Torsion Bar Adjustment

Submitted: Tuesday, Mar 11, 2008 at 22:17
ThreadID: 55457 Views:11963 Replies:6 FollowUps:1
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Hi all

I'm just about to install some new H/D Torsion Bars onto my MK Triton. They are wound right up at the moment (I didn't do this), so should I wind the adjusters back to middle again when I put the new ones in? Is there a visual setting for the wishbones or c/v joints. I'm not too keen to wind the bars up for height just to have extra strain on the c/v's or decrease handling. I have airbags on the back so I can level the vehicle that way if necessary.
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Reply By: Wayne (NSW) - Tuesday, Mar 11, 2008 at 22:29

Tuesday, Mar 11, 2008 at 22:29
Stef & Sal,

The torsion bar adjuster will have to be wound back until there is no pressure on the torsion bars.

You will have to do this to remove the adjuster so that the torsion bar can be removed.

After the new torsion bars have been installed, adjust the torsion bar until the upper and lower bump stops are equal distance from the wishbone stops.

After 1000km check and adjust if required.


AnswerID: 292218

Reply By: John S (NSW) - Tuesday, Mar 11, 2008 at 22:31

Tuesday, Mar 11, 2008 at 22:31
The adjusters are wound right up because your old torsion bars are stuffed.

Raise the front of the triton to the ride hieght you want, support by the chassis. When you install the new torsion bars, have the adjusters sticking down a fair bit (I think around 30 degrees),then wind up the adjusters until the front just starts to lift off the stands - adjusters should be close to hidden by chassis.

It has been a while since I have done Triton torsion bars, but I think thats how we did them.
AnswerID: 292220

Reply By: greybeard - Tuesday, Mar 11, 2008 at 23:59

Tuesday, Mar 11, 2008 at 23:59
i've re-indexed mine recently. have to do until i can afford to replace the torsion bars.
this has some pointers to articles on adjusting the torsion bars.
mk triton torsion bars
and this has a link to the workshop manual triton workshop manual which describes the factory settings
AnswerID: 292235

Reply By: Richard Kovac - Wednesday, Mar 12, 2008 at 01:16

Wednesday, Mar 12, 2008 at 01:16
Me thinks

if the gap between the bump stop and the lower control arm stays the same . you wasted your money on new crow bars..

I'm sure the experts will tell me I'm wrong, but prove it..

unless you cut at least 5-10mm off the top of the bump stops you will not improve the ride height...


AnswerID: 292239

Follow Up By: normo - Wednesday, Mar 12, 2008 at 10:49

Wednesday, Mar 12, 2008 at 10:49
You may not have improved the ride height but the ride quality will be improved because the torsion bars won't have to be under as much tension to maintain the vehicle ride height
FollowupID: 557652

Reply By: Member -Signman - Wednesday, Mar 12, 2008 at 08:46

Wednesday, Mar 12, 2008 at 08:46
As a follow on from Richard..
See if you can obtain(or even make) some low profile urethane bump stops..
Cutting them down is one option- but a risk of the control arm bashing on the bump stops enough to expose the mounting stud..
You can buy high durometer pourable urethane- and using a plastic cup as a mould, you can turn out a set of effective bump stops...

AnswerID: 292259

Reply By: Member - Oldplodder (QLD) - Wednesday, Mar 12, 2008 at 09:03

Wednesday, Mar 12, 2008 at 09:03
Couple of people have suggested shortening the bump stops for more travel.

Be careful.

This extends the travel of the CV joints. Old CV joints have firmer grease (drys out with use), and the CV joints may not extend as far as they should on full suspension drop. On an older pajero with over 300,000k up, I did have my front axle get pulled out of the diff by this, and lost 4wd. The axle is held in by a circlip. I put a grub screw through the boss at the diff and no more problems.
AnswerID: 292264

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