3 way fridge problems
Submitted: Thursday, Feb 14, 2008 at 13:23
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Arielle
Hi everyone, I have been having problems with my 3 way fridge in my Jayco Swan. First it stopped working on 12volt on the way back from a trip, then a few months after that it stopped working on 240 volts. I runs fine on gas so the gas hasn't escaped. I asked my local Jayco dealer what he thought it might be and he said it sounded like the elements needed replacing. I got my Father, who is a retired electrician, to have a look at it and he said that there was still current going through the elements. He had a look at the selector switch at he thinks that it may be the culprit. We couldn't investigate further without pulling the entire fridge out which I wouldn't have a clue how to do.
I just wanted to know if anyone else has had this problem occur and what sort of costs I may be looking at to get it fixed. The fridge is about 20 years old but in excellent condition otherwise.
Cheers!
Reply By: Member - DAZA (QLD) - Thursday, Feb 14, 2008 at 15:23
Thursday, Feb 14, 2008 at 15:23
Hi ALL
Eighteen months ago, our 26year old Engel Fridge stopped, took it
to the local fridgie, he charged $30-00 to work out what was wrong,
said it was the compressor, $400-00 please, So I thought thats
better than paying $1200-00 for a new one, so he fixed it, We
claimed insurance, and only payed $100-00 excess, we took it
home
tried it out for a week, was running good, switched it off and left it
for two months, went to use it and it wouldnt work. I took it back
and he said the compressor was stuffed, I said how about the warranty, he honoured the warranty with out any problems, while I
was in his
shop I noticed that he sold new Engles, so I bought a 40
litre fridge for $1100-00 he threw in a Protective Cover and Fridge
Slide, that man has got my business for life
Cheers
Daza.
AnswerID:
287456
Reply By: Mike Harding - Friday, Feb 15, 2008 at 08:23
Friday, Feb 15, 2008 at 08:23
Ask your father to do two resistance tests by applying an ohm meter to the 12V DC supply wires and the 240V active and neutral wires. This
test will also give you an indication of the condition of the selector switch.
If the switch and the elements are working properly they should read around the following:
12V = 1R
240V = 380R
If the reading for either is open circuit then, probably, the element has failed (new element about $80 for my Chescold) if the reading is above about 3R for the 12V or above about 450R for the 240V then it's probably either a corroded switch or a poor connection in the wiring. Try to clean the switch (with all power turned off) by switching it back and
forth 20 or 30 times. If possible use an aerosol "switch cleaner" (Dick Smith/Jaycar) and spray that into the switch - ensure ALL power is removed first.
Mike Harding
AnswerID:
287569