1HZ + DTS Turbo overheating under load

Submitted: Sunday, Feb 03, 2008 at 10:05
ThreadID: 54172 Views:13291 Replies:8 FollowUps:5
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Gday all, temp will be fine on the highway unless it is a 40+ degree day or if I load it up going up a hill the temp gauge will rise rather quickly. Aparently is is not uncommon for this to happen when you turbo a IHZ. I have a complete cooling system part replacement bar the water pump. Do I need to go for a full ally radiator or a steel brass replacement one I have? (CURRENTLY HAVE THE FACTORY ALLY IN THE VEHICLE)I dont want to spend the $1500 odd on the ally to find it will not work. I have also been turned away by the intercooler set up.

Cheers
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Reply By: Scott C (QLD) - Sunday, Feb 03, 2008 at 10:53

Sunday, Feb 03, 2008 at 10:53
Hi hotfishez,

The same thing happens with mine, temp gauge sits around half but as soon as I hit a decent hill towing the camper the gauge quickly moves toward the red, as soon as I reach the rise and back off the gauge drops as quick as it went up.

I will be interest to see the feedback.

Regards Scott
AnswerID: 285285

Reply By: Member - 120scruiser (NSW) - Sunday, Feb 03, 2008 at 11:12

Sunday, Feb 03, 2008 at 11:12
guys you need to install an EGT guage and set your fuel via combustion temps. It sounds as though there is too much fuel going in. Cut the fuel back on the pump by half of a flat on the screw head and see how you go.
With the 1hz and an egt you shouldn't go over 550 degrees under load flat to the boards for two minutes. It the temp rises more than this there is too much fuel going in.
I have turboed many 1hz engines and set the fuel by egt and not one has over heated.
I hope this helps
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AnswerID: 285289

Reply By: Gone Bush (WA) - Sunday, Feb 03, 2008 at 11:33

Sunday, Feb 03, 2008 at 11:33
Same thing used to happen on my 80 series.

I replaced most of the cooling system incl radiator with no change until it was pointed out to me that on long slow inclines towing my camper the bottom radiator hose was sucking itself thin because of its age (soft).

I replaced that and filled the viscous hub with oil (they are underfilled out of the factory) and no problems anymore.

Hope this helps.

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AnswerID: 285297

Reply By: 2517 - Sunday, Feb 03, 2008 at 14:48

Sunday, Feb 03, 2008 at 14:48
Hi the best way to fix the problem is to fit a new radiator from Aussiedesertcooler.com.au ,there are about $550 landed in Darwin.Being there done that.
AnswerID: 285347

Reply By: Steve from Top End Explorer Tours - Sunday, Feb 03, 2008 at 14:53

Sunday, Feb 03, 2008 at 14:53
Try the viscus hub on your fan first, 9 times out of 10 this is the problem, this is cheap to fix.

Cheers Steve.
AnswerID: 285350

Reply By: Skinnydog - Sunday, Feb 03, 2008 at 20:27

Sunday, Feb 03, 2008 at 20:27
I have a Standard 100 series with after market turbo & glycol intercooler with pyrometer/egt meter. Before & after turbo install my air con would cut out due to over temp however both water temp & egt gauges were nowhere near critical levels. This would only happen fully loaded or on extreme Pilbara days. Then I had a run in with a failed alternator belt which was barely 12 months old and took out all belts ,top hose & the radiator,yes I was very unlucky. The silver lining at the end of this was I ended up ordering an ally radiator from PWR in QLD which was still only a 2core but was twice the thickness of the factory ally. The outcome has been better than I thought possible,the water temp has not even looked like getting to half & I have dropped 30-40 degrees on the egt, if you want further proof we recently were lucky enough to have 50+ degrees a few weeks ago so I took the opportunity to give it a flogging to really test it out & niether I or the rig broke out in a sweat.
My recomendation is to spend $1000 and fix the problem once & for all.
Hope this helps
AnswerID: 285421

Follow Up By: hotfishez - Monday, Feb 04, 2008 at 15:55

Monday, Feb 04, 2008 at 15:55
Changed out the fan clutch and gave it a run, didnt get hot so will drop a 1000ltr tub in the trailer, that will let me know if it is fixed or not. Getting the PWR is the my next move if it still gets hot.
I am in the Pilbara myself so the ideal contitions to know if it is fixed or not, at least we are past the hottest days.
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FollowupID: 550510

Reply By: Member - Frank (QLD) - Tuesday, Feb 05, 2008 at 05:11

Tuesday, Feb 05, 2008 at 05:11
I guarantee you - there is a very good chance that all you need to do it top up the oil in your fan clutch...

Get the oil from a Toyota Dealer...

I's an easy job - I can give you step by step instructions with photo's if you want to know how to do it....

The Genuine Toyota Blue Fan Clutch which is the current OEM replacement comes with too little oil - this is the fix.

One Tube is normaly enough - sometimes they are so low they need two tubes. There is 18mils per tube.

Try one tube first - if no improvement - go with two.

AnswerID: 285706

Follow Up By: Noisy Mango - Wednesday, Feb 06, 2008 at 09:44

Wednesday, Feb 06, 2008 at 09:44
Hi Frank,
We have the same problem with our troopy & would like to top up the oil - would you mind providing the step by step instructions?
Thanks, Wayne.
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FollowupID: 550908

Follow Up By: Member - Frank (QLD) - Thursday, Feb 07, 2008 at 00:13

Thursday, Feb 07, 2008 at 00:13
Hi there Wayne,

I have written full instructions with photo's here:

How To top up your Toyota Fan Clutch oil and do the Blue Fan Clutch MOD

I hope this helps
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FollowupID: 551111

Follow Up By: Noisy Mango - Thursday, Feb 07, 2008 at 23:07

Thursday, Feb 07, 2008 at 23:07
Hi Frank,
Thanks for your extremely detailed instructions - will have a go at refilling on the weekend. Dont think I will have any problems after reading your notes.
Thanks again!
Regards, Wayne.
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FollowupID: 551339

Reply By: Wayne (NSW) - Tuesday, Feb 05, 2008 at 17:43

Tuesday, Feb 05, 2008 at 17:43
All of the overheating fixes will and do work, but you have to ask why is the motor running hot under load.

If the motor was running hot all the time, the fixes above would be the first to do but in this case the motor gets hot under load.

What causes a motor to get hot under load and cools quick once the load is taken away. Too much fuel. Under load the motor is over fueled and gets hot, back of the pedal and the motor cools.

As Scott has said install a EGT gauge and set the fuel to the gauge.

Fix the cause of the problem, and not just the problem.

Wayne
AnswerID: 285792

Follow Up By: Member - Frank (QLD) - Thursday, Feb 07, 2008 at 02:16

Thursday, Feb 07, 2008 at 02:16
Wayne, you could be right in some instances when referring to deisels - I don't disagree, however this seems to be fairly common on petrol's as well when they get about 160,000k's on them - the fan clutches begin to become less efficient - which I am told is due to the oil breaking down in them. This advice came from Toyota
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FollowupID: 551125

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