200 Series / 100 Series Dual Battery

Hi Jeff R
Yes you can split them. I just had mine done, left the factory battery (pax side) as main battery, and replaced drivers side with an 80amp battery with solenoids between, to crank, charge, and to run rear power to engels and to Anderson plug for caravan battery. I got mine done through auto electrician but you can get them done at ARB, TJM etc.
There was a previous thread on this issue, some advice was to put a 3rd battery in, but ultimate advice I got, and confirmed at Toyota (unofficial of course) was not to put in the 3rd battery but split the two as I did. Others might have advice that may assist you - my experience as above.
Regards
TD

Jeff,
I had a TD jack, which also came with two batteries. Connected in parallel. I did not have much money to spend, so I connected a manual switch to both batteries. When camping, I would isolate one battery and run fridge of second. When started up on the first, I would again isolate the first battery so that all the charge go to the one that needs it.

I then enquired to do what you suggest in your post, which I thought (simplisticly) will do automatically what I was doing manually. I was then sold a story by the auto leccy that I can do serious harm to the electronics of the engine. He said a small spike could harm the system. He talked me into buying a rotronics which cost me a hole in my pocket.

Unfortunately I am 'leccy challenged' and do not know if I was taken for a ride or not. I think I was...

I will follow replies to this thread carefully as I have upgraded the Jack and also (again) have two factory bats in parallel.

Hi again
I have been searching for the past post on this without luck. However I found a related post in the LCOOL website and pasting an extract below, wich was also recited in the unfound Exploreoz post - it might assist!
regards
td

"Question was asked on another fourum about extra battery and warranty problems.

TOYOTA H.O. CONTACT RESPONSE...

Toyota published information relating to modifications is:
Toyota New Vehicle Warranty will not apply to any non genuine part or accessory, nor to an original component or accessory if a failure occurs that is attributable to a modification or to a non genuine part.

Additional comment:
Toyota would not usually specify any particular modification in regard to any “blanket ban” on warranty coverage, and can only provide specific information and advice in relation to genuine Toyota vehicle components and accessories. It is essential that owners considering modifications to Toyota vehicles ensure they are carried out only by expert suppliers who can demonstrate a full understanding of, and will accept responsibility for, any impact of the modification on the vehicle systems and components.

To assist forum members, the following observations are made in regard to fitting an additional battery to the LC200 1VD-FTV common rail diesel engine version (w/dual battery std.equipment)

• Space in the engine bay is very limited and, critically, the engine wiring harness connectors to the main engine ECU are located at the firewall at the rear passenger side. It is essential that no interference or loading is placed on the wiring harness and/or on these connectors if an additional battery is located into this very limited space.
• Other components in this area include electrical junction box, the fuel filter/sedimenter, the EDU relays / injector drivers (300V output) - very careful consideration required if relocating these parts.
• Mounting additional batteries on inner fender panels applies significant additional loadings, especially if operating in severe conditions - panel cracks may occur.

As a possible alternative to fitting an additional battery in the engine bay, consideration is being given in the aftermarket industry to upgrading the original LC200 55Ah dual batteries with batteries of similar or more capacity to the single 65Ah battery fitted to the LC 7# with the basically same 1VD-FTV engine. (Same capacity /compression ratio, reduction type starter motor etc, - additional battery capacity provided on LC200 to cope with the many additional electrical systems). (LC 7# w/1VD has 1560watt alternator - LC200 w/1VD has 1800watt.)

The LC200 drivers side battery is wired in parallel to the passengers side battery which is connected directly to the vehicle electrical systems. The proposals noted consider using the addtitional capacity of an upgraded battery on the drivers side to power accessories, in conjunction with low voltage cutout and suitable isolator to protect the passenger side battery capacity for starting.

In considering any such modifications, owners are again urged to engage only expert suppliers who can assure a complete understanding of the vehicle electrical systems and specifications.
end "

After reading the responses, am I to assume that the 2 batteries in my TD 100 series standard.

I bought it 2 days ago, I just had a look under the bonnet and the loom looks like a genuine part or a very good after market job.

Cheers Steve.

Jeff,
I have a 100 series GXL and run two 40Lt. engels, one fridge and one freezer. I have upgraded the two original batteries with heavy duty Century,s and have installed a "low voltage cut out switch" which I bought from Hybralec, (the spelling may not be correct). We have been on the road now for two weeks and are presently camped on the Murray at a weir below Echuca. We drive short distances most days and the fridges remain at -20c and around 2c. respectively, they haven,t cut out yet. Mind you it is bloddy cold at night and we hardly need a fridge but the days have some warmth in them.
Hope this helps, Cheers, Nev.

I have split the batteries and added a aux battery with a good experience.

Pirhana have a 3rd battery tray available. It fits at the rear of the engine compartment on the passengers side. They move the fuel filter and a bunch of connectors. Fits an N50 batttery.

I am not convinced this is the right solution, it moves some hairy stuff and it takes the space I have mentally allocated to a compressor, so I replaced the two cranking batteries with bigger ones and seperated them.

Both sides of the diesel have the trays and size for N70's ( 12" long) which drop right in.

For the cranking battery ( Pass side) I put in a N70 800CCA.
For the Aux Battery ( drivers side) I put in a Crown Supreme dual cycle 31DC36 which is about 25mm taller and longer than N70. It has 140AH and 980 CCA. Very impressive specs, though I was worried about the size.

It fitted in nicely, everything was existing, though the battery clamp needed some gentle persuading with a hammer to change it's shape slightly. There is 10mm+ space all around and plently of ventilation room.

The 31DC36 is 1.5 - 2 times the AH capacity of most N70 batteries.

So far the single starting battery has performed well. I have started it up at 9 degrees in the mornings without it raisng a sweat.

If it does struggle when it is really cold in the high country I have wired up the seperators so I can override them and join the two batteries from inside the cabin. ( ARB Surepower 200A and 600A surge). That will give me 1400+ CCA as opposed to the standard 1100 CCA with the original batteries.

Given the sucess of this I not currently going to go with the 3rd battery. I am really worried about the amount of things that you have to move and you only end up with 50 - 60 AH anyway.

Got the Surepower seperator in the US for $110 ( $330 from ARB)

So the cost was the cost of the batteries plus about $140. Installation was 2 hours. ( I installed the batteries without the other electronics in the street outside the shop in 15 mins).

Given it was so easy and cheap, I wondered why people have gone to the effort of making a 3rd battery solution which gives less capacity and moves a bunch of stuff under the bonnet. Then I realised the answer. No one made any money for the labour and special tray from me, so why would any supplier reccomend this....