hope this helps.

Garry
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Follow Up By: disco1942 - Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 20:18

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 20:18
Garry

This so called independent connection only takes less than aminute to recharge the starting battery back to its usual 75% of maximum capacity. The two batteries are then connected in parallel and the charging carries on exactly the same way as the parallel connection setting. See the links in Reply 4 and find out why your battery will not be fully charged.

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Reply By: drivesafe - Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 21:34

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 21:34
Hi vcbb, are you enjoying all the fairy tales being posted about how you batteries aren’t going to be fully charged unless you spend lots of dollars, all because your alternator can’t fully charge your battery.

I’m sorry but most of this misinformation is total MYTH.

For a start, if your battery is not fully charging, the two most common causes are the battery cables are too thin and/or you not driving long enough to allow the battery to charge.

Neither has anything to do with the ability of your alternator to be able to charge your deep cycle battery to at least 95% and I say 95% because it is almost impossible to determine if a battery is 100% fully charged without removing the battery from the vehicle and taking it to a laboratory to have it analysed, not exactly practical.

Now whether you believe what I have posted is correct or not is up to you but contrary to all the so called experts that claim, for what ever reason, that your alternator will not fully charge a battery, start by checking what the real battery experts say.

By real battery experts, I’m talking about the battery manufacturers. Find one battery manufacturer that states that their automotive battery can not be fully charged by a vehicle alternator.

Before you go spending a fortune in an attempt at fixing the problem of your deep cycle battery not charging properly, do a fair bit of research first

When you get the correct info you will see it’s not going to cost you very much at all to permanently solve your problem.

Again, any battery, cranking or deep cycle, intended for automotive use, an be fully charged to at least 95% by the vehicle’s alternator, IF the vehicle is set up correctly in the first place.
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Follow Up By: Member - Ian W (NSW) - Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 22:58

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 22:58
And the correct set up is?


Wait!....Wait!........................It's coming...........It's coming!
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Follow Up By: drivesafe - Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 23:07

Monday, Sep 17, 2007 at 23:07
Hi Ian, as posted, just fitting the correct sized wire, both positive and negative, will resolve at least 90 to 95% of all problems associated with not being able to charge a battery properly, no matter where the battery is located.
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Tuesday, Sep 18, 2007 at 10:22

Tuesday, Sep 18, 2007 at 10:22
If you look at the charging problem with an open mind, Ummm, ok in a sceptical way, then why would a 12v battery NOT be fully charged when it's receiving a current going into it in excess of what it contains ?

I also believe, like DS, that most charging "Myths" can be fixed by having the battery system wired "correctly" to a 'standard' not to a price !!
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Follow Up By: disco1942 - Tuesday, Sep 18, 2007 at 20:08

Tuesday, Sep 18, 2007 at 20:08
Ian

The correct setup is to ditch the regulator that is supplied with your alternator and replace it with a smart regulator that is supplied by marine electrical people. These smart regulators have a temperature sensor that is glued to your battery. Unless the temperature compensation senses your battery temperature you will encounter times that your battery will be overcharged. That is why auto alternators are throttled back, so they will not overcharge the starting battery under any conditions.

Marine electricians are more switched on than auto ones. They have to be because when you are out in the ocean you need a more reliable system and to be able to get more out of your batteries. That is why they have developed smart regulators.

Mainey

"when it's receiving a current going into it in excess of what it contains ?" What you are describing here is overcharging. If batteries are constantly being overcharged you will kill them in quick time. That is why auto regulators are throttled back - so that they will not overcharge the starting battery under any condition.

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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Wednesday, Sep 19, 2007 at 11:01

Wednesday, Sep 19, 2007 at 11:01
Peter,
My post was a question, hence the question mark ( ? )
"Ummm, ok in a sceptical way, why would a 12v battery NOT be fully charged when it's receiving a current going into it in excess of what it contains ?"

I'm sure you don't believe you can recharge a battery that is 12.3v with less than 12.3v ??
( assuming everything else is correct and equal )

But I believe your point is;
IF you CONSTANTLY charge a 12v battery it will overcharge and will be destroyed.
I fully agree, and that is the sole reason a "regulator" is used, as you say, simply to avoid over-charging & damage to the battery.

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Reply By: vcbb - Tuesday, Sep 18, 2007 at 18:21

Tuesday, Sep 18, 2007 at 18:21
This has generated some very good discussion. To clear up my story a bit:

I have an opposite lock battery box, which was supplied very thick cable (pos & neg) to run from the engine bay, and all the bits and pieces. Perfect for the vehciles with no room in the

The main battery is provided with charge first, then when fully charged ((based on voltage), the second battery is charged.

Most of the days we were driving was for 5 - 8 hours, so it was getting many hours charge.

I thought, that Deep Cycles only accept a trickle charge..... is this true or does it accept full charge from the alternator???????

Towards the end of the trip , from Townsville to Laverton, ( 6 - 8 hours per day), I noticed, that on the battery display in the cab (OL dual battery monitor), that when stopping the battery went down to 50 - 70% after only a couple hours, and this was different behaviour from the first few weeks of the trip. It didnt appear I was getting as many hours out of the battery. It had been drained a couple of times to zero during the trip, so I am thinking this may have some affect on the battery.
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Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Tuesday, Sep 18, 2007 at 19:38

Tuesday, Sep 18, 2007 at 19:38
I have a system not too dissimilar to yours mate.....

On the back of the Chev dual cab Patrol, I have a cargo box. In that box I have 2 extra batteries. One is a cranker which is permanently coupled to the main battery under the bonnet; no solenoid etc....Nuffin!!!!

The other one is a Fullriver AGM battery which runs all the accessories like fridge compressor, rear lights and side lights, HF radio, inverter etc.

This one receives it charge from an ARRID TWIN CHARGE. This is like a normal 240 volt charger, but it only takes 12v to run it.

I recently fitted a digital voltmeter in the cab which I can switch between the 2 starter batts and the Fullriver. The Fullriver actually has a higher charge voltage when I'm driving along, than the other 2 do (and they're getting their charge directly from the alternator, of course). So, it is actually possible get more charge into your aux batt than the alternator produces. There's not a lot in it, but enough......the starter batts show around 13.8 while flicking the switch to the Fullriver reveals around 14.2; so a 0.4volt difference.

Cheers

Roachie
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Thursday, Sep 20, 2007 at 10:41

Thursday, Sep 20, 2007 at 10:41
Roachie, You say-> "The Fullriver actually has a higher charge voltage when I'm DRIVING ALONG, than the other 2 do, and they're getting their charge directly from the alternator, of course"

That can be explained simply, the Fullriver battery being an AGM battery, has a much, did I say much lower internal resistance than any wetcell cranking battery, that's what allows AGM's to recharge much fuller and faster, as your system shows you it is, but this is only 'surface voltage' and would reduce to a 'real voltage' when at rest.

When I connect my Cranking battery (Deep Cycle SVRLA) direct to the AGM Deep Cycle Aux batteries, thus forming only one large battery, all the voltages become identical , doesn't matter where they are measured. Originally the voltages would have been, ~12.6v and ~12.8v when measured individually and at rest.
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Thursday, Sep 20, 2007 at 19:52

Thursday, Sep 20, 2007 at 19:52
Mainey,
You may have missed the fact that Roachie uses an Arrid Twin Charge.
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Saturday, Sep 22, 2007 at 18:13

Saturday, Sep 22, 2007 at 18:13
Phil, Umm, no I noted the presence of the Arrid Twin Charge unit and that's why I'm a tad confused about Roachie's Voltage numbers.

I tested mine today to verify these numbers, when I'm driving, my AGM's show they are being charged at 14.4 Volts, (surface voltage, shown at Solar Reg LCD screen and also the in-line Voltage meter) which is only charged by the Alternator, (no Solar) and this is a higher Voltage than is recieved by his Fullriver AGM @14.2v, even with the batteries side by side, and with the added benefit of the Arrid Twin Charge unit fitted.

My only logical reasoning is, I have replaced my small 55A alternator's regulator with a higher rated regulator (~$30 ) use 32mm sq battery cable, and different brand of AGM batteries.
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Saturday, Sep 22, 2007 at 19:02

Saturday, Sep 22, 2007 at 19:02
Arrid Twin Charge cranks up the voltage. Input can be as low as 8volts, but output is greater than alternator voltage (depending on the state of charge of the battery). Roachie's voltage numbers are what is expected in a running vehicle with a good charging system.
http://www.arrid.net.au/twin.html

Regarding your system:
#1 55A alternator may be undersized for multiple batteries. 14.4 volts is pretty standard for a regulator. I expect Roachie would have a standard 100+amp alternator. But the benefit of a 55amp is that you are unlikely to charge the AGMs too fast, so they are more likely to last long.
#2 Earthing of your AGM. Big thick earth back to the vehicle engine block (ie alternator) is needed for optimal charging.


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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Saturday, Sep 22, 2007 at 19:07

Saturday, Sep 22, 2007 at 19:07
And I forgot
#3 A fuse in the circuit between batteries is likely to add significant resistance to the circuit - particularly over time, with a bit of corrosion.Well crimped fusible links is what all vehicle manufacturers use, and quality isolator manufacturers like Rotronics provide with their kits.
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Follow Up By: disco1942 - Sunday, Sep 23, 2007 at 01:16

Sunday, Sep 23, 2007 at 01:16
Mainey

Those voltage figures in FollowUp 1 look correct to me. They are easily explained. The two batteries are isolated by the TwinCharge, so the battery voltages will only be dependent upon their respective charging sources.

The 14.2V at the terminals of the auxiliary battery is the output voltage of the TwinCharge recharger. It does not matter what type of construction that battery is, its terminal voltage will rise to the maximum output of the TwinCharge if you charge it long enough.

Likewise, the terminal voltage of the starting battery will be controlled by the output voltage of the alternator. 13.8V is about right for an alternator when the vehicle is warmed up and its temperature compensation is doing its job.

Mainey – your use of the term “surface charge” puzzles me. The voltages on the batteries terminals whilst they are charging are charging voltages, not surface charge. Surface charge only applies when there is no charge into or discharge out of a battery. The surface charge on a battery is what elevates the terminal voltage in the time between the removal of the the charge voltage and the final resting voltage being reached.

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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Sunday, Sep 23, 2007 at 02:03

Sunday, Sep 23, 2007 at 02:03
Phil,
now I'm more confused than ever, you say ""14.4 volts is pretty standard for a regulator"" so I don't understand why Roachie's charging system, even with the ""Arrid Twin Charge that cranks up the voltage - where output is GREATER than alternator voltage "" is actually still less Voltage than my almost stock system ??

#1, Batteries can't handle the full rated capacity of an Alternator, even a small 55 Amp like mine.

#2, The 2 x AGM's & the 'Original Equipment' Cranking battery (-) cable are all earthed with the same 'OE' bolt to the chassis.

#3, Yes, I use a Rotronics battery isolator.



Peter,
You say-> ""The 14.2V at the terminals of the auxiliary battery is the output voltage of the Twin Charge recharger. It does not matter what type of construction that battery is, its terminal voltage will rise to the MAXIMUM output of the Twin Charge if you charge it long enough.""

So the Arrid Twin Charge unit will increase the Voltage by 0.4 Volts ?
Which is still lower than my AGM's
question is: - why is the voltage lower ??

Tomorrow I will re-test the charging voltage of the Cranking (DC27 Deep Cycle) battery and the 2 x AGM's, however I (already) know the Rotronics isolator will have them all charging together in parallel, so they will ALL be the same @ 14.4 Volts as I have mentioned above.

Only their rested voltage will be different, 12.6v (DC) Cranker & 12.8v (DC) AGM's.
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Follow Up By: disco1942 - Sunday, Sep 23, 2007 at 03:09

Sunday, Sep 23, 2007 at 03:09
Mainey

Did you read the link Phil gave in FollowUp 5 ????? Here is the link in clickable form.

The Aarid TwinCharge recharger is not an isolator like your Rotronics. It is a device that you can put in line between your Rotronics and your auxiliary battery, that boosts the voltage from the alternator to a fixed level of 14.4V. The TwinCharge will produce full output voltage from inputs as low as 8 volts.

It is acknowledged by many that that an alternator will not charge a battery to 100% of its rated capacity. Deep cycle batteries in caravans do not heat up as the starting batteries under the bonnet do as the motor heats up. To fully charge a lead acid battery at room temperatures you need to apply a charging voltage of around 14.2 to 14.5V until the absorption charge is completed. As the starting battery heats up, temperature compensation built into the alternator suppresses its output voltage to the level that will not overcharge a warm battery. TwinChargers are used to keep the voltage high enough to maintain a sufficient voltage to charge your van's battery in a timely manner. The boosting also allows you to use cabling of a lighter gauge (and thus higher voltage drop) without affecting that charging output.

I hope this makes the situation a little clearer.

PeterD
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Monday, Sep 24, 2007 at 19:06

Monday, Sep 24, 2007 at 19:06
The Cranking battery when tested at 7.35am was 12.61 Volts.
The engine had not been started (battery charged) since about lunch time yesterday. So I 'spose that's a very well rested Cranking battery and only being 0.05 volts away from fully charged, LoL
The temp at 7.35am is COLD, I'm happy with the results considering the battery is 5 yo and originally served as a Deep Cycle storage battery running a fridge etc.. for it's first 4 years.

I believe the battery to be very well in excess of 70% charged, even after 18 or so hours and some minor things like clock sucking some power outa it.


Peter, yes it's an isolator !!
There is no Rotronics or even a Redarc required as a battery isolator.
Current will not flow between the two batteries unless the ignition is activated.

When activated, the Deep Cycle or Aux battery will only then receive it's charging current, which is direct from the pos (+) terminal of the Cranking battery, via the Arrid Twin Charge unit - if it's wired up as specified.

I installed one earlier this year for a client, from memory the fridge connection was running off a relay and not from the (+) Aux battery where it normally is, as I say from "memory" or lack of, grr.
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Reply By: Mainey (WA) - Saturday, Sep 22, 2007 at 18:26

Saturday, Sep 22, 2007 at 18:26
If a wet cell Cranking battery is 12.6 Volts, about 3 hours AFTER being driven, it's fully charged.

If a Solar system or battery charger is not connected, it must have been the Alternator :-)


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