Triple Bypass in Radiators
Submitted: Tuesday, Jun 10, 2003 at 14:17
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gary
Has any one out there had a triple bypass put in their radiator and how effective were the results, Especially when driving under 20kmph on overgrown tracks in hot desert conditions
Thanks
Reply By: awill4x4 - Tuesday, Jun 10, 2003 at 23:00
Tuesday, Jun 10, 2003 at 23:00
Gary, I think I know the company you are talking about. (Des##t Coo##ers)
The owner has had a very good marketing campaign going particularly in the street rod industry.
Essentially what happens is it slows the rate of water flowing through your radiator as it has to travel further. The theory being that because it is exposed to ambient air for a longer period it cools down more. This is true, "up to a point".
What they don't tell you is that because the water stays in your radiator longer, it also stays in your engine longer so in fact the water enters your radiator at a higher temp than it would normally and your thermostat stays open for longer periods.
In my eyes, it's a snake oil pitch. If you want better cooling increase your volume and better yet get an aluminium radiator. They are far more efficient than brass/copper ones.
Regards Andrew.
ps here's a link to the custom one I built for my GQ Patrol automatic. It uses the same core as that used by most of the supercars. (Skaife, Ambrose, Weel etc)
I'm using 2 auto trans coolers in the tanks and an auxialliary one as
well. The capacity is approx twice that of a standard Patrol radiator.
http://board.performanceforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=3295&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500
AnswerID:
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Reply By: -OzyGuy- - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2003 at 01:11
Wednesday, Jun 11, 2003 at 01:11
From what I do know of the workings of radiators, the water is forced into the radiator in only one direction.. by the water pump.
In the radiator it is forced through the vertical 'pipes' to the opposite end, it is cooled only by the passage of air accross the radiator coils connected to these 'vertical pipes' ...
therefore, if you decrease the amount of the 'coils' that are exposed to the cooling air then I find it hard to believe that it will cool faster or cooler as the water has to travel again through the engine block to get back to the radiator...
I believe the larger the exposed area of the radiator coils the better it will cool, to the point that the thermostat does close if the water is too cool before it re-enters
the block.
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Reply By: -OzyGuy- - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2003 at 01:24
Wednesday, Jun 11, 2003 at 01:24
From what I do know of the workings of radiators, the water is forced into the radiator ---> in only one direction ---> by the water pump, at the preasure and speed of the water pump, it is circulated through the radiator under preasure and can't 'wait' in the radiator to cool before returning to the engine block.
In the radiator it is forced through the vertical 'pipes' to the opposite end,
it is cooled only by the passage of air accross the radiator coils connected to these 'vertical pipes' ...
therefore, if you decrease the amount of the 'coils' that are exposed to the cooling air, I find it hard to believe that it will cool faster or cooler as the water has to once again travel again through the engine block to get back to the radiator...
I believe the larger the exposed area of the radiator coils the better it will cool, to the point that the thermostat does close if the water is too cool before it re-enters
the block.
Either I don't understand the idea... or it is as has been stated a phurphy.
AnswerID:
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Reply By: Member - Gordon- Wednesday, Jun 11, 2003 at 14:12
Wednesday, Jun 11, 2003 at 14:12
Well guys, what we are talking about here is a 3 pass radiator. I have just had my 3 core radiator(Patrol) done and I can assure you that it does have a better cooling affect.You are correct, the flow has more resistance in the radiator as the pump is still trying to pump the same amount of water through 1/3 of the radiator at any one time, that is, 3 passes through the air flow. Yes the water would be slower passing through the engine,(not by much) this would be benificial as it has more time to pick up heat from the engine. I have only done 1 trip to
Brisbane and back (1200km) and I immediately noticed when the radiator fan cut in, the temp gauge was reading lower than before, therefore, the water temp.at the temp. sender was lower than the middle or second pass through the radiator.
Before I had this done, at 105/110km. the temp would rise a little causing the radiator fan to cut in and bring the temp. back down again, now I can sit on that speed and the temp gauge does not move. Remember the faster you go ,more revs, faster the water flows through the radiator,les time in the air stream for cooling.
This operation to the radiator cost $150, what does Alum. cores etc. that super cars use cost.
Hope this throws some light on the subject.
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