Topping up a viscous fan - what effect?
Submitted: Friday, Jan 04, 2008 at 22:01
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geocacher (djcache)
Hi all,
Having problems when towing the camper with the Courier uphill on hot days.
I think I've narrowed it down to two potential sources. I've got two possible problems.
First I'll look at is cleaning all the bugs and crap out of the air con condenser. It needs to be done anyway, and I hadn't realised how bad it was.
The second is the viscous coupling which appears at the moment to be working in some manner approximating normal.
But if I wanted the fan to work harder - pull more air - and not slip when it's at the lower end of it's lockup threshold, would adding more fluid make it do that?
The symptoms I'm getting when towing the camper (1.4 tonne) on a really hot day are that when I hit a
hill - say the climb into
Omeo - I can hold speed (eg. 60kmh in 3rd) and even accelerate so I'm not at the limit of the gear, but after half of the climb the temp guage climbs toward hot rapidly.
Dropping back to say 40kmh and 2nd gear the temp guage drops rapidly. (Dropping speed staying in 3rd just ends up dropping out the bottom end of the rev range and it labours.)
In anything less then about 32°C its not a problem at all.
I've noticed it once before a few years ago not towing when I was heading to
Ceduna. Trying to hold 115-120kmh into a hot headwind did it, which I put down to effectively trying to drive it at 140kmh (counting the headwind) in hot weather. Dropping speed back to 100-105kmh fixed it then too.
I've got some of the Toyota viscous fan coupling fluid. I'm wondering if it's worth performing surgery on the fan.
Dave
Reply By: geocacher (djcache) - Sunday, Jan 06, 2008 at 21:56
Sunday, Jan 06, 2008 at 21:56
Update:
Pulled out the radiator today. Once the fan cowling was off I found a contributor to the problem.
At some point when I've been up to the windscreen in a river the fan blades have barely scraped the radiator, but enough to have nipped the fins over between the cores. It hasn't done any damage to the cores.
But it had reduced the available area of the radiator by 25-33% by estimate. And the area affected was the area that the fan would normally achieve greatest flow through.
I'm thinking that if the fan hub is working correctly and it looks to be, that the reduction in airflow is not so great that it affects normal operation, but that under load it causes it to overheat.
Thoughts?
I think I'll leave the fan hub and try the radiator - spent three hours today with a tool made out of a junior hacksaw blade straightening fins. More to do tomorrow, but at $320 for a new one I'm figuring on making a very boring $30 an hour at least.
No point fixing several things and not ending up knowing what the solution was.
Dave
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Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Jan 06, 2008 at 22:11
Sunday, Jan 06, 2008 at 22:11
Sounds like a fair plan Dave...... try it before you put more fluid in the viscous hub. The trouble with doing 2 or 3 or 4 things all at once is that, if it works, you don't really know which one of the "things" was the one that did the job.
Do you have a plan to stop the fan hitting the radiator in future? One thing I have heard of (but have not seen it done) is to stop the engine (before entering the water.... also allows the diffs to cool down), then tie some string/cord etc around one of the fan blades and tie it off against something under the bonnet to prevent the fan from turning. Obviously you need to get the cord off asap after completing the crossing. Has anybody tried this?
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Follow Up By: geocacher (djcache) - Monday, Jan 07, 2008 at 13:20
Monday, Jan 07, 2008 at 13:20
Hi Roachie,
i could avoid really deep puddles in future...
But that's no fun.
I've spoken to my mechanic today and decided to order a new radiator rather than stuff around.
Besides at 5 years old it's no spring chicken. It'll never be the same as new again. And with plastic top & bottom tanks exposed to heat I'm still a sceptic. I'd rather replace it now for a few hundred bucks than have it fail in March in the heat somewhere north of
Iron Knob on the way to Speed Week.
I will pull the water pump off while I've got the radiator out and have a gander at it and see what 130,000 km of electrolysis has done. I don't suspect it will show much if any responsibility for the problem.
As to the cord idea I'd not be attempting it. Just letting it cool down should be enough any way. Once it's "'relaxed" to the point where the cord will stop it the water should do the same thing anyway. I'd say this has occurred on a trip where I didn't take enough care. A blind on the bullbar would be the preferred solution in future.
I'd has at a guess that if you thermocoupled up a diff you'd notice bugger all cooling from a 5 minute stop before a
river crossing. That's why I extended the diff breathers.
The diff has a huge thermal mass, and steel to air has a poor temperature transfer coefficient. I would be very surprised if you got much more than a couple of degrees cooling in 10-15 minutes.
Dave
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