Dual Batteries in TD 100 series
Submitted: Thursday, Mar 20, 2008 at 16:49
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Colby
G'Day all. I couldn't seem to find this in a previous thread so if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be appreciated. I have a 2003 TD 100 series with the standard 2 cranking batteries. As Iam picking up my new Fridge (50L National Luna ) on the weekend I need to sort out my aux. power setup.
Initially I thought it would simply be a matter of changing out one of the batteries to a deep cycle battery(and checking the one cranking Bat has enough grunt), hooking up all the right wires/smart solenoid and running some decent cables to the back etc. However I was having a chat to a guy at the local 4B
shop the other week and he tells me that they have gone through a stack of 'issues' with Toyota and as a result they will only ever recommend fitting a 3rd battery rather than using one of the two cranking batteries.
Now as I understand this is due to the TD needing more grunt to kick over in extremely low temps? Is this corrected?
I would be running a Fridge/light and maybe an inverter down the back and couldn't see us parked up for more than 24 hrs. In the foreseable future we will be cruising be in the Pilbara/Kimberly and also back
home in
Perth.
I Understand that I could get an auto sparky to wire up what ever I want (Unfortunately not all that handy when it comes to the electrical stuff) but need some advise on weather I really need the 2 cranking batteries.
Thanks for any advise/ comments and safe
Easter driving
Reply By: Mainey (wa) - Thursday, Mar 20, 2008 at 18:31
Thursday, Mar 20, 2008 at 18:31
Either Toyota have:
(A) NO clues at all about what batteries are required for the Vehicle
OR
(B) Yes, they do know that 2 x batteries are required for the vehicle
I think it would be (B) !!
Buy a large capacity quality AGM Deep Cycle battery, place it in the back of the vehicle where the fridge can be connected direct to it with appropriate connections.
Connect "battery cables" from (+) & (-) terminals of one Cranking battery direct to new AGM with a $40 ON/OFF SWITCH in-line in the pos (+) cable at a place where it's secure and you can get at it easily.
This will save you money on a quality battery isolator and leave you to manually switch the battery in/out of the charging system.
However, best method is to use a Quality electronic battery isolator instead of 'manual switch' - did I mention fit fusible links @ each end of new cable?
Mainey . . .
AnswerID:
293819
Reply By: geocacher (djcache) - Thursday, Mar 20, 2008 at 22:47
Thursday, Mar 20, 2008 at 22:47
My brother inlaw had his system split by an autoelec in Sth West Vic. No problems on his trip to
cape york. No problems when he got back.
Then he moved to the victorian high country to live.
He chewed through a set of batteries, and not all that long after the new ones went in winter rolled around. Suddenly he was bridging the auxilliary back in every morning to start it.
Toyota didn't stick two batteries in it to start it just for the hell of it. If they make a hundred thousand vehicles and can save 42cents a vehicle they'll do it - coming from a OEM engineering background trust me if they could save $100 a vehicle they'd definately do it.
His TD 100 series was converted back to an unsplit system and had no more problems.
Don't split it. Unless you want to fit starting batteries more often, especially if you live somewhere with frosty winters.
Dave
AnswerID:
293894
Follow Up By: Member - Tony W (VIC) - Friday, Mar 21, 2008 at 10:59
Friday, Mar 21, 2008 at 10:59
It is simple, split it and use a Redarc or ARB battery isolator that can automatically or manually - depending on how you wire them, connect both batteries for starting ( or winching). I have a switch on
mine. It is set for don't connect - off, while starting most of the time then I set it to connect when in really cold conditions. The switch is wired to the starter position so it only connects during starting when in that position. That way you have seperated batteries, ability to have them in parallel whenever you like ( like original) and you still have the space that the 3rd battery would take up for a compressor etc. There is a 200A version of both that take 600A surge current, more than enough to supliement the main battery. Redarc's website has wiring diagrams of the above.
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