Caravan Cladding

Submitted: Tuesday, Mar 04, 2008 at 13:49
ThreadID: 55171 Views:8021 Replies:5 FollowUps:2
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I am re cladding a wind up camper trailer and was hoping some one could share some knowledge to help finalize the job.

I had fiberglass cones on the front and rear of the van which I removed and made a sub frame out of ply wood to roll the cladding over. This is fine but now I can not use rivets at the front and rear seams where the walls meet the front and rear.

I was going to screw the cladding to the wood and cover it with a seal. Has anyone else done this or have you done it another way?

Any information on this would be good.
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Reply By: Member - DAZA (QLD) - Tuesday, Mar 04, 2008 at 14:31

Tuesday, Mar 04, 2008 at 14:31
If the cladding has enough surface area against the wood I would use
Liquid Nails, just clamp it together until they set, no ugly screws to
stick out, just make sure you dont want to pull it apart later, as it
will be very difficult.

Cheers
Daza
AnswerID: 290748

Reply By: Dunaruna - Tuesday, Mar 04, 2008 at 17:31

Tuesday, Mar 04, 2008 at 17:31
Are you using cladding sheets or panels (the panels are sort of like weather boards)?
AnswerID: 290776

Reply By: Member - michael H (NSW) - Tuesday, Mar 04, 2008 at 18:02

Tuesday, Mar 04, 2008 at 18:02
Hi campermans,
We do something similar with colorbond roofing/walling by nailing(clout or flat head)/screwing(counter sunk)/gluing a scrap bit of metal to the ply in a designated position then once the top sheet goes over use a pop rivet or you could try sourcing a longer rivet and use a washer on the back to stop it pulling through.

Michael (roof plumber)
AnswerID: 290783

Reply By: PradOz - Tuesday, Mar 04, 2008 at 18:40

Tuesday, Mar 04, 2008 at 18:40
I personally would recommend you fix whats called a metal top hat section to the battens and then you can pop rivet to your hearts content to that. Available as an accessory from any metal wall cladding suppliers. You can glue and screw them on and then rivet into them.

A very good adhesive that is similar to liquid nails is called Selleys All Fix. I found that it is much better and stronger and more reliable than liquid nails. Dont skinp or you will pay the penalty later after all the bumps loosen your handiwork.

Another very strong adhesive is WELDBOND, but you will probably need to prop or brace while it dries, but it is very strong.

Both of these are available at hardwares like Bunnnings etc. Good luck...
AnswerID: 290793

Follow Up By: PradOz - Tuesday, Mar 04, 2008 at 18:42

Tuesday, Mar 04, 2008 at 18:42
sorry that should read "Dont skimp or you will pay the penalty later"...
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FollowupID: 556202

Reply By: campermans - Thursday, Mar 06, 2008 at 17:33

Thursday, Mar 06, 2008 at 17:33
Thanks for the replies.

From reading the instructions for the cladding the pieces are 250mm wide and you screw, staple or rivet at the bottom seam of the first panel and then when the next section is pushed in place to create the seam it covers the screw or similiar. From there you just keep moving down for the other sheets until covered.

I think i will use some of the glue as well just to add extra strength to it.
AnswerID: 291186

Follow Up By: Dunaruna - Thursday, Mar 06, 2008 at 18:09

Thursday, Mar 06, 2008 at 18:09
Staples are best, they will make a slight indentation that allows the next sheet to easily slip over. The end result is a secret staple.

Silicone is best on the studs, it has a bit of give and stops 'drumming' but don't use it too thick or it will cause a bulge, same applies for liquid nails or construction adhesive.
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FollowupID: 556577

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