Oils ani't oils Are they?

Submitted: Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 13:36
ThreadID: 56237 Views:2303 Replies:9 FollowUps:11
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Hi All,
Now I know I'm a bit old fashioned but I like to do the oil/filter changes on my vehicles myself, normally at intervals of around 7K.
I use a standard repco filter and generally go for good quality synthetic oil (seems to stay cleaner).

However I am about to purchase my first ever deisel (Nissan 4.2lt 10yr old) pick it up tommorow so you can guess what my job is going to be on the weekend, hence my question is (and even as I type this I have feeling this is a fridge.tyres type question)
what would you recommed as a good quality oil for use in a diesel?

I am also going to change the Air filter and drain and refil the cooling system, is there anything else you would recommend?

Rgds
Ian

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Reply By: Member -Signman - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 14:00

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 14:00
Gunna do the fuel filter??
Been using the Valvoline stuff for a long time. Obviously there's better (& worser) stuff out there?? So long as it meets or exceeds the API rating...
Probably out of your expertise- but when where the injectors last overhauled??




AnswerID: 296378

Follow Up By: Member - Noldi (WA) - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 14:15

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 14:15
Hi Si

Your right I have very little knowledge on deisels at all

Its done 230k

Are the injectors expensive to get serviced?
how often should they be done?
is there any indication of when they need it?

Also I have heard people talk of installing 2 fuel filters, is this necassery, does it have a benifit?

Rgds
Ian
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FollowupID: 562421

Follow Up By: Member -Signman - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 15:06

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 15:06
Ian
Not up to speed on injector servicing/requirements for injectors on that vehicle..
Others are sure to be along to give you more informative tips..

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FollowupID: 562427

Reply By: Stephen M (NSW) - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 14:33

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 14:33
Dont forget the diff oils, tranfer case, gear box. At least you will no they have been changed and all is new wether they need it or not. Check out the diff breathers as well. Intending to do a few water crossings ?? I would be extending the breathers nice and high so they suck in any water into the diffs. Easy job to do. Dont forget the clutch and brake master cylinders as well. Might be worth giving a flush through, possibly power steer as wellRegards Steve M
AnswerID: 296384

Follow Up By: Member - Noldi (WA) - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 14:41

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 14:41
Good idea Steve, Thanks, may need 2 weekends ;-)
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FollowupID: 562422

Follow Up By: Stephen M (NSW) - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 20:53

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 20:53
"so they suck in any water into the diffs" I dont think so. Thats what we dont want to do. Meant to say so you DONT suck any water into the diffs. Regards Steve M
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FollowupID: 562528

Reply By: Member - Kevin J (QLD) - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 16:38

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 16:38
Ian,

Don't claim to be an expert on oils but can say I was involved in the oil industry for 32 yrs. Certainly there are oils and oils. There are standards and specifications for each API rating and say on a scale of 1 to 10 there some oils will just reach the bottom of the scale while others are nearer to the top mark. The base oils used may all come from the same source refinery and the final products may be blended and packaged in the same plant however it is the 'additive package' which is added to the base oil which makes the difference on the rating scale. Some use a cheaper 'package' which gives an advantage in the market while others choose to build the final product on quality. Which is right?

To give an example. If I graduate from Uni as an engineer with Hons and my friend graduates with a basic level 5. We are both engineers and we can both do the job. Only time will tell and it is not possible to predetermine which will be the best in the long term.

When I bought my Tojo TD 4.2 I contacted one of my old associates who specialised in lubricants for some 45 years and he went right up the line to Japan only to come back with his own assessment and recommendation.

The biggest issue with any diesel is keeping the operationally produced contaminents at the lowest level and since the oil in the sump is where all the carbon and crud ends up the best method of contaiment can be achieved in my book by using good quality filters together with an oil that meets the set standard and then replacing both often. A point often lost with diesels is the air cleaner element. It may look clean but if you are running in dusty conditions a change could be a good move. Just remember if you use a blast of air to back clear the filter it is also very possible that you are decreasing the efficiency of the filter by enlargeing the entrapment structure which will subsequently allow more dust to enter the system.

Just my opinion. Incidently you will note I am not pushing any brand as my association has ended.

Kevin J
AnswerID: 296406

Follow Up By: Member - Noldi (WA) - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 17:44

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 17:44
Thanks Kev, good info, I have always just used repco oil filters what would your preference be?

Rgds
Ian
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FollowupID: 562454

Follow Up By: Member - Kevin J (QLD) - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 17:58

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 17:58
Ian,

Have not heard anything which would persuade me not to use Repco.

Kevin J
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FollowupID: 562462

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 21:46

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 21:46
Kevin,
Can I pick your brain on oil viscosity for the 1HD-FTE Landcruiser like yours?
I'm contemplating using a 5W30 or 10W30 oil instead of the commonly available 15W40 diesel engine oils. The handbook says this is fine. Castrol site says the Edge 5W30 is fine too. What do you think?

Cheers
Phil
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FollowupID: 562555

Reply By: Shaker - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 16:47

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 16:47
Ask the previous owner what oils he has been using & stick to that!
AnswerID: 296409

Follow Up By: Member - Noldi (WA) - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 17:45

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 17:45
Good Idea, will chase that up
Rgds
Ian
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FollowupID: 562455

Reply By: al - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 17:04

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 17:04
hi noldi
read thread no. 55893 my be of some interest to you
regards
al
AnswerID: 296410

Follow Up By: Member - Noldi (WA) - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 17:46

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 17:46
Wiil do thanks for the tip
Rgds
Ian
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FollowupID: 562456

Reply By: Heefers - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 18:06

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 18:06
G'day Noldi,
Probably telling you nothing new but when you refill your cooling system make sure you refill it with de-mineralised water from the bottles. Saves from mineral deposits building up in your cooling system.

Cheers, Heefers
AnswerID: 296425

Follow Up By: Member - Noldi (WA) - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 18:35

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 18:35
Thanks Heefers, no I had not thought of that

Rgds

Ian
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FollowupID: 562471

Follow Up By: kym111 - Friday, Apr 04, 2008 at 21:29

Friday, Apr 04, 2008 at 21:29
I've been told that when topping up a cooling system with coolant, use exactly the same that is already in it! Don't go mixing different coolants. I think it might have been to do with causing corrosion.

Has anyone heard of this? I usually use either rain water or distilled, never tap water unless you're in ttrouble and that's all that's available.
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FollowupID: 562775

Reply By: Lindsay - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 18:48

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 18:48
G'day Ian,

Most important advise I was given with diesel engines was when the kilometres got up over the 100,000 mark, try to avoid changing the brand of oil that is used. Apparently different diesel oils have cleaning agents in them and changing the brand can cause the lubricant to strip the previous lubricant from the walls of cylinders and bearings prior to the new oil taking over. During this period, damage could occur. I am no expert, but I have followed this advise and have 322,000 on the motor and it is still going strong.
Good luck,

Lindsay
AnswerID: 296433

Reply By: Garbutt - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 21:19

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 21:19
My mechanic has also advised me to keep the same type of oil. I do the 5000 km changes and I get him to do the 10000 km changes. I now buy my oil from him for the ones I do to keep the same type of oil, he sells it to me a a price comparable to what I can find anywhere else so thats okay. Seems to make some sense I guess and if it costs you nought extra to keep the same type, why not. For the record its Fuchs oil that I use now.

GB
AnswerID: 296478

Reply By: Member - David P (VIC) - Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 21:43

Thursday, Apr 03, 2008 at 21:43
Is it a manual? Hope it doesnt have a dual mass flywheel !...silverback
AnswerID: 296488

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