80 Series Fuel Pump Dilemma

Submitted: Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 09:04
ThreadID: 58627 Views:9744 Replies:12 FollowUps:3
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Hi all.

I noticed a slight leak from my fuel pump on the weekend with the fuel leaking from a side plate close to the engine.

I went to see two diesel mechanics yesterday to get an opinion on the best way to fix it. Their eyes glased over and they started calling their inventment advisers, so I guessed it was going to be *expensive*. $3k was the "worst case scenario" for a new pump.

Now ... I have a son who can get me a new one for trade price. I have no idea yet on the final price.

My dilemma, being only slightly mechanically adept, is ... would this be a job for an unskilled amateur, or are there too many tricks etc to run the risk.

I do have workshop manuals (genuine Toyota and Gregorys) but it all looked a bit daunting on first read.

Appreciate your help, advice and recommendations.

Thanks in advance.

Jack
The hurrieder I go, the behinder I get. (Lewis Carroll-Alice In Wonderland)

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Reply By: Member - Jack - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 09:14

Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 09:14
I should have mentioned that the vehicle is a 1991 non-turbo diesel Toyota Landcruiser. Duh!!!!

Thanks again.

Jack
The hurrieder I go, the behinder I get. (Lewis Carroll-Alice In Wonderland)

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AnswerID: 309175

Follow Up By: ross - Friday, Jun 13, 2008 at 12:03

Friday, Jun 13, 2008 at 12:03
You can get new pumps from Ballarat Toyota for under $2000 when they have them on special.
A full rebuild is about the same if you need a new housing,plunger, distributor head and timer piston.

The leak you mentioned is probably the plate on the opposite side from where the turbo models have the ACSD9its blnkedout on a 1HZ).
Its an 20cent o ring but I think you would need to remove the pump.
I had a pump stripped down, cleaned and complete set of gaskets and seals last year (I removed from engine) and it cost $450 inc a bench test.
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Reply By: David - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 09:19

Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 09:19
Hi Jack,

Had the same with my 1993 80 Series, cost $3500 which included rebuilding the pump and new injectors as well. The system had not been done at all before l got the vechile and this was done at 380000km. l would do the injectors as well to make sure all is well and get the experts to do it.

David
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AnswerID: 309177

Reply By: madfisher - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 09:39

Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 09:39
Most normal mechanics will not touch fuel pumps so that is a fair indicator. I know the work area has to be very clean.
Good luck Pete
AnswerID: 309179

Reply By: Member -Signman - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 09:41

Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 09:41
So while the mechanic is calling the 'investment adviser'..
You're calling the 'loans manager'....??
Hope it all work out OK for you.

AnswerID: 309180

Reply By: Member - Matt (Perth-WA) - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 11:30

Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 11:30
Jack, if you can get your hands on a replacement and you have the manual then its pretty straight forward.

The only prob is you need to get your hands on a dial indicator to set the timing correctly.

The rest is just lining up the timing marks and removing and refitting as per the manual.

The rotary pumps are a little like a distrubutor for timing and you rotate them to get the final timing settings. Advance/retard injection.
If the marks are correct on installation then you can do it by ear and just advance till you start to knock then back off slightly.!!!

I would have a go if I was you....just get a good set of metric flare nut spanners (saves the pipe fittings and great for brake work later on) and see if you can borrow a VE pump timing DTI (dial test indicator) i think they sell them on EBAY now!!

All the best mate.

Matt.
AnswerID: 309190

Reply By: Moose - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 13:19

Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 13:19
G'day Jack
Many moons ago the fuel pump on my then 80 series diesel (1991 model) developed a severe leak whilst we were doing the Canning and Simpson. I had it repaired in Alice Springs. It was only in need of seals so cost was only a few hundred $. On return to Brisbane I discovered it was a common problem and that Toyota dealers were repairing for a significantly lower price than I paid.
I see you're in the TLCC - you should ring your technical officer (or someone on the Committee who'll know who to put you in contact with) and see what he has to say.
Cheers from a Qld TLCC member.
AnswerID: 309211

Follow Up By: Member - Jack - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 19:22

Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 19:22
Talk about missing the obvious. Yes, we have a good technical guy in NSW so I will give him a bell. Thanks.
Cheers back ...
Jack
The hurrieder I go, the behinder I get. (Lewis Carroll-Alice In Wonderland)

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Reply By: DarrynJ - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 16:30

Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 16:30
G'day Jack, I'm with Moose on this and suggest you check the gaskets on the pump. I have a 1990 Cruiser tray with a 1HZ and had the same problem which turned out to be the gasket on the top cover of the pump - the one with the throttle shaft through it. New gasket (genuine) and a o ring for the throttle shaft was about $30.00 2 or 3 years ago and its about a half hour job if your handy with the spanners. Just remember to mark the position of the arm on the throttle shaft so it goes back in the same place. The rubber goes hard after a few years and I see your vehicle is a similar age to mine.

Cheers Darryn
AnswerID: 309258

Reply By: udm - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 16:58

Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 16:58
a complete reseal costs around 700, but then the bastards will say you have to rebuild it, costing over 1500... check on ebay for rebuilt ones, usually not more than 1200.

btw, it is very easy to replace some seals on the toyo pumps while on the car (depending which seals), and they are very cheap too.

there is a seal on top which takes about 10min to replace, and an oring on the side which takes another 10min, but if the leaking oring is on the engine side you will have to pull the pump off.

check and let us know which one is leaking, you would normally be able to see the leakage.
AnswerID: 309267

Follow Up By: Member - Jack - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 19:24

Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 19:24
It is the one near the engine that is leaking. I was a bit nervous about removing the pump after had a quick read of the manual. Might have another look tomorrow and pluck up some courage.
jack
The hurrieder I go, the behinder I get. (Lewis Carroll-Alice In Wonderland)

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Reply By: Member - Jack - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 19:25

Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 19:25
Thank you to everyone who responded to my query. Your advice is much appreciated.

Gotta love this site ... I never come away empty when I throw a question to the forum.

Thanks again, and safe travels.

Jack
The hurrieder I go, the behinder I get. (Lewis Carroll-Alice In Wonderland)

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AnswerID: 309312

Reply By: autosparky - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 20:22

Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 20:22
it needs to come off and have some seals replaced . while its out do the top cover seals as well , and have it bench tested. 80 series pumps need to be checked as they go out of timing (td especially) should not cost that much
AnswerID: 309338

Reply By: hillbillie - Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 20:31

Wednesday, Jun 11, 2008 at 20:31
Hi
generally a leak coming from the engine side will be the mechanical advance cover either come loose or "o"ring has gone hard. Easey to repair, once the pump is removed,you wiill see a a small oval cover with 2 allen key bolts, remove them, remove cover, replace "o" ring (a bearing sales shop will have one) reassemble and use Locktite thread locker on bolts as are common to come loose on older pumps . Hardest part is removeing the pump
AnswerID: 309342

Reply By: Top End Explorer Tours - Friday, Jun 13, 2008 at 12:19

Friday, Jun 13, 2008 at 12:19
I had one with a severe leak, to pull it out put a seal kit through and put it back it was about $1200.

Cheers Steve.
AnswerID: 309679

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