Spare parts prices.... Again..

The Alternator/Aircon/Powersteer/Waterpump drive belt. One of those really long all-in-one serpentine belts.

Thanks John, too early in the week for my poor brain.

I had to get the alternator belts replaced (and got the fan belt replaced at the same time) and was pleasantly surpirsed at the price difference between mitsubishi and non-mitsubishi (note the lack of word "genuine" as this word seems to be rather abused in some cases)

Andrew

If you ever break one of your plastic tail/stop/indicator light lenses make sure you have a loose 450 bucks laying around for genuine Itsi-bishi part. (bloody stump) :-((
Fred.

Tell me about it... i had one broken t/l and fortunately i had a contact who could get them for heaps cheaper....through the local mitsubishi dealership. There is a huge markup somewhere.

Andrew

Try a Vehicle Speed Sensor for Jackaroo with TOD.

Holden price $550, but no longer available.

Rockauto price, $US65.00, in stock, landed cost $AU120.00.

Or a Thermo fan sensor for Mazda 121

Mazda price $133.00, in stock

Rockauto price, $US21.00, landed cost $AU25, (freight combined with the Jackaroo sensor)

Now it's all very well to go on about a "genuine" part, but that advice would be pretty bloody useless for my Jackaroo situation, and I'll take my chances with the Fan sensor for a $100 plus saving.

I replaced my Jackaroo serpentine belt at 70,000ks with a Non-genuine part. The "poorer quality" part has now lasted 80,000ks, and shows no fault on inspection, whereas the original was visibly deteriorating.

So I guess the non-genuine parts are not the same quality as the OEM / Geniune parts, they can be better.

I'd rather pay the RACV the extra $100 for Total Care Service, than pay a dealer an extra $100 for a part and hope they come and get me when I break down.

You're right, I have no way of knowing if this belt is the samequality as an OEM unit. I also have no way of knowing if it's any BETTER than the OEM unit. Just know I can buy three of these for one of those ;-)

Car is not under warranty so no problems there.

Some parts I have no problems paying for the genuine article (engine or transmission parts for example) but hoses, belts, brake pads, even wiper blades I get a bit toey about

Well that is a pretty stupid way to answer....if the part was not avaliable new genuiun what other option did you have?

Map sensor for a 97 F250, Trade here $671.00+ and from a Ford dealer in Texas $109.00 landed here.

RACV don't carry ever part either!

There atr proberly 1000's pf people who have horror stories about aftermarket part and the same can be said for genuiun but atleast you have backup and surport.

I would not get to stressed about it.

Just what is needed, a child response to an attempted adult discussion.

Who said anything about RACV carrying parts? I know they don't. But when you have Total Care, they get you home, including your trailer or caravan. Then you can decide whether to employ a mechanic to fix it, or go to the stealer.

Backup and support from a dealer just because you paid their extortion fee, I'd like to see that.

Olcoolone,

while I agree with the general thrust of your argument, as a former Pajero owner (from new), I have to disagree with...

"Example:- a radiator hose has a small leak the size of a pin and you get stuck 200k from the nearest town the chances are Mitsubishi would more then likely send someone out to tow or repair the vehicle.....try that with Repco."

Mitsubishi, in my experience, have been the most difficult company I have ever had to deal with for any maintenance issues. Very few things get fixed under warranty by Mitsubishi without first having to undergo a "blame game" scenario whereby they try to abrogate any responsibility on their behalf.

In my case, amongst many issues I had with them, the catch that holds the bonnet closed simply broke off. At the time I was doing 100Km/hour and the bonnet flew open, smashed the windscreen and caved the roof in. The vehicle was just 35,500 Km old. (The guy I was working with had his catch break off the next day, at 35,100Km on the clock! As it happens our vehicles were just 100 apart on the production line.)

I was about 450 Km from home and I limped to a roadhouse about 350 Km from home and contacted Mitsubishi. They told me to get the car to them and then they would look at rectifying the problem. In this incident I could well have been killed and they still insisted that I had to get the vehicle to them. I don't like your chances of getting a lift for a pin prick hole in a radiator hose!

By the way, after looking at my vehicle, Mistubishi then asked me a series of questions about the type of driving I did, where I travelled and what the terrain was like. You would think that they were trying to ascertain why the bonnet latch broke off, but no, it later transpired that they were looking for an angle to get out of paying for the repairs. They actually stated that the vehicle was not built for the purpose for which I had purchased it!

Maybe Toyota, definitely Land Rover and more expensive makes of vehicle would behave in the way that you suggest, but certainly not Mitsubishi.

Cheers,

Russ.

Yes went straight on. Plenty of travel left in the tensioner, which I believe you can't adjust anyway... I recently replaced one of the idler pulleys (genuine article $105.... :-(( ) as the bearing was a bit noisy. Would shut up after spraying with lube but noise would come back after a few days. Maybe that's your problem?

The noise seams to come from top left pulley which is the spring loaded tensioner pulley. I have had it off the motor and put some oil into the bearing. It seams in good condition. Is this the one that you repleced.

No, the one I replaced was the next one along the top.

Willem, Toyota have all there Fan/V belts out for $43.00, Radiator hoses $29.23, Other cooling system hoses $15.38.

They have lowered alot of there parts 40%.

Well the way they treat their customers its no wonder they are folding!i bought a brand new L300 van,had it serviced by the local stealer-1st mistake.it developed a bad vibration at 40000k,took it in,no cant find anything,sure its in the rear somewhere,no definitly nothing.short time later a bearing noise from the rear.took it back-response----ohh bit of a noisy diff centre,leave it and see how it goes.almost had enough by this stage.little while later on tow truck to dealer with buggered diff centre,they put a second hand centre in it!gave it back to me,headed off home it still had that bad vibration in it,getting worse by the minute,5min from home and bang-crash-clunk-stop.1 folded in half tailshaft and broken yolk on shaft.it had been a buggered uni on the rear causing the vibe and then proceeded to flog out the pinion bearing in the diff,all this $hit for a lousy uni!!!!!never again Mr Bitsu bleep i never again.cheers Paul