DRIVING A NEW DIESEL

Submitted: Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 06:04
ThreadID: 57220 Views:3067 Replies:14 FollowUps:4
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Hi all, just picked up my new Ford Ranger 3.0td yesterday. I'm extremely impressed by engine performance.

Has anyone got any suggestions on the best way to run in the engine.

Someone told me to 'to drive it like its stolen'. I would appreciate your experience.

Thanking you in advance.
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Reply By: Member - Kevin J (QLD) - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 06:43

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 06:43
Treat it like you love it but drive it like you hate it.

Kevin J
AnswerID: 301793

Reply By: Isuzumu - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 07:05

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 07:05
You do not need to rev the ring of diesels so keep it below 3000 rpm for the first few thou ks. Your diesel power is best at the top of its torque which is probably below 2000rpm anyway, as I said diesels do not need to be reved hard.

Cheers Bruce
AnswerID: 301795

Reply By: Rock Ape - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 07:08

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 07:08
Drive it like Mister Henry Ford says...... you can't go wrong cause he made them.
AnswerID: 301796

Reply By: Member - Matt & Julie (VIC) - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 07:25

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 07:25
G'day James
Just drive it like you drove your last one you should not have any problems
Cheers

Matt & Julie


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AnswerID: 301797

Reply By: F4Phantom - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 08:51

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 08:51
No need to do high revs but torque loeading it here and there to get high pressures in the cylinders will prevent glazing. Also dont idle for excessive periods. Also dont rev it hard unloaded. This really only applies to the first 1000km. Of course there are lots of theories on how to do all this but I agree with the one I am pushing here.
AnswerID: 301802

Follow Up By: Member - Oldbaz. NSW. - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 09:37

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 09:37
I agree with F4 Phantom, the only additon I would make is ,after a few thou take the revs up to a higher level than you usually operate . Say up a long hill in 3rd. The theory is that pumps only operated to a certain level develop a sort of "memory" & can be a bit reluctant to exceed that point. Only required occassionally.
Might be bull..., but sounded logical to me...oldbaz.
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Reply By: Bonz (Vic) - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 09:32

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 09:32
Running in these days is not the chore it used to be. Tolerances and build quality is much better and its not such an imperative. As many have said just ease it along for the first 1000km or so, give it some load up a few hills and so on but dont be too fussed.
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AnswerID: 301806

Reply By: Thermoguard Instruments - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 09:42

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 09:42
Hi James,

My two cents worth: Don't rev it too high for the first few thousand kms but DO use full throttle and full boost at medium rpm (1500 - 2500). Giving the engine full cylinder pressures is good for properly bedding-in the piston rings and cylinder bores.

If you have to do a long trip in the first few thousand kms, vary the engine speed and load often rather than sit at steady rpm for hours on end. For example, if traffic conditions allow, back-off and coast down to 70 or so then give it full boot back up to 100 (without using max rpm).

Please don't try to warm it up by long idling. Whether it's brand new or has 300,000 km on it, long idling is bad for a diesel, especially when cold. And it won't actually 'warm-up' appreciably by idling from cold. Start it up, give it a few seconds to get the oil flowing, then drive off, keeping the load and rpm moderate until the temp gauge starts to move up a bit.

DO give any turbo-charged engine a couple of minutes if idling after highway or high load driving. I don't want to re-ignite the turbo-timer debate but I let my pre-turbo exhaust gas temp drop to the low 200s before switching off. For around town driving this usually takes about 1 minute but after pulling off the highway when towing it can easily take 3 - 4 minutes for the temps to fall back to a reasonable level. This may not be quite so important for turbos with water cooled centre bearings (what does the Mazda/Ford have?) but is still good practice IMHO.

Ian
AnswerID: 301807

Reply By: Member - David P (VIC) - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 09:48

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 09:48
To look after the diff. I wouldnt tow anything heavy for the first 10k......silverback
AnswerID: 301809

Reply By: DIO - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 10:54

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 10:54
Congrats on yr new vehicle. As for 'running it in' why not read the Owner's Handbook, I'm sure, like most manufacturers Ford will have stated what they consider as 'appropriate'. As an example, new Police vehicles are 'not run-in' they are just driven according to need from day 1. Probably find it doesn't do them any long term damage. Good luck with it and above all ENJOY IT.
AnswerID: 301819

Reply By: Member - Davoe (Yalgoo) - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 11:06

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 11:06
open the owners manaul and follow the running in instructions
AnswerID: 301821

Follow Up By: Thermoguard Instruments - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 12:58

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 12:58
With respect Davoe and others, Owners' Manuals are written for the Lowest Common Denominator of vehicle operator and to try to protect the manufacturer from incompetence. Therefore they usually recommend 'gentle' driving for the first X kms, that being the lesser of the possible evils.

Imagine the flood of litigation if the Manuals recommended full throttle loading of the engine in the mid-rpm range. Too many idiots would read that as a licence to thrash the living daylights out of the engine from the first moment.
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Reply By: Member - Olcoolone (S.A) - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 11:34

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 11:34
I just would not drive it for the first 5000K!
AnswerID: 301822

Follow Up By: Trevor R (QLD) - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 19:30

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 19:30
ROFLMAO!!! love the idea.
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FollowupID: 567975

Follow Up By: Member - SNAKE QLD - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 20:25

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 20:25
Nearly hissed.Good one. Snake and Josie
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Reply By: wigger - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 15:24

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 15:24
James,
Have a Ranger and my dealer offers 3k complimentary "check' but if you look and see what it covers it's a waste of time availing yourself of it and having to drive to the dealer.
Next check is 10k but handbook says oil must be changed every 5000 so you'll either have to put it in then or do it yourself. I do my own oil changes because the dealer is using 15-40 and handbook says to use 5 or 10-30.l Oil type is critical in these engines and Castrol technos say it should be something like Castrol sport edge 5-30 which is a full synthetic. Expensive ($70 for 5 litres but K Mart have it for $50 sometimes.) when they insist on 5k changes but you wouldn't want to get caught missing one.

Be carefull- the single cabs display the worst of 'ute' handling esp in the wet and it's not hard to end up in a ditch. I have a tractor tube in the back and fill it with water when the roads are greasy or fast dirt.
AnswerID: 301836

Reply By: RussellP - Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 18:48

Saturday, May 03, 2008 at 18:48
I just picked up a BT50 last week.
The Mazda manual says to take it easy for the first 1000k.
As with all of my previous diesels, I didn't over rev it, but loaded it up every now and then as others have detailed.
Pretty easy to do due given the gearing.
Only real problem I have is the speedo is about 8% out. A pain in the ar$$.
Just got a prodigy fitted. Towing, and stopping, the horse float has never been easier or better.
Can't wait for the motor to free up.....
AnswerID: 301879

Reply By: mechpete - Monday, May 05, 2008 at 20:52

Monday, May 05, 2008 at 20:52
just drive it normally ,
don,t be affraid to sink the slipper in occassionly .
mechpete
AnswerID: 302210

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