turbo oil return line
Submitted: Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 16:46
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gilghana
Hoping for some
feedback for comparison if possible... The 1HZ turbo kit I am in the process of fitting actually taps the oil return line into
the block, but as I don't have a 90 degree drill and I am also a bit wary that flushing the engine will catch all the shavings I was proposing to tap it into the sump (as high as possible and obviously making sure it wont foul the front prop shaft!). HZJ78 troopy. Now I have dropped the sump but before I go further what do people reckon and how do other kits do it? Grateful for some comparison if possible,
TIA, Gil
Reply By: howesy - Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 17:30
Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 17:30
I have the after market DTS setup on
mine. I just went out and had a look and theysimply welded a tube right up the top of the sump.
AnswerID:
289323
Reply By: Member - Luke (SA) - Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 18:05
Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 18:05
When I fitted the turbo to my Patrol I welded a tube in the top of the sump. As easy as that really if you are hadny with a welder
Hope this helps
Cheers Luke
AnswerID:
289332
Reply By: Member - Hughesy (NSW) - Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 19:05
Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 19:05
Hi, I fitted a Turbo Glide kit to my 1HZ about 5 months ago. The return goes into the sump. I don't have the instructions and aint near
home to have a look but it was positioned something like 6.5 bolts back from the front corner of the sump and 25mm down from the top. If you get it wrong I thing you'll hit a journal. For my kit you just drilled a (I think 10mm) hole and then with a hammer knock a cone shaped tool in to flare the hole in and then tap it out with a 3/8 tappered thread. Then just screw in the fitting provided with some sealant. It seemed dodgey at the time but it worked
well and hasn't leaked at all. The manufacturer said they don't even drain the oil - but I did to be on the safe side.
Now drilling into
the block is another thing - you want to make sure you get that right!!!
AnswerID:
289346
Follow Up By: stefan P (Penrith NSW) - Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 19:39
Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 19:39
"Now drilling into
the block is another thing - you want to make sure you get that right!!!"
BLOODY oath!!
I would go the sump me thinks......cheaper to fix if ya fluff it!!!
Cheers Stefan
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Follow Up By: Member - Luke (SA) - Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 20:28
Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 20:28
DEFINATELY!!!!!!!!!!!
On the 4.2 Patrols there is a lug casting on the side of
the block where the oil tube screws into on the factory turbo engines. I thought about drilling and tapping that out as
well but thought I'd better not.
When you take the sump off you can clean out the sludge (if any) that diesels are thought to build up.
Cheers Luke
FollowupID:
554651
Reply By: Member - DOZER- Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 19:20
Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 19:20
Safari kits had a 3/8 rod, with a pointed end, and 4 flats ground to that point. You hammered this into the sunp, the 4 flaps that bent back, took the threads of the tap...it was done in situ....
Andrew
AnswerID:
289349
Reply By: gilghana - Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 22:58
Monday, Feb 25, 2008 at 22:58
Thanks guys! Yeah there was no way I was going to drill
the block, so that was why I removed the sump - bugger of a job though. Anyway it's off now and I am drilling and taping. Sump was nice and clean as motor only has about 8,000kms on it.
Gil
AnswerID:
289393