changing diff pinion seal on 100 series
Submitted: Monday, Apr 21, 2008 at 20:51
ThreadID:
56867
Views:
11319
Replies:
4
FollowUps:
3
This Thread has been Archived
rooooboy
hi,
has anyone attempted to change a read diff pinion seal on a 100 series landcruiser? just roughly how long and whats involved and any special
tools required thanks.
Reply By: Top End Explorer Tours - Monday, Apr 21, 2008 at 20:59
Monday, Apr 21, 2008 at 20:59
I did one this afternoon on a 75 series same deal, I had a hoist a rattle gun a seal pick and all the right sockets, it took me 15 minutes.
The same job on the ground without a rattle gun, would take about an hour with a lot of swearing.
Cheers Steve.
AnswerID:
299710
Reply By: Member - Hughesy (NSW) - Monday, Apr 21, 2008 at 21:38
Monday, Apr 21, 2008 at 21:38
G'Day Roooboy,
When you replace that whining rear diff centre you won't have to worry about the leaking pinion seal ;))))
AnswerID:
299723
Reply By: pop2jocem - Monday, Apr 21, 2008 at 21:41
Monday, Apr 21, 2008 at 21:41
Roooooboy
You might want to look at changing the crushable sleeve between the pinion bearing cones. If you dont you may increase the pinion bearing preload too much if you tighten the yoke retaining nut to anywhere near its required torque.
Cheers Pop
AnswerID:
299725
Follow Up By: sjp - Tuesday, Apr 22, 2008 at 05:44
Tuesday, Apr 22, 2008 at 05:44
yup happened to me , bleep mech used a rattle gun instead of a torque wrench on an old sleeve,diff started to make noises after a while ,cost $500 to fix
FollowupID:
565906
Follow Up By: Top End Explorer Tours - Tuesday, Apr 22, 2008 at 07:47
Tuesday, Apr 22, 2008 at 07:47
I have used rattle guns for years without a problem, all you do when tightening
the nut back up is back the exhaust on the gun down so it doesn't tighten up to tight.
As for the crush spacer 9 times out of 10 the diff centre has to be removed, and the diff pulled apart to replace it as it cannot be pulled out the the end of the diff, and I am yet to see a rattle gun strong enough to crush the spacer.
Cheers Steve.
FollowupID:
565911
Follow Up By: sjp - Wednesday, Apr 23, 2008 at 20:04
Wednesday, Apr 23, 2008 at 20:04
Steve all i know is that a simple job cost me an extra $500,and i just passed on what i was told ,in fact the mech who fixed it was good friends with the one who stuffed it(that guy sold his bussiness to go and work in the mines)thats why i couldnt get any money back,but one day when we meet i will ask him if spare me $500 of the $120k he gets a year
FollowupID:
566294
Reply By: Peter 2 - Tuesday, Apr 22, 2008 at 06:51
Tuesday, Apr 22, 2008 at 06:51
Before pulling it apart mark the flange, pinion flange and nut.
After replacing the seal tighten
the nut but don't tighten past the point where your marks line up, if you do you will crush the spacer and put a higher than necessary preload on the bearing which will as has been said require early replacement.
To make it all easier I made a 500 mm long bar from heavy 50 x50 x5 mm angle iron to bolt to the flange to hold it when undoing and tightening the pinion nut. Basically it has two holes to line up with two holes in the flange and a bit cut out to clear the pinion nut sufficiently.
Can supply pics if necesary.
AnswerID:
299771