pajero noisy timing belt

Sounds too tight or it is touching somewhere.

You should be able to get a 45deg twist out if the belt.

Regards

Derek.

Zacc.
Interesting, I have never had the timing belt make a noise. Could it be that the alternator bottom bolt is loose? Or the air con compressor or power steer pump are not mounted firmly. Eric

Hi Zacc.
I recently purchased a Haynes Repair Manual for NM/NP pajero. There is a very detailed section onrefitting a timing belt.Perhaps you could look up the info on the net.
Hope this helps.
Vince

If you have a timing belt making audible noise then it is way too tight.
Every manufacturer has rigid specification on belt tension, timing belts use the teeth for drive, not like a conventional vee belt.
An over tight belt is not going to last too long, and when it breaks quite a few other things are going to exit with it.
furph

wow super fast reply thanx guys . one thing i have noticed when inspecting the belt to try find out what the noise is that it seems to be a bit concave , i mean that the middle dips inwards this is looking at the flat side . is this normal?

zacc

Once you have the new belt in place let the spring on the tensioner take up the slack and tighten the 12mm bolt. Then temporarily fit the balancer bolt and rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees. Re-check timing marks and loosen off the 12mm bolt again just to ensure the correct tension is applied to the belt.

I also strongly advise to replace the balancer bolt with a genuine item from Mitsubishi, as these have a habit of breaking when re-used, they are not expensive.

Cheers
Chris

it is an nm so they do not use the spring it uses a hydralic tensioner . you have tom tighten to specs and then release the tensioner.

Done one today-remove the hyd tensioner and in a vice push the ram back into the body and lock it there through the hole(one in the body and ram) re fit hyd tensioner.Get an old socket and weld two pins onto it so they will fit into the two holes on the idler/tensioner pulley that is off centre.Set a smll torque wrench to 25 inch pounds(50inch pounds for twin over head cam) and wind the idler/tensioner pulley up until the wrench clicks off.Lock the idler/tensioner pulley here.Release the pin from the hyd tensioner.Wind it over a couple of times to check timing and you are all done

thanx . did the belt seem tight, or a bit on the loose side?

The easiest and best way to get the pre tension correct on these belts is have the engine at tdc (top dead centre) load the tensioner pulley with a pair of cir clip pliers until the pin in the hydraulic tensioner is loose and easily removable, (but leave it in) then lock the tensioner bolt off making sure the pre load on the pulley remains the same by holding with the cir clip pliers. Now rotate the engine two turns of the crank and leave sit for a couple of minutes if the pin is still loose and able too be put in and out the job is all good, if not repeat until this is the result.
This is the method I have used over the years to do more than 30 of these belts with out a problem.
Also pay attention to any leaks from the hydraulic tensioner and replace if so.

this is a very helpfull forum i will retry tomorrow and see the end result . thank you for all your replys it is very much appreciated.

can you guys tell me what brand of belts did you use . the one i have put on is a gates.

i meant dayco

ok i had it apart again, the noise is coming from the tensioner pully . this pully is brand new and i took it off and checked it out , smooth as . is it possible that the belt could be creating the noise as it runs over the pully. i have noticed that the belt on the smooth side is not realy smoothe it has slight rigdes matching the teeth on the other side . could the belt be faulty?