Bypass oil filter fitment

I will fit the buzzer to the oil pressure switch. I have already bought it and fitting it is next. I will also hook up an on/off switch for the buzzer so it doesn't buzz each time i turn on the ignition.

Wayne, there are several different set ups with bypass oil filters. With my system i still keep the 2 freeflow filters, you can see them on the third photo. They still work as usual. They only filter out particles to the size of around 10 microns, leaving particles in the oil that can still damage moving engine parts.

The bypass unit is extra and filters around 1 litre a minute but to around 1 micron. Keeping the oil clean and free from particualr matter.

Do an archive search and many people have their oil profesiionally screened and it is still good after 30 000km but change the oil anyway for peace of mind.

You change the filter element every 5 000km. I was completely changing oil every 5k but the last 1500 km the engine was running rough and "chunky" so who knows what the oil was like for these last 1500km. I should have clean oil the whole time now.

Bypass filters have been around for decades. I can't work out why manufacturers haven't put them on cars from the factory. Extended oil changes would be a good selling point. But then I suppose they are good mates with oil companies.

Barnesy

Barnesy

Is the filter rated in Nominal or Absolute rateings?

you would know that a red blood cell is 6 micron a white blood cell is 24 micron

humans can not see any smaller than 40 micron

Cheers

Richard

I will like a farmer to ask me why he can see a 2 micron stran of wool.... ;-)

Jeepthing, The 3 filters aren't in-line. The bypass is as the name suggests, the system is separate from the regular engine oil flow. The full-flow standard filters stay in place and do their thing filtering the oil flow continuously.

In one minute around one litre of that oil makes its way into they bypass system and is filtered through it. If the bypass filter becomes clogged for whatever reason, then no oil will get into the system. But the oil will still continue to flow through the regular filters as the manufacturer intended.

As for the fully synthetic oil, yes that would be better but I have been using Penrite for years and decided to stick with them. I am trying their semi-synthetic oil (15w-50) and will check it regularly to see how it performs. If it doesn't do what I want then I will have to change brands to fully synthetic. Unless Penrite begin making a fully synthetic diesel oil.

Barnesy

Thanks for that Barnesy I was a bit unclear on how it all fitted together from your photos. I guess you'd need to check your oil level fairly regularly as your bypass filter and hoses connected thereto will be taking a certain quantity of oil permanently from the oil pan during the filtering process. But the process certainly has merit in keeping the oil clean.
I notice you are using a fairly high viscosity oil, 50 seems a bit high to me is that the recommended grade for your vehicle? With the fine tolerances of modern engines the normal viscosity is 5w 30. Penrite do make a fully synthetic oil which is suitable for diesel engines, a lot of Jeep owners use it in the CRD V6 turbo and it's also C3 compliant in terms of diesel particulate filters it's the SIN 0w 40.

I use Mobil 1 5w 30 ESP in mine which is C3 compliant. This is specifically recommended by Jeep and Mercedes Benz for the diesel engine. You can't get it off the shelf but I get mine from the local Mobil Depot in 20l containers last one cost me around $193 which works out at $48+ for 5 litres. You're probably paying around that for your semi.

Anyway thought I'd let you know

Jeep, the recommended viscosity for the 4.2 diesel is 15w-40. As the engine is 17 years old and done nearly 300 000km i am happy using a higher viscosity multigrade. I am up north where it is hot all year round and the old GQ motor gets hot easily. It also blows a bit of smoke.

I was aware of the Penrite 5-30 but they recommend that for new, high performance diesels, somethiong mine is not. May give it a go if the semi doesn't perform the way i hope it wil.
Thanks

Barnesy

Geez you've got some k's out of the old girl about time you traded her in on a V6 CRD Grand Cherokee or on one of the new diesel Wrangler Unlimiteds:))

I tend to agree with the idea of using a thinner oil. I use Amsoil 5w30 fully synthetic in the Chev which has done about 220K.... and it has been bloody hot here for the last month or so (cooler now though).

The 5w30 gets up into the engine more quickly.... I can't see myself going back to a 15w40 again.

Barnesy

"The bypass is as the name suggests, the system is separate from the regular engine oil flow. The full-flow standard filters stay in place and do their thing filtering the oil flow continuously."

Can you explain how this can happen?

The law states that liquid will travel the least line of resistance

or is this on the sales broacher "In one minute around one litre of that oil makes its way into they bypass system and is filtered through it. If the bypass filter becomes clogged for whatever reason, then no oil will get into the system. But the oil will still continue to flow through the regular filters as the manufacturer intended."


can you please expian how the system works?

Regard's

Richard Kovac

Roachie,
Yes the thinner oil definately lubricates better the 5 gets up into the engine much quicker and I believe the 30 gets right into those fine tolerances I believe if you go too high the thicker oil can't do that. As an example my son has an ss commodore and where he was getting it serviced uses a 15w 40 Castrol Magnatec. The manual states 10w 30 preference but also says if this grade is not available 15w 40 is OK.
He paid me a visit over Easter and I noticed his engine was a bit ticky. Anyway it was nearly due for an oil change so I talked him into loosing his wallet and getting some Castrol Edge fully synthetic 5w 30.
That engine is running much quieter and smoother now.
He's converted to the full synthetic now and is going to do his own oil changes from now on.

Richard,

It would be relatively easy to prove (or disprove) the amount of oil-flow with the set-up that Barnesy has. All he would need to do is remove the filler cap off the rocker cover (which is the return line's outlet)....hold it into a suitable coke bottle etc..... and register how much oil is pumped into the bottle in the course of one minute.

Too easy.

Roachie

I'm no physicist Richard but the system does work. After fitting I did as Roachie said, took the return cap off and watched the oil trickle back into the rocker cover. It is a nice steady stream of oil and would fill a soft drink bottle no problems.

I'm not one to blindly follow sales brochures without some sort of first hand experience. I do have to take their word for it when they claim to filter to 1 micron, I can't prove that, but have no reason to doubt it as all bypass manufacturers make that same claim.

As for the thinner oil, i found the thinner oil makes the engine blow more smoke and is a lot noisier and clatters, especially after a long trip in 40 degree heat. It does take a few more seconds to get going first thing though. I will see how this oil goes before deciding on next oil viscosity. I would prefer a fully synthetic.

Thanks

Barnesy

Sounds like the engine needs a new set of rings and big end bearings Barnesy sounds like you might be getting a bit of piston slap with that thinner oil so you would be better off sticking with the viscosity you are using.
Just in case you don't know Penrite make a SIN 10 fully synthetic which they claim will outperform 10w 30;40;50 & 60.
But, I think you should trade her in on one of those Jeeps I previously mentioned:))
Enjoy your weekend mate.

Barnesy/Roachie, is the bypass filter plumbed into the lube system before the main filter? if so is it tee-ed into the line and them returned to the sump via the rocker cover?

Richard

Richard, It is "T" d in to the port where the OE oil pressure switch is located. It doesn't want or need a high volume or high pressure flow rate. The idea is to systematically syphon off (if that's the right term to use) a small amount of the oil at any given time, and run it through a totally separate filtration set-up. If it get's blocked etc, then no harm is done as the original filtration system is still there, plugging away.

This differs to the Amsoil system which I had on my Chev for a while. With mine, it was a case of removing the normal oil filter and replacing it with an alloy adaptor plate with an outlet and inlet port. Hoses then went to/from a remote-mounted head unit which holds 2 filters....one being a standard type filter, the other a much larger by-pass filter. The head unit had a sprung-loaded ball which allowed only a small amount of the oil to go through the larger filter, whilst the majority of the oil went through the ordinary filter.

I must say that, on reflection, I do like the system Barnsey has fitted better than what I had. Amsoil do make a similar set-up, but utlising a remote mounted, soin-on filter the same as the large one I was using, but not needing the standard main filter to be dispensed with.

Roachie

Richard, Roachie has explained it well. On the third photo you can see the two original grey filters, still there as usual.

I have removed the oil pressure switch from the block next to the oil filter and screwed it into the end of a brass t-piece (you can see that blurry in the photo).

In the other port in the t-piece i have connected the hose taking oil from the block to the remote bypass filter unit. You can see that hose in the photo connecting to the right of the brass t-piece.

The oil then gets filtered through the unit and is returned to the engine via the return point in the rocker cover. This return point is actually higher than the filter unit.

I don't know about specific pressures etc but given the return point is at the top of the engine, yet the t-piece is down near the sump, there must be enough pressure in the system to force some oil through out of the engine, up through the fine filter then up higher again to the return point.

I will have a problem when I want to change filter elements. As the return point is high, the filter unit never drains the oil. So before i change the element i will have to remove the return point, place it in a bucket lower than the filter and let the oil drain out.

Barnesy

Sorry Richard, don't worry about that last paragraph about chaning the filter element. I just checked it and it seems the oil drains back into the engine sump through the t-piece.

I'm happy with that as it saves me some hassle when it comes time to change elements!

Thanks to both of you, but to me (a service manager of a hydraulics company) you are now diverting oil flow from where the engine manufacture designed it to go, I know it maybe only 1/min but if the oil pump flow rate is 2l/min thats 50%.

lack of lube? for clean oil?

Anyway just a thought

Cheers

Richard

That's a good point you've made there Richard you would think that the T piece would halve the pressure.
But perhaps with the thicker filter in the bypass filter there could be a bit of back pressure in the line going to the "bypass filter" which would maintain a good pumpflow to the engine; maybe the pressure/oil flow might only drop by say 1/4 which would maintain good oil flow to efficiently lubricate the engine?
He's also using thicker oil too which I assume would take a bit more pressure to filter through the filter in the bypass filter thereby creating a bit more back pressure down that bypass line?

You know more about hydraulics than I do Richard but it seems to me that you are making this more complicated than it actually is.

The bypass system takes an extra 1 litre of oil. When doing a complete fill it now takes 11 litres insterad of 10. The extra 1 litre is what is constantly in the bypass system during driving. That means in the sump and engine there is still the 10 litres that the manufacturer wanted.

It is a closed system so I don't see how having a couple of extra hoses, compensated for by having more oil, would affect pressure inside the engine?

Barnesy

Barnesy

I'm having a read up on it now on the web, their is a lot of sales guff to get through..

Richard

I was planning to let the filter sit out for a few days and drain. I assume most of the oil would drain back out again eventually.

Best way to dispose of that dirty filter? I honestly hadn't gotten to that part yet. The filter is only paper so should eventually disintegrate. Even still it would be better only having a dirty old filter to dispose of than 10 litres of oil.

Barnesy

Patrolguy, this was easy to fit for me. I am no mechanic but do know how to do basic mechanical tasks. There were only 2 parts of fitting that were a pain.

One was getting the t-piece to correctly fit into the block. The one they supplied was the wrong thread. Easily remedied by going down to the local hydraulics workshop and asking them to fit a connector with a different thread. Cost me $12.00.

Second was getting the hoses fitted nice and tight. I don't have my workshop with me right now that has my vice etc. so i took the hoses into the hydraulic shop again and asked them to fit the hoses onto the connectors.

Apart from that it's just a simple matter of mucking around with it until you get it to work without leaks.

I would recommend the Kleenoil. Not sure what you mean by Aussie dinnie rolls instead of a cartridge. The fliters are a lot different to your standard toilet roll. They are different material and wound a lot tighter. They are encased in a cartridge wrapper to prevent paper bits from breaking off and making their way into the engine.

My kit including hose, fittings and 4 cartidges cost around $260 delivered if i remember correctly.

Barnesy

Forgot to mention, the return point wasn't supplied by Kleenoil. I had to buy it from a different manufacturer off ebay. Kleenoil don't make these. I wanted the rteurn point through the filler cap.

Barnsey said:.....Not sure what you mean by Aussie dinnie rolls instead of a cartridge

Oops! I meant "Dunny rolls" (toilet paper rolls)
I'd rather have the choice to use toilet paper if the cartridges are not available. I've never heard of paper breaking free.
Do the Kleenoil take Australian paper rolls?

You can put toilet rolls in your engine to filter your oil if you want. But i see toilet paper as being for wiping your bum, not for filtering oil. I wouldn't put one in my car, i would rather have nothing.

Have you ever dunked a toilet roll in water and seen it disintegrate? You don't think that a piece of this flimsy paper can break off with hot oil flowing through it constantly, and have paper ending up in the engine.

These filter cartridges are very tightly wound and solid. Very different from dunny rolls. I can't answer if toilet rolls fit in the Kleenoil because i haven't checked.

Yep I agree. Toilet rolls are good for one thing only. -- The purpose that they are designed for. Regards G.T.

http://www.dieselbombers.com/show-tell/6030-anatomy-frantz-oil-bypass-filter.html