Rust treatment

I need to do some work on my camper trailer as it got badly stone blasted on our last trip and now has a lot of surface rust.

In general, whats the best for this type of situation, applying a rust converter or rubbing the rust off and applying cold gal?

I see all cold gal products state specifically not to use a rust converter prior to application of the cold gal, which is a bit of a bugger as applying both would seem to be the best of both worlds.
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Reply By: Member -Signman - Thursday, Feb 21, 2008 at 12:18

Thursday, Feb 21, 2008 at 12:18
If you use a rust converter- ensure the residue is totally washed and cleaned off before applying anything over it...
AnswerID: 288607

Reply By: Member - Mike DID - Thursday, Feb 21, 2008 at 13:14

Thursday, Feb 21, 2008 at 13:14
The cold-galvanising ONLY works if it's in direct contact with the steel.

To be effective you must coat the cold-gal with a primer designed to go on bare metal (which the zinc is) or bituminous paint.

Our gutter stays wet for long periods due to leaf litter collecting in it and a few patches had started to rust because the zinc had worn away. I wire-brushed to bright steel, painted with cold-galvanising, then painted with bituminous paint. Ten years later that gutter is still going strong !
AnswerID: 288615

Reply By: Moose - Thursday, Feb 21, 2008 at 14:09

Thursday, Feb 21, 2008 at 14:09
Just keep travelling and the stone blasting keeps the rust at bay:-)
AnswerID: 288619

Reply By: Member - bungarra (WA) - Thursday, Feb 21, 2008 at 14:43

Thursday, Feb 21, 2008 at 14:43
Galmet make a product that is a rust converter.

You then use another Galmet product that paints over that skin the rust converter created. To the layman afterwards it looks as though it was coated with coldgalv.

We use it in sheds with a high corrosive atmosphere and just finished doing so to some trusses. So far it seems an excellent product.

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AnswerID: 288624

Reply By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Thursday, Feb 21, 2008 at 16:54

Thursday, Feb 21, 2008 at 16:54
Rust has roots. It can tunnel in a little as well as along the surface. Thats one of the reasons a modern rust converter is worth while as it kills and then encapsulates the rust all in one coat. I use a Turgo product called Black Guard, goes on white, gets a bluish tinge then drys black - hard as !
AnswerID: 288634

Reply By: Trekkie (Member - WA) - Thursday, Feb 21, 2008 at 23:30

Thursday, Feb 21, 2008 at 23:30
I have found that often the red dust gets ito all the nooks and crannies and looks like there is more rust than actually exists. I have used Ranex for years without any detriment. When applied it almost makes things look like new. I always dilute it quite a bit. I have used a spray bottle or small paint brush and when the rust has disappeared I use my hi pressure cleaner to remove all the surplus.

Check it on the Internet - You can get it at Bunnings


Ranex Rustbuster converts rust from a detrimental oxide to a phosphate of iron, thus prolonging the life of the metal and paint.

Features & Benefits:

•Penetrates deep to convert and chemically destroy rust
•Removes surface rust, cleans and brightend polished surfaces
•Removes ugly rust and bore water stains
•Cleans boats, polishes stainless steel fittings


250ml, 500ml, 1L, 4L, 20L

Download Datasheet:

DS Ranex Rustbuster (76 kb)

AnswerID: 288748

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