Where should I run cables through the 100 LC Firewall

Rosscoe

I did this on the weekend. You've got me wondering if I've stuffed up because I ran 2x 3B&S cables down the drivers side of the cruiser (2006 TD). There appears to be more room in the recess under the sill panels down the drivers side.

There is a rubber grommet with cables going through the fire wall at a high level on both sides. I just went through these. Removed the door sills and b pillar cover, removed lining on side of cargo area - no damage. You will find it easier to do if you remove the front seat as well. It makes it easier to move the carpet and gives you full access to install the cables. I will be putting a terminal block on each cable with connections to compressor and waeco 50 in back of cruiser and then running 6B&S back to van.

The reason I went down the drivers side is because my fridge and compressor are mounted on that side, and I have 2x sets of camera cables and computer gear going down the passenger side.

Where are the computers mounted in the cruiser and how much chance is there of cooking them if the power cables are nearby.

John

Hi again Ircon, I’m not up on the specific location of wire looms in 100 Series but in most vehicles you can usually find a path for run new cable by following the existing vehicle looms.

As for worrying about electrical interference and spikes, you may read, from time to time, that if you don’t buy this or that brand of Dual Battery Controller, you risk damaging your vehicle’s computers because you will not have the benefit of their spike and surge protection.

This is nothing more than cheap ( and in my opinion, desperate ) sales hype, no matter what make or model of vehicle you have, all automotive electronic components have their own built in protection so just run your cable where you want.

Back to your question and again, not being up on 100’s loom location, if the are no spare rubber grommets in the firewall ( quite common on most vehicles ) you can usually get through the firewall by making a small cut in the rubber boot that protects the vehicle’s looms where they pass through the firewall.

Just make that you have access to the loom inside the cab, then just follow the vehicle’s wire loom to the rear.

Another tip to save you some time and money. If you run your cable for powering your caravan, to the rear of your 100 first, you can use the Anderson plug terminals as a junction and run some 6mm auto twin from the Anderson plug terminals, via an inline fuse holder, to your power outlet for your Engel.

Cheers

Rosscoe, there are two plastic grommets each side under the carpet in front of the rear seats under the carpet that are good for access and entry. You would need to run the cables through split tubing to protect them or at least the positive, if they are separate cables. You would be best advised to silicone those after running cables though.

For the front of the cabin I have come in through the front grommet.

I actually ran 32mm sq cables to the back for the Karavan charging to get plenty of amps there. I think I could weld off them if I upgraded the fuse.

I see that another contributer has mentioned the groove you can run cables through inside the car, and that is another option if you already have the cables inside, just make sure they cannot rub and short. Mine is an 06 build

My 04 TD GXL was already wired for a rear fridge from the aux - one job saved.
Re the van charging via an Anderson at rear. I ran my cables from the aux, inside some 19mm irrigation poly, along the higher edges of the chassis, right to the back left hand corner, then round to the hitch area - the latter 500mm roughly being in the split, ribbed black conduit - with a dust cover on the 50A Anderson, I just tuck it behind the hitch when not in use. BTW - I did do a parallel cable off this power line, into the rear left of the cargo area - there is a fairly big grommet on the left rear underside below the jack that allows access up into that jack storage area - I then snuck that cable out under the trim moulding bottom left of the cargo area - that Anderson is used for a compressor / fridge backup etc.
Re lighter cables / antenna etc into the interior near the dash - I squeezed mine in through the large grommet front right of the firewall - near my ABS - sprayed a bit of silicon on I think to assist them sliding through.

Any of these options are OK. Just make sure a Circuit Breaker is installed as close to the battery take-off's point as possible, to protect against any future cable shorts.

I ran the Pirhana isolator cable from the main battery to a 100amp circuit breaker then through the grommett on the passenger side to the isolator mounted under the passenger seat to a 100A/H AGM battery in the rear for the fridge etc. Then ran heavy duty cable through a 30amp fuse to an anderson plug for the trailer battery.

Theres a rubber grommet on the passenger side up high(ish) on the firewall that you can slit with a knife and run thru, silicone it up when you're thru

For Rosscoe and John,

All that I have read in this forum and others suggest (read demand) 6 B&S cable minimum from front to rear for Aux power setups. Why did you use the 2 B&S? and not the same cable throughout?

John,
I am a bleep .
I wrongly assumed smaller numbers in the cable designation meant smaller cable size.
Cheers
Trevor