Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 14:30
Dock
I think the feeling you get through the steering could have a lot to do with the type of tyres and wheels. My car has stock size wheels with 205 tyres. I noticed by looking at the front
suspension and imagining a line extending down through the ball joint centre line to the road, it appears to have some scrub radius but not very much. It would not take much effort from the steering to turn the wheels.
On the other hand, cars with wider after market wheels often have the extra width on the outside for ball joint clearance. This increases the scrub radius and when coupled with larger tyres and a locked diff, the steering could be much heavier.
I noticed the steering was not the same when I first drove my car. I could only describe is as slightly different, not heavy or anything like that. After about ten ks it felt normal and has been the same ever since.
quote
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"This is because the diff is locked until one wheel loses traction and the diff can then act as a normal diff. You have to get used to backing off the accelerator to allow it to uncouple."
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I don't think this is quite the right way to describe them. They are really unlocked all the time until one wheel looses traction because the wheels are almost always turning at different speeds.
Try stopping in the middle of a straight section of sealed road with no traffic then get out and put a chalk mark at the top of each front tyre. Drive forward for a few hundred metres without turning the steering wheel if possible then get out and
check the marks. You can just about guarantee they will no longer be lined up. One wheel will have turned more than the other because of irregularities in the road surface and slightly different circumferences of the tyres due to varying amounts of wear and even manufacturer's tolerances when new. This difference on wheel speed becomes even greater when you turn the steering wheel and you can imagine what it would be like on rough bush tracks with endless large boulders, holes and corners.
As long as the tyres can maintain traction during any of those conditions, including a straight sealed road, those driving teeth in the diff are going to be sliding up and over each other and the diff is not going to be locked. They may be doing it so slowly and quietly that you can't hear them on some of the straighter and smoother roads but they will be doing it. If they were not then the tyres would be slipping and you would wear them out in record time.
The diff is never a "normal" diff like an open one because one wheel is always being driven. It will have all of the driving torque being applied to it by the drive shaft while the other one is being turned ahead of it by road applied torque if it has a longer distance to travel. The instant the driving wheel looses traction, it will slip and the diff carrier cross shaft that is driving it will rotate forward about a millimetre and come into contact with the ramp on the cam hole on the other side and start driving that wheel as
well. The diff is now locked and it will stay that way until any one of the wheels is once again driven forward by road contact.
I have heard people say they have had to touch the throttle quickly on steep down
hill bends but so far I have not had to do it.
This link gives you a good idea of how they work and covers what happens under down
hill engine braking. Most descriptions cover driving forward only. When you read this you can see that they should uncouple while going around steep down
hill corners. Only extreme conditions like ice, snow, sand or some types of mud should stop them.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TrueTrac.shtml#Locker
Brian
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