Power Steering Fluid Replacement ?

Hi Glen
I change mine each year.
The oil gets a bit tired with the heat.
Ray

Likewise, I change mine according to the service schedule. It goes off colour a bit when it's been thre too lonmg, instead of a bright red colour it can look a bit browny/burnt red.

GB

Hi Glenn

I do it every year too better too better to be safe than sorry in the middle of know where and its easy to do also

Glenn

Hi Glenn,
Neither my Mav (GQ) nor my current GU specified any service period for the steering fluid - only for its level to be checked at intervals.
But the dealer still changed it when they reckoned it looked a bit old.
Gerry

You can get an in-line filter for the return line and it picks up any foreign particles etc.

this also stops wear on your pump and steering box.

AFAIK it does not need to be change each year - IMHO it is definitely overkill. Plus it is very difficult to change it properly - system need to be flushed couple of times (i.e. time and 5L of fluid). With my cars of known history I change it once per 5 years or when I see it gets discolored or dirty. With each "new second-hand" car I change all fluids immediately after purchase.
Cheers.

If it's a clear red (NOT BROWN colour) then it's fine.
ATF as in your power steering will look and smell "off" if it's had it's day.
I've known GQ's do 500k ++ without ever having Power steering fluid replaced.
Cheers

I change mine every time someone thinks that's where you top up the radiator overflow reservoir!

G'Day Glenn
In SWMBO's Commodore, It has a self cleaning system. I put it in the top and it then slowly comes out the bottom some where. Has worked fine for us the last few years!! LOL

Cheers Stefan

Thanks for the info everyone,

Looks like I just got another job to do.

Glenn.

Hi Glenn
You did not say what type of truck you own.
1; But the easiest way is to remove the lowest hose and let the fluid drain out.
2; Reconnect the hose and refill
DO NOT START THE ENGINE
3; Lift both front wheels off the ground
4; Now turn the steering slowly from lock to lock
5; Top up to the correct level Wheels straight
6; Repeat 4
7; Repeat 5
8; Repeat 4 and 5 until the level remains constant
9; Start engine and let it idle. Now repeat numbers 4,5 and 8. Do not hold the steering on full lock, just turn up to it then back off, you may have to do this a number of times.
10; Check for oil leaks
Some trucks are easier to do than others.
The low pressure hose is the best one to remove it is usually the one with hose clips the high pressure one is bolted on.
If you do remove the high pressure fitting make sure that you use new soft copper washers when refitting or they will leak.
Some brands use aluminium washers, I am not a fan of these
Good luck
Ray

I change & flush mine when it is not bright cherry red and use fully synthetic ATF same as the auto tranny and t/fer case. Don't forget there is a small strainer on the return side inside the reservoir which you need to reach in through the filler cap opening with long nose pliers to remove the small wire clip and then carefully, without crushing, remove the strainer and wash it in petrol. Personally I find it easier to drop off both the hoses from the reservoir and remove it from the vehicle, remove the strainer, wash both in petrol, blow dry and use plug or cap or just tape over the return port, fit the suction line, fill the reservoir and put the return line in an ice cream container and start and quickly stop the engine topping up the reservoir between starts and keep doing this until clean oil comes back via the return line then quickly refit the return line so not much oil is lost then top up to the full mark and forget about it for another 40000k's. Some people would say this is overkill but if you see the colour and crap that comes out when one is left too long and in any case a few litres of oil is cheaper than steering boxes and pumps. That oil is continually circulating all the time the engine is running and the pump and reservoir are both in fairly warm location.