MAF Sensor - GU Patrol

Submitted: Sunday, Jun 15, 2008 at 12:25
ThreadID: 58799 Views:4017 Replies:7 FollowUps:2
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Hey Guys,

Been reading a heap about cleaning the MAF sensor to increase power (or lack of). I have a 2003/4 series 3 GU Patrol which has now done about 120k and I can't remember if the MAF has ever been check/replaced/cleaned.

If anyone knows the location and if giving it a squirt with electrical contact cleaner really does make a difference it would be appreciated.

Gonna be under the hood installing a dual battery system today, so while the hands are dirty thought it might be worth a look into.

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Reply By: Member - RFLundgren (WA) - Sunday, Jun 15, 2008 at 12:42

Sunday, Jun 15, 2008 at 12:42
Have you checked the patrol4x4 forum as there is an entire thread on there including pictures in regards to the MAF and cleaning etc.

Cheers

Richard

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AnswerID: 310079

Reply By: Member - BUCUS (WA) - Sunday, Jun 15, 2008 at 12:48

Sunday, Jun 15, 2008 at 12:48
Always the way... I had been searching all morning. Post on the forum here and hey presto, find it on the www.

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12374

Thanks anyway :-)
AnswerID: 310081

Reply By: Member - JASON (WA) - Sunday, Jun 15, 2008 at 16:13

Sunday, Jun 15, 2008 at 16:13
I cleaned my MAF sensor with contact cleaner making sure not to touch the element, also bought a new one to see if their was any difference between the new and the one I had cleaned. The cleaned one is still in and the new maf I keep for a spare !
AnswerID: 310117

Reply By: Member - BUCUS (WA) - Sunday, Jun 15, 2008 at 16:20

Sunday, Jun 15, 2008 at 16:20
Well I have removed it and gave it a clean with electronic circuit board cleaner. Might just be my brain playing tricks but it does seem a lot more responsive.

AnswerID: 310118

Reply By: Muzzgit [WA] - Sunday, Jun 15, 2008 at 20:03

Sunday, Jun 15, 2008 at 20:03
I had trouble with mine about 5 years back. We had been up north WA and had dusty air filter issues (a long story). The air filter was replaced in Port Hedland but the MAFS was only "blown out" with compressed air, and all was well for a while. About 2 months after we got back it started to get slow and wouldn't get going with any kind of load.

At the time several people on exploreoz suggested to clean the MAFS but it made no difference. I bought a new one and the improvement was instant.

I have since had to replace it again and I keep the old one as a spare. It wasnt't completely shot, so it lives in the tool box in the camper, just in case. Personally I think it should be a standard replacement item every 50 thousand klm. Would save a lot of angst
AnswerID: 310179

Follow Up By: Member - BUCUS (WA) - Monday, Jun 16, 2008 at 00:18

Monday, Jun 16, 2008 at 00:18
Did find a bit of red dirt on mine, when I pulled it out. Only a little, but it sounds like it doesn't have to be too much.
Heading up through the Pilbara and Kimberly in a couple of weeks so it may be a sound investment to purchase a spare one (might just replace it and keep the old as a spare) just in case.
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FollowupID: 576271

Follow Up By: Muzzgit [WA] - Monday, Jun 16, 2008 at 23:01

Monday, Jun 16, 2008 at 23:01
As mentioned here abouts, even when they look new they can still send the wrong signal to the cars brain. I personally think this is one of the reasons these motors burn holes in the pistons, but I could be way off the mark.

If you have a dual battery system fitted, check that the seal between the air filter box and where it buts up to the firewall has not been broken. Quite often, to get the second battery tray in, it is necessary to give the air filter box a bit of a push forward which can open up that seal, and this is where mine sucked up a nice gob full of Pilbara red dust!

If you have a snorkel fitted, (if not, why not?) make sure it is sealed properly. Also check that the air filter itself is genuine Nissan. Any air filter you buy for a 3.0 patrol from Repco or Coventrys etc; will be the right shape and size but the element is dry paper (grey) not silicon treated (red).

The grey dry paper element is not to the same standard.

Have fun up north, it's better than this cold wet crap we have in Perth at the moment.
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FollowupID: 576444

Reply By: Chaz - Monday, Jun 16, 2008 at 03:07

Monday, Jun 16, 2008 at 03:07
Cleaning your MAF regularly can improve their life, but some of the burnt on oil mist that generally contaminates them is hard to remove with contact cleaner. CRC sell a product in a pressure can called “MAF Cleaner” so I’m told.

I run diagnostic software in my Patrol and replaced my MAF at 100k and instantly noticed the readings change from 1.9volts to 2.1volts and a slight performance improvement. My old one looked clean, but obviously wasn’t as good as a new one. I always carry a new spare with me on trips.

Many premature MAF failures are due to leaking EGR systems and excessive crankcase blowby oil. The best thing you can do to improve the life of your MAF is to fit a crankcase oil catch can which will reduce the amount of oil residue in the intake system and oil in the intercooler. If you find oil in your intercooler pipes or cooler, chances are you will have MAF issues.
AnswerID: 310245

Reply By: Member - Patrick (QLD) - Tuesday, Jun 17, 2008 at 15:20

Tuesday, Jun 17, 2008 at 15:20
After reading this thread I spoke to my mechanic about cleaning the MAF sensor on my Patrol. He tld me that he had not done this but would be willing to clean mine to see what happens.

I am very pleased to say that the cleaning has resulted in a 'chrisper' running of the motor with better torque in the high gears.

I will get this done every 10K service from now on to ensure optimum performance.

Thanks guys for the tip!

Cheers, Patrick

AnswerID: 310533

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