Toyota Parts Prices

Submitted: Monday, Jan 14, 2008 at 19:54
ThreadID: 53487 Views:4841 Replies:9 FollowUps:6
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Now that I'm into home servicing of a manual LC100 TD GXL, I would appreciate forumites' experience on sourcing of consumable parts - quoted today from a dealer in Adelaide - "All Toyota drive belts and hoses are priced the same, regardless of type / model" - this might be a good idea; I can't say..... but the pair of ribbed V belts (fan / alt.) are $45 the two - the flat AC belts are $45 ea. - radiator hoses top and bottom are $30 each - should I be able to do better via any of the mainstream parts suppliers ? Thanks folks ...... PS: Ryco air and oil filters bought at an Ag field day (Elmore - Vic) were about half Tojo prices - then again, they might be half as good :-o)
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Reply By: Member - Axle - Monday, Jan 14, 2008 at 20:10

Monday, Jan 14, 2008 at 20:10
Hi Darian, As far as belts go, i would not entertain the idea of anything else but genuine, cheaper brands are just not the same fit and will not last.( Speaking from experience with earthmoving gear, plus my own 4by), Filters are a worry to when you start to compare what microns they filter down to, but i think , Ryco, fleetguard, Cav, well known ones are all pretty good, Just my opinion.

Cheers Axle
AnswerID: 281625

Reply By: ben_gv3 - Monday, Jan 14, 2008 at 20:38

Monday, Jan 14, 2008 at 20:38
I would only consider buying genuine parts if they are cheaper then say reputable brands like Ryco, DBA etc.

I wouldn't consider eBay stuff for critical components, eg brake pads, but would for things like mirrors etc.
AnswerID: 281628

Reply By: TD100 - Monday, Jan 14, 2008 at 20:42

Monday, Jan 14, 2008 at 20:42

i agree with axle use genuine hoses and belts,they are marginally dearer but well worth the small extra change.i personally wouldnt use ryco filters but thats just me,had too many drain back problems with them.i have found the best aftermarket oily is the sakura.nice weight of paper,bypass valve and they dont drain back as the 1hd-fte filter is almost upside down.oil i use peak global diesel as it is designed for jap diesels.fuel filters the same brand or donaldson are good.air element you can only buy the V8 filter which is smaller than the TD one but i keep a gen one for travelling and the none gen ones get the local route.hope all this garble helps Paul
AnswerID: 281629

Follow Up By: Member - joc45 (WA) - Monday, Jan 14, 2008 at 23:46

Monday, Jan 14, 2008 at 23:46
I bought some Sakura oil filters for my Patrol and (fortunately) before installing them found some small shards of metal inside the filter (on the outlet side) which could have found their way into the engine.
Was able to pry them off, but am wary about buying them again.
FollowupID: 545995

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Monday, Jan 14, 2008 at 22:46

Monday, Jan 14, 2008 at 22:46
Gday Darian,
Great to see - I also do all my own servicing on my 1HDFTE.
IMO, you have to have a very good reason to choose aftermarket parts over genuine. I've been bitten too many times with aftermarket hoses that don't quite fit or belts that squeal etc etc

Belts - Toyota supply a matched pair - just buy the alternator belts, put them on at 100,000k and carry the old ones as spares. Don't worry about the air cond belt - if it were to bust, no big deal.
Hoses: Yep, same deal - $30 each is a bargain.
Brake Fluid: ONLY ever use the Toyota DOT3 fluid. - $9 a bottle.
Coolant: ONLY ever use the Toyota Red Coolant _ not much dearer than aftermarket.
Engine Oil: Hmmmm - I use the 15W40 Gulf Western CI-4 oil from Adelaide Truck and 4wd Spares on Regency Road - costs $75 for 20 litres. But I wonder whether I should use a 10W30 CF oil, given that I only use the vehicle in Winter.
Oil Filters: I buy a pack of 10 Genuine Toyota Filters at $27.50 each - still have 6 in the shed. theres a seller on Ebay that offers that deal.
Fuel Filter: Costs $38 from Toyota with a discount, so I prefer genuine.
Air Filter: I only use Toyota - they are washable in water.
Gearbox Oil: If yours is manual, theres only one choice for nice gear changes: Castrol VMX-M - SuperCheap stock it.
Transfer Case: VMX-M or any other 75/90
Diff Oils: Put LS90 in both front and rear diffs.
I buy the oils at the 20% off sales.
Wheel bearings: I use the genuine seals, and Castrol HTB grease but might change to the Valvoline EP.
Black Moly grease in the steering and Universals and Silding Yokes.
And I guess you'll want to adjust the valve clearances - now thats a bugger of a job with the bridge arrangement on the valves, but it all works out OK if you take your time.

I have noticed that CMI in town offer reasonable prices. Some dealers offer a bit of a discount for 4wdclub members.

If you want to use aftermarket filters, the Terrain Tamer stuff from Adelaide truck and 4wd Spares is good quality, and nice price.

have Fun
AnswerID: 281661

Follow Up By: MEMBER - Darian (SA) - Tuesday, Jan 15, 2008 at 11:04

Tuesday, Jan 15, 2008 at 11:04
All noted Phil, plus the member message.
Thanks for the comprehensive reply........... I should have added that my home servicing is limited mainly to changing all consumables - while I have done some mechanical repair in the past, I don't trust myself with such work on a vehicle that needs to take me outback.... and back ! (I can be a danger to shipping at times, when it comes to electricals and mechanicals). I did get the Warn 9000 out, into bits and back in working the other week - happy to tackle such 'peripherals', including radio installs etc. I have found a local small pro repairer that I trust to do the tricky bits.
FollowupID: 546047

Reply By: Truckster (Vic) - Monday, Jan 14, 2008 at 22:52

Monday, Jan 14, 2008 at 22:52
I don't see those prices as bad really.

filters, buy them in bulk and get a much better price, say 10 oil and 10 air at one time. I know local Nissan dealer does MUCH better prices for these orders.
AnswerID: 281662

Reply By: Member - Bucky (VIC) - Tuesday, Jan 15, 2008 at 07:06

Tuesday, Jan 15, 2008 at 07:06
I am sure that there is a mob in Murray Bridge, that have internet access, and do parts real good ...

Buggered if I can think of there mane though,,,

other members & Visitors ,,, HELP Please !

AnswerID: 281687

Reply By: MEMBER - Darian (SA) - Tuesday, Jan 15, 2008 at 11:07

Tuesday, Jan 15, 2008 at 11:07
Thanks for those tips folks - noted - stocking up on spares for the next trip is a way off yet - I'll check out the suggested suppliers and make some plans !
AnswerID: 281736

Reply By: KSV. - Tuesday, Jan 15, 2008 at 12:07

Tuesday, Jan 15, 2008 at 12:07
I am trying to fit cheaper mainstream parts whenever possible. But I am using only reputable resellers and reputable brands. Plus some OEM parts in reality not as good as aftermarket (DBA rotors is good example – they much thicker then OEM ones) and also some parts never manufactures by Toyota, but rather re-baget ones. For example if I not mistaken Toyota uses Exedy (Diakin) clutches. So why should I bother with “genuine” part if I can get “super genuine” one for cheaper price?

But again all depends. For example when I was changing timing belt, I was so impressed with condition of used Toyota belt, that I happily paid $20 more for Toyota belt instead of Burson one. And of course I would not even thing about using substituted belt tension roller or valve shims.

AnswerID: 281744

Follow Up By: Pete and Lez - Tuesday, Jan 15, 2008 at 20:04

Tuesday, Jan 15, 2008 at 20:04
Howdy KSV, just wondering why a thicker rotor is better than a standard one. Could be different grades of steel or composite materials. Thicker rotors would also hold more heat making brakes less efficient.
Cheers Peter
FollowupID: 546165

Follow Up By: KSV. - Wednesday, Jan 16, 2008 at 08:48

Wednesday, Jan 16, 2008 at 08:48
Thicker means stronger and last longer. DBA rotors featuring special ventilation pattern, not just straight channels and this make cooling way more efficient. And extra mass actually help keep everything cooler, because it takes more ”bites” to heat up to dangerous temperature. Unless, of course, you driving automatic petrol long downhill with continuous brake application. Well, then get manual diesel instead.

FollowupID: 546291

Follow Up By: Pete and Lez - Wednesday, Jan 16, 2008 at 17:26

Wednesday, Jan 16, 2008 at 17:26
I have manual diesel, thanks for explanation.
Cheers Peter
FollowupID: 546383

Reply By: Robnicko - Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 11:38

Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 11:38
I use genuine parts for everything on my 80 series except for brake pads. I have found the Bosch Brake pads to be much better in my opinion. They seem to perform just as well if not better, produce less dust and last alot longer. I have had them in my cruiser now for over 3 years (approx 50000k) and they still have a while to go before the low brake pad scraper kicks in. But that could be my driving style.
When I had to replace the front uni's, Toyota genuine ones were actually cheaper than Repco ones.

AnswerID: 282250

Follow Up By: Pete and Lez - Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 13:09

Friday, Jan 18, 2008 at 13:09
Hi Darian, Changed the pads on my 100s at 115000km, still had meat on them, is your 80s manual or diesel? Mine is diesel.
Cheers Peter
FollowupID: 546757

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