Winch will not release out after reaching max capacity - GQ

Submitted: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 15:52
ThreadID: 57602 Views:2126 Replies:5 FollowUps:9
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HELP - I winch (under heavy load) to the point where the winch stops (12,000lb low mount), but then the winch wont release out nor winch in any further. The only way to release the winch is to somehow move the car closer to the winch point ... which is not too hard if the ground is flat and someone else is around. But if I am on a hill and there is no one ... Im in trouble.
Has anyone any ideas as to why it will not release to spool back out? If it is the gearing, which ones in particular?
I have it pulled apart at the moment and cant see anything broken or wrong. Please guys, give me some ideas...
Kylie
PS I used the winch to pull a tree out. The winch pulled the small ones out but the big ones I had to jump on the brakes. Then the winch got to the point of no more, but it wouldnt release out. The only way was to release the brakes and the tension. But this is no good for the bush ...
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Reply By: Matt(WA) - Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 15:59

Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 15:59
Hi Kylie,
Is the wiring all up to scratch? Is the wiring nice and thick from the battery to the winch. I had the turkeys that swaped my winch from one car to another put the earth to the body. The earth from the body to the battery is nowere near capable of carrying that much current(450amps+ at full or close to full load). The winch was just stopping till I worked out what was wrong and moved the winch earth to the battery. Hope this helps.
Matt

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AnswerID: 303762

Follow Up By: Kylie in the exy - Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 20:39

Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 20:39
Matt,
wiring all looks good. Cable is about 10mm thick from the battery. There is the red from the battery to the control box, the black from the battery to the winch, then there is a smaller wire from the control box to the earth point on the actual winch.
It all looks to be in order.
Thanks for the suggestion.
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FollowupID: 569939

Reply By: Robin Miller - Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 16:25

Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 16:25
Had a problem a bit like that once.

Winch would bind up but only under heavy load, as brake section
effectivily jammed the mechanism.

In my case it turned out to be that the winch mounting face
was not perfectly flat , it was 2mm out.

Hard to believe but placing 2mm of washers under one of the mounting bolts solved the problem completely.


Robin Miller

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Follow Up By: Kylie in the exy - Thursday, May 15, 2008 at 10:16

Thursday, May 15, 2008 at 10:16
Hi Robin,
That must have taken ages to figure out. Winch is off the car at the moment but will definately keep that in mind when it goes back on the bar. Thanks for the tip.
Kylie
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Follow Up By: Kylie in the exy - Monday, May 19, 2008 at 11:40

Monday, May 19, 2008 at 11:40
Robin,
The winch bar has been pushed out a couple of mm in the corner. Makes sense what you are saying as then when the winch is all attched it too then becomes slightly out perhaps causing the jam.
I will straighten and strengthen the bar and see how it goes then.
Thanks
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FollowupID: 570727

Reply By: Member - Alastair D (NSW) - Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 17:52

Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 17:52
If you are winching to the point of stall I suggest that you should be using a snatch block to gain extra pull and ease the strain on the winch.

If there is no obvious sign of anything broken then I think the suggestion of a distorted case or winch mount is probably right. Most winches now do not have their own frame and use the mount to keep the end casings in the right place. If you have really worked it then I suspect there is distortion and the end bearings are binding.

It is not clear if the motor is still trying to turn when you try to power out. If it is silent then you have an electrical problem if it is trying then look for a distorted mount or gear cage.

alastair
AnswerID: 303782

Follow Up By: Kylie in the exy - Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 22:21

Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 22:21
Hi Alastair
I think you might be on to something here.
I winched until the motor slowed to a stop. Then the winch would not winch in any further nor would it release out. The winch would make a noise when in or out was selected but no turning action. The lever would not turn either to disengage for free spool.
This winch is brand new from QLD. Postage will cost big to send it back from Melb - hence the attempt to solve the problem myself.
This problem happened the very first time I tried to use it, and subsequently when I pulled my trees out.
The motor can be heard when trying to power out so rules out the electrical problem.
May be something in the drum where the gears sit as there are slight wear marks on the barrell in 2 areas (one at 10 o'clock and one at two). This can be seen when the three drive gears are removed and the ring gear (the part the gears drive off) are removed. This ring gear part is very very hard to rotate when sitting in the casing.
What do you think? As I cant see any further issues at this stage.
Thanks heaps
PS what sort of grease should I use on these parts?
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Reply By: Member - Doug T (FNQ) - Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 19:07

Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 19:07
Would be interesting to know what brand it is.

.
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Follow Up By: Member - Warfer (VIC) - Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 20:01

Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 20:01
For christ sake dont mention Chineesee Kyle lol
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Follow Up By: Kylie in the exy - Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 22:25

Wednesday, May 14, 2008 at 22:25
I brought it from 4x4 Point in QLD (im in Melb) and it has been badged as their own ... so quite possibly is a Chinese... I know you told me not to mention it ...
Please guys, dont hold it against me?
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Reply By: Member - Alastair D (NSW) - Thursday, May 15, 2008 at 09:12

Thursday, May 15, 2008 at 09:12
If the ring gears are hard to turn just sitting in the case then I think you have a pointer to the answer. They should be smooth to turn - look for where they are binding.

I think the answer will be something distorted by the torque because I think you have asked too much of what is designed for lighter use. One or two snatch blocks are a cheap way to use a lower design spec unit for heavy work. It does slow the retrieve down but in the end the winch survives.

A courier from melb to brisbane should not be too expensive if you shop around.

I have an electric premier now and have not serviced it yet. In the past I have used valveoline or castrol wheel bearing grease into which I sprinkled some moly disulphide to service a Warn for years. Many years ago I had an electric Thomas winch on a G60 it used transmission oil in the gearbox and grease on the load bearings. Probably the best electric winch I ever had, heavy, big, slow but would pull a train.

Good luck
alastair
AnswerID: 303883

Follow Up By: Kylie in the exy - Thursday, May 15, 2008 at 10:09

Thursday, May 15, 2008 at 10:09
It did take alot of force to turn the ring gears in the case. My plan of action is to take the ring gears out of the case and get some fine emery paper to rub the areas at 10 o'clock and 2 oclock that have the markings on them.
Not sure what you mean by "binding" please?
The very first time I used this 12,000lb winch to recover the vehicle, I believe the winch should have been able to cope( hence why I didnt use the snatch block), however I understand what you are saying. It was on about a 20 degree incline and the winch was run out only about half of the cable.

I really appreciate your time and knowledge Alastair. Thanks for helping me out ;-) Kylie


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Follow Up By: Kylie in the exy - Thursday, May 15, 2008 at 10:23

Thursday, May 15, 2008 at 10:23
Alastair and others,
I have some pics of the casing and gears. Please advise of email address to send to.
Thanks
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FollowupID: 570007

Follow Up By: Kylie in the exy - Monday, May 19, 2008 at 11:41

Monday, May 19, 2008 at 11:41
I did clean back those areas on the casing and regreased it but no good - still jamming.
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