Patrol power windows by-pass ?

Mind sharing the general idea of how you did it?

Its something I would do, nine times out of ten you pull up...keys out...shut door and one of the kids has left a window down.

I'm not shy with a multi meter so just a general sum up of what you did would be great

Cheers Stefan

G'day....follwoing are the instructions I followed when i did my Patrol...... It may or may not work on yours... Just a disclaimer at this point: Some law-abiding blokes will tell you that doing this mod is highly illegal and you could be sent to jail for 40 years for doing this to your truck; your choice.... hahaha

Start quote:

The padded part of the arm rest clips off, this exposes some screw so that you can remove the top of the console. Flip the console over so that you are viewing it from the under side. (It will be sort of hanging on the wiring loom anyway).

Now I assume that you are now standing beside the open door facing forward, looking at the underside of the console.

Starting at the top left of the main plug the third position to the right should be a white wire with a black stripe. This is your power wire (one of the thicker wires). Check and confirm with a test light that you have power when the key is off. You need to splice into this wire to pick up power and connect it to the wires identified below. (Leave a tail about 4 inches long).

Starting at the bottom left of the same plug the fourth position to the right (red wire with yellow stripe, thin wire) and the fifth position (all white wire, thick). These 2 wires need to be cut and joined together (on the plug side) along with the tail from the power wire above.

The two remaining cut wires that disappear into the loom remain unjoined and can be taped up and tucked away neatly.

End quote.....

It was easy to follow when I did it to my 2000 GU. By the way.....as far as splicing into the power wire is concerned, what I did was to use a sharp scalpal and make 2 cuts around the insulation, about 3mm apart. I then cut the insulation between the 2 circular cuts and peeled off that small bit of insulation. It was then just a case of winding the bared end of the 4" long extra wire around this power wire and soldering it. (I HATE those "scotch-locks" thingos with a passion, but you could use one of them to do the job if you like). I then joined all 3 wires together and soldered the joint. Cover the bared ends with either insulation tape or use liquid insulation tape (from Jaycar etc).

Cheers
Roachie

Many thanks Roachie

Cheers Stefan

No worries Stefan.... just a couple of points..

To get the padded bit of the armrest off, just place a couple of fingers under the end lip, furtherest away from the hinge and pull upwards. The padded bit will just unclip easy-as.

Once that's done, you only need to remove the one screw that is in the section where you put your hand to close the door. The only reason you have to remove the padded section is to be able to lift up the front section once you've removed that screw. The padded section does hide a couple of other silver headed screws, but you don't need to remove those ones unless you want to take the door trim right off (which isn't necessary for this job)

Yes Chris - when I re-wired my Patrols windows I just moved the wire from ign to accessories , and this gives a much improved operation.

G'day Robin,

I am in need to do something about this as well (I know a bit slow), so is this the same white/black stripe wire Bill mentioned in the post above? I presume located somewhere near a fuse or under the dash?

Kind regards

Theo

Hi Theo - I'm off to the bush in a hurry , so haven't re-checked this article I worte couple of years ago , Bye

Robin



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Power Windows via Accessory Switch Mod.

The power windows on GU's are a pain because they require the
ignition to be turned on to operate.
(Think this is same for GQ's ?)

I often stop the car only to find a window half way down.
I do not like to turn ignition back on because it powers up fuel pump & various other circuits including dumping some fuel from sub to main tank.

Got feedup enough other day to see if their was a better way.

I don't mind turning on accessories, as I often sit in car listening
to radio etc which requires accessories on anyway.

So this mod involves cutting 1 wire on the back of fuse panel and
moving it 1 inch so that it is operated by the accessory relay
instead of the ignition relay.


GETTING to back of fuse panel

Lots of cables plug into the back of the fuse panel but with a bit of work it can be edged forward just enough to get access to the wire concerned.

1/ Remove the cover panel that goes under the steering wheel - think 4 self tapper screws, this is the first panel I threw permanently out of my car so can't really remember how it comes off except that it was easy.

2/ Looking at fuse panel - it is held by 2 10mm screws at the top,
take them out.
It is also held at bottom LHS by a plastic tab, with small screwdriver lift tab an ease base of fuse panel forward an inch.

3/ The fuse panel will still not pull straight forward as it is held
at the top by 2 plastic hooks. If you push it to the right 10mm it
will unhook and come forward out of its mounts.
I can never remember these nasty little tricks that stop things
coming undone so I snipped the plastic mount tabs off my fuse panel.

4/ Now the bonnet release catch and the bracket that holds the white
diagnostics plug need to be unbolted and pushed to one side (3 bolts total).
The fuse panel and its cables can now be edged forward 100mm or so.

5/ Lean the top of the fuse panel forward. On the top RHS at the back is a grey plug.
The wire we cut is the red/yellow stripe in this top RHS plug.
I cut mine with about 1cm of wire left in the plug just in case I
wanted to return the car to standard sometime.
(that'ed be a big job - Editor).

A few wires to the left of the red/yellow wire, and in the same plug,
you will see a fatter green/red stripe wire.
This green/red wire runs the Cig Lighter via fuse NO.13 (7.5amp)

Splice the cut red/yellow wire into the green/red one.
Solder them together , and cover with tape.

6/ Apart from putting the car back together this is all you have to
do. But switch on accessories and check windows work before re-
assembling.



SOME POINTS
-----------
You could wire the red/yellow cut wire straight back to battery via
a series switch also, or you could use diodes etc off another line
for different operation modes.
But you cannot wire straight to the battery because the power window
circuit draws 1 or 2 amps constantly and this would eventually
flatten your battery.

The modifyied power window circuit now uses fuse 13 which drives cig.
lighter.
No change should be required here but some people change this fuse to
a heavy one, say 15 amps anyway because they use it for other things
as well.
The Nissan fuse panel has spare fuses in it, and that strange little
white plastic gadget in the fuse panel next to the spare fuses is
used to slip over fuses and extract them.

The power for the windows does not flow thru the red/yellow wire,
this wire just powers up the system via a power window relay which is
located next to the ventilation fan on the opposite side of the car.
(Another way you could do this mod things is to cut red/yellow wire at this relay and loom over to cig. lighter etc)

The modification also allows door & window locks to operate off
accessory line.

At least 1 person I know has had a similar thing done by Nissan
dealer ($100?)so it can be done.

This change was done on my 4800 GU but I used circuits from my Gregorys 3lt diesel manual to work it out, so it should be applicable to all GU's.

Robin Miller

Thanks Robin, and have a good weekend in the bush.