12V BATTERY OPERATED WELDING

Submitted: Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:08
ThreadID: 59299 Views:10761 Replies:10 FollowUps:15
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Does anyone know of a better deal than this?

12volt welding kit site

I was thinking of 'throwing one in the back' - 'just in case' :-)
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Reply By: Mike Harding - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:27

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:27
>Does anyone know of a better deal than this?

Yeah, me!

Almost anything.

For $300 you appear to be getting 3 bits of wire, a few welding rods and a couple of clips.

How about: some decent jump leads (or indecent ones and two hose clips), a couple of bits of thick wire or fencing wire to link the batteries (+more hoseclips), a piece of welding glass you can tape into a cardboard shield if you have to and a few welding rods.
Total cost = not much and a lot less than $300!

Incidentally; people who know about welding (and I'm not one of them :) say that you really need three batteries to do a decent weld.

Mike Harding
AnswerID: 312731

Follow Up By: Crackles - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:40

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:40
Correct Mike. 3 batteries will push a 3.2mm rod with good penetration for welding shocker mounts or chassis & 2 batteries for 2.5mm rods, welding exhausts & body panels.
Cheers Craig.........
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Reply By: Crackles - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:28

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:28
Not a bad kit although longer leads to get the arc away from the battery gas's would be good. At $300 it could of course be cheaper to buy your own parts & assemble yourself or better still forget the fancy hand piece & just use a pair of heavy duty jumper leads & a short purpose made lead to join the batteries together. As most already have a set of jumper leads it would cost less than $80 for a pack of welding rods, a metre of wire & 2 battery clamps.
Cheers Craig..............
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Reply By: Willem - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:31

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:31
Holy Chicken Manure!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! $299......................!

My outback welding kit cost me about $75 and that includes rods and glass.

We used one on our trip last month. The welder did a great job to stitch a broken wheel carrier together



Cheers
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Follow Up By: guzzi - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:48

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:48
Well it would be a good price if it included the batteries, but it dont.
So as the guys have said you can pick all this up for less than $100, that leaves another 200 for fuel for the trip.
Your call, I know what I'd be doing.
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Reply By: Member - William B (The Shire) - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:31

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:31
Hi KiwiAngler,
Just had a look at that kit.
Seems a bit pricey for what looks like a fairly basic setup, other than the electrode holder the rest appears to be cable and connections.
It doesnt even have the eye protection needed to stop damage to your eyes when welding. (none evident in that site)
Maybe some other forum users can have some imput into the methods/ways of doing some bush welding?
William
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Reply By: Member - Howard (ACT) - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:48

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 17:48
all you blokes are too harsh.
$299 if it included the 2 batteries would be reasonable
withoutbatteries its ripoff.
cheers
howard
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Follow Up By: Member - Andrew (QLD) - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 18:17

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 18:17
From the website:

=========================

12 volt Welding Kit

High strength, high powered welding kit

**Batteries NOT Included**

=========================


Andrew
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Reply By: KiwiAngler - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 19:16

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 19:16
Thanks for all the replies you made me think about this a bit more


I have already got:

2 x 3m (postive and negative) 400amp jumper leads - they both have the 'surge protector' units - will this cause a problem if used for welding?

I have an old welding mask

I have 2 x 130aH deep cycle batteries

I don't have a purpose made welding rod holder - can thse be bought seperately? - can I 'improvise' (safely) using something else?

so 'basically' I already have 90% of the kit - correct?

AnswerID: 312755

Follow Up By: KiwiAngler - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 19:18

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 19:18
CLARIFICATION:

I already have 2 SETS of 3mt jumper leads - that means 2 +ve and 2-ve leads
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Follow Up By: Member - Footloose - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 19:33

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 19:33
What about something to protect your hands ?
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Follow Up By: Crackles - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 19:49

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 19:49
A special welding hand piece is not required. I drilled a 4mm hole near the end of the jumper lead to simply put the rod into. The clamp holds it tight. As Mike mentioned its important to fit the clamps tight on the terminals (with hose clamps or similar) as if even slightly loose they can arc, melting the lead.
Cheers Craig............
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Follow Up By: Member - Footloose - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 20:23

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 20:23
A Hah. So that's why my welding son talks about people "arcing up"...they have a screw loose :))
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Follow Up By: KiwiAngler - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 20:32

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 20:32
Footloose

Good point

I also have a pair of old welders gloves :-)
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Follow Up By: KiwiAngler - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 20:34

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 20:34
What about the surge protectors??

Will they cause any issues??
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Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 20:46

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 20:46
Vice grips will hold a rod. Use hose clamp to hold cable onto one leg of the vice grips. I carry a short length of heavy cable with a lug on both ends to join battery cterminal clamps. My vehicle battery terminal clamps have bolt on lug connectors.

You will also have to keep your rods in a clean, dry plastic bag (suck the air out and seal). Damp rods are @#* hard to use.
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Follow Up By: Bonz (Vic) - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 20:48

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 20:48
Kiwi methinx them surge protectors are to protect against higher voltage spikes they should be fine for welding

hnmmmm KiwiAngler and Kiwi Kia, things could get Kiwier in here :0)
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Follow Up By: Member - Kiwi Kia - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 20:56

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 20:56
Hi Bonz, Deep snow down south - winter has really arrived. Wonder how a big camper would go with chains ?

We are off to Cape York in August and then over to Perth in September.

R.

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Follow Up By: KiwiAngler - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 20:57

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 20:57
Bonz

Bu$$er - you have seen what we are up to - slowly - very slowly we (Kiwi's) have been infiltrating this forum - 1st the Forum THEN the world - muhahhhhhhahaaaaa
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Follow Up By: Bonz (Vic) - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 21:01

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 21:01
Ahhh Cape York, one day one day, I cant wait to do that trip......

Chains on the camper would be great with a PTO drive from the rear diff to the driven camper wheels....... Enjoy the trip mate

And KiwiAngler, the more we talk different the more we are the same mate, when we were in Franz Joseph we were chatting to a pilot there and mentioned that they must take the puss out of Aussies just like we do out of the UnZudders, Sure DO! he said We then asked him to say SIX and giggled our heads off when we said SIX he did the same. hahahaha

Different eyes same outcome
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 21:04

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 21:04
I'm a backyarder when it comes to welding, but this is what I do.

We've needed 3 batteries whenever we've needed to weld. But 3 batteries packs a lot of punch.
I take
the lead off my home arc welder,
An old welding mask,
Two short lengths of 4Ga wire and 4 worm clamps to join the batteries in series.
A jumper lead for the earth.

A good file is handy for cleaning up the area to be welded, and to knock the slag off, and have a wire brush stored inside some 40mm plastic pipe. A bunch of 2.5mm Satincraft rods in a sealed plastic bag. A flat board (say a jackplate) is handy to put bits on when you're lining up and tack welding. And some pieces of flat mild steel, and a hacksaw to cut them. I clamp steel to the side of the tray with vice grips to cut it to size.
AnswerID: 312784

Reply By: Member - Clive G (NZ) - Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 21:44

Saturday, Jun 28, 2008 at 21:44
Kiwiangler.
Yes you have most of a set already. The advertised set is a mighty ripoff. Not sure about the surge protector on your jumper leads, what I have done with mine is cut one of the protector fly leads then reconnect it with a screw connector, then I can just disconnect it while welding. You can get a hand piece from BOC or Weldwell, get them to put about 500mm of lead on it for you. Though Crackles idea with the 4mm hole sounds good. Rods are an issue, with a lot of people opting for GP type grades because they are easy to use, however they are meant for mild steel only and we are seeing less of that now on vehicles and commercial trailers. A good compromise is a Stainless 316L rod, which covers a range of steel grades and is still relatively easy to use. As Mike said three batteries are better than one because 36volt makes for easier starting and maintaining the arc, 24v is really only for a practiced welder. There is a simple way of controlling current (amps) if you want to be bothered. Take a length of 3.2mm Dia wire (No 8 fencing will do) say 500mm long and clamp one end tightly to the battery terminal going to the other battery (the link). Then clamp with vise grips (tightly) the terminal of the next battery somewhere along the length of the wire. Clamping right at the end will give max resistance and less current, sliding the joint along the wire towards the first battery (shorter link) will increase the current. You now have a fully adjustable welder. Just be careful of the heat generated in the adjusting wire though. I always carry this set up with me as the 500mm of wire can be folded in half to fit in a welding rod packet.
There is a good article on the “Lcool.com” site on battery welding, good that is until he gets to the point of welding without a lense or helmet but just shuts his eyes. That is a really stupid thing to do.
Regards. CliveG. NZ.

Yet another Kiwi. if it gets any worse the site will have to be renamed ExplorNZ. ha ha. Now hiding under the bed.
AnswerID: 312799

Follow Up By: KiwiAngler - Sunday, Jun 29, 2008 at 08:23

Sunday, Jun 29, 2008 at 08:23
CliveG

Excellent reply

Thanks for the Lcool link - I had forgotten that one

I 'used' to have a Toyota 100 series, and the Lcool site was my next most favourite site after ExplorOz of course :-).

Now that I have come over to 'the dark side' (Nissan Patrol) I hadn't been looking at Lcool - it DOES have some good stuff on that site.

I reckon if we did a poll on the site to see how many fellow Kiwi's come here I think it would suprise a lot of people - we do like our adventures and 4x4ing :-)) cheers mate
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Reply By: Member - morry H (WA) - Sunday, Jun 29, 2008 at 03:20

Sunday, Jun 29, 2008 at 03:20
hi kiwi angler last centry while i had the shell garage in norseman . i also had a tow truck and i fited a purpose built alternator it put out 240 volts as well as a welder .i think it was a unit from the (capricorn society.) may be wrong and this worked well this was built with a bosch unit all you needed to do was put leads on alternator start engine and away you worked regards morry
AnswerID: 312815

Reply By: Member - Tony B (QLD) - Sunday, Jun 29, 2008 at 08:36

Sunday, Jun 29, 2008 at 08:36
You could go this way - Ebay has inverter welders, go for aroun $150, specs as follows: 0nly 5.6kg. Regards Tony

INCLUDES MANUAL, MASK AND ACCESSORIES!SPECIFICATIONS:
Rated input current 19.5A
Rated input voltage 230 V
Rated frequency 50HZ
Rated output current 140A
Rated output voltage 25.6V
Non-Load Voltage 78V
Rated Duty Cycle 20% at 140A & 60% at 80A
Load current 140A
Input Capacity 4.5 KW
Class of Insulation H
Applied Welding Rod 1.6-3.2mm
Fuse 16A
Case Protection Degree IP21
Arc-Starting COS 0.9
Efficiency 80%
Weight 5.6kg
AnswerID: 312824

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