Detroit v's Lockright v's Aussie Lokka

Submitted: Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 20:20
ThreadID: 60656 Views:14819 Replies:12 FollowUps:32
This Thread has been Archived
Hi all....
Am going to put an auto locker in the front of my 79 series ute has anyone any first hand expierience with these..
Concerns are steering and noise i believe the rear lockers are not too good on the road if i did both.. they all have pros and cons including air lockers...
Cheers for your help...
Back Expand Un-Read 0 Moderator

Reply By: Member - Peter D M - Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 20:43

Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 20:43
hi towie, just curious
where were you thinking of getting your aussie lokka from?

regards peter
AnswerID: 320030

Follow Up By: Isuzumu - Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 20:54

Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 20:54
He would be getting it from 4WD Systems in Adelaide Peter, I have one in the front diff of the MU (Isuzu same as yours) works great, just don't give it to mush hurbs in rocky country other wise you might brake something (CVs, rip blocks off Cooper STs) put worth the money.
One you must realise is you have to take the front end out of your vehicle (Rodeo) to fit it don't know about the Toyota.

Cheers Bruce.
0
FollowupID: 586651

Follow Up By: Member - Peter D M - Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 21:12

Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 21:12
hi bruce,
thanks for the info. i've bought a lock rite lokka from 4wd systems a few years ago. but its great to see you can now buy the aussie lokka from them. How much was yours?

regards peter
0
FollowupID: 586672

Follow Up By: Isuzumu - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 07:29

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 07:29
Hi Peter, I think it was $575 delivered, they now make a rear one for the MU now to.

Cheers Bruce
0
FollowupID: 586720

Reply By: Member - Hughesy (NSW) - Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 21:07

Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 21:07
Hi Towie,

Alot of people seem to knock the 4WD Systems Lokka but I had one (front of 75 series) and I rekocn the key to it working properly is the installation. The instructions are very strict on the measurements (can't remember what they are now) and if you get it wrong it won't work/operate properly (as designed).

People whinge about the noise and clunking etc...I never had that. The only thing I will say is that it did make the steering slightly heavier when (AND ONLY WHEN) in 4x4. But with power steering I thought it was a small price to pay for having the lokka and the price saving over an airlocker.

How they would stand up to the real heavy duty use (competition) I don't know - mine never gave me any dramas.

Now I'm not saying all 4WD Systems gear is good because I bought one of their snorkels for the 75 and it was a cr&^% kit if you ask me.

There will be that many different opinions on here mate that it will probably only make the decision harder.....but good luck ;)
AnswerID: 320035

Reply By: Dennis Ellery - Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 21:41

Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 21:41
I have factory fitted Toyota front and rear electric lockers on a new Troopy.
I am not sure if they will sell them as an aftermarket spare part or not.
Toyota advise that you shouldnt use them at speeds above 8kph.
I have used them at 20ks but you have to watch it as she tries to do her own thing and steering is difficult.
You can't use lockers on the open road - too dangerous - you have to run with both diffs open.
AnswerID: 320041

Follow Up By: Towie - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 07:37

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 07:37
Thanks Dennis i will check with Pacific Toyota in Cairns
0
FollowupID: 586723

Follow Up By: Member - John (Vic) - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 14:40

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 14:40
The Toyota lockers are factory fit as in the real deal of being installed when the vehicle is built.
Can't be fitted as an aftermarket accessory you will need ARB Air Lockers if you want an aftermarket locker.

"You can't use lockers on the open road - too dangerous - you have to run with both diffs open"

Why would you even consider using lockers on the open road??
VKS737 - Mobile 6352 (Selcall 6352)

Lifetime Member
My Profile  Send Message

0
FollowupID: 586782

Follow Up By: Dennis Ellery - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 19:08

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 19:08
Read the original post John.
0
FollowupID: 586822

Follow Up By: Member - John (Vic) - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 21:22

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 21:22
I did and he was referring to Auto Lockers, your post referenced Toyota's Electric Lockers, hence my query.
VKS737 - Mobile 6352 (Selcall 6352)

Lifetime Member
My Profile  Send Message

0
FollowupID: 586842

Reply By: Splits - Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 23:06

Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 23:06
Towie & Megs

I have a Lokka in the front of my Hilux and it is the best $499 I ever spent. The only difference I have noticed in the steering is a slight tendency to self centre a little faster. Only once have I experienced heavy and difficult steering and that was while climbing up and around a steep and very muddy corner that lasted for about 30 metres. Both wheels were driving and loosing traction and the car was trying to steer itself. Exactly the same thing would have been happening with an air locker. That would not have happened had the corner been dry. Had any one of the wheels lost traction, it would have locked instantly and let go the moment either one of them regained enough contact with the road to turn faster than the other.

In operation one wheel is always either driving forward or holding the car back under engine braking. It can't have no wheels driving. This is probably why you feel the slight difference in self centering. The other wheel is always free to turn either faster than the driven wheel if it has a longer distance to travel and can maintain traction or slower than the wheel holding the car back under engine braking if it has a shorter distance to travel. You don't get heavy steering because two wheels on the same axle rarely, if ever, turn at exactly the same speed so it is almost always unlocked. The only exception would be if you were driving for any distance in mud or maybe sand and the wheel with the longest distance to travel was unable to get enough traction to turn itself ahead of the other. That is what happened on that muddy hill that I mentioned earlier but in situatiuons like that you want both wheels locked anyway.

This is why I have found it has made such a huge difference to the car on mountain tracks. I have a IFS model and it often lifts front wheels. If the one that lifts had been driving, the diff would lock instantly and the other wheel would take over. If the one on the ground had been driving, the car would keep going. The wheel in the air would not cause you to loose all traction like you would with an open diff. The moment they are both on the ground again and had traction, one would start turning faster than the other and the diff would unlock and revert to one wheel driving again.

This locking and unlocking might happen a dozen times for a second or two on a long rough hill but you don't feel it. All the driver notices is the car seems to be going forward with a lot less drama and wheel spin than it did without the Lokka. The thing locks at the exact moment you need it and goes back to one wheel only driving the moment either wheel is being driven faster by road contact.

I have free wheeling hubs but I often leave them locked in on sealed roads in 2wd while travelling between bush tracks. There are no steering problems while doing this except I can hear a slight muffled knocking noise once you get about a quarter turn or more on the steering wheel on corners.

You can hear the same knocking noise on full lock in camping areas or tight corners on tracks. It would sound alarming to many people if they did not know what it was but it is normal and is not doing any harm.

If you fitted one to the rear diff, you would hear the same knocking on some corners depending on how tight they were. The only time it could possible cause a few problems is any time a wheel lost traction. It would instantly lock if that happened and could cause some degree of rear wheel steering. The only time that is likely to happen is if you put your foot down a little too quickly on wet sealed roads, particularly on sharp corners, and the inside wheel lost traction.

That is why car manufactureres don't fit auto lockers as standard equipment. They would be a disaster in the hands of some drivers but if you know exactly how they work and drive according to the conditions, you shouild not have any problems with them.

I fitted mine myself but I would not recommend it to anyone unless they had a workshop manual in addition to the Lokka's fitting instructions. I have had a fair amount of diff experience and I thought the instructions were not detailed enough. I can see a lot of inexperienced people getting into trouble if those instructions were all they had to go by.

Brian
AnswerID: 320054

Follow Up By: That Troopy Bloke (SA) - Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 23:21

Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 23:21
Errrr....you sure about all that?

Cheers
Glenn
0
FollowupID: 586713

Follow Up By: Splits - Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 23:42

Saturday, Aug 09, 2008 at 23:42
If I have said something wrong Glenn then let me know and we can discuss it.

Brian
0
FollowupID: 586714

Follow Up By: Towie - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 07:35

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 07:35
Thanks Splits very helpful and informative....
0
FollowupID: 586722

Follow Up By: Member - Mfewster(SA) - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 09:35

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 09:35
I have the Auto Locka fitted to the front of a 60 series Toyo. It has been great, especially in sandune country. No experience in the kind of conditions Robin M describes. I think Splits info is completely accurate. Not sure what Troopy Bloke means????
0
FollowupID: 586735

Follow Up By: Member - Matt (Perth-WA) - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 13:58

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 13:58
Spot on Splits!! Great response, hows your fingers after all that typing though!

I have fitted three Lokkas from 4WD systems and myself and my two mates love them and they perform exactly as you described.

Peoples problem with them breaking CVs is the same with ANY locker if you drive like a maniac. I like the fact I can climb with less speed and more control and after 300 000km my CVs are still the originals.

Keep up the good responses.

Matt.
0
FollowupID: 586775

Follow Up By: Towie - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 14:17

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 14:17
Thanks Matt love that feedback
0
FollowupID: 586778

Follow Up By: Splits - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 15:33

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 15:33
"Peoples problem with them breaking CVs is the same with ANY locker if you drive like a maniac. I like the fact I can climb with less speed and more control and after 300 000km my CVs are still the originals."

Thanks Matt, that is some more useful information. I was wondering about axles and CVs because auto lockers apply all drive shaft torque to a single wheel unless they are locked which is not very often. An open diff distributes the torque proportionally to each wheel and only gives one the whole lot when it is spinning without traction and the other one is sitting still. I thought maybe all of the torque could be too much for an axle and CV joint that is designed for a portion of it.

Someone on another site recently said they got about 170,000 ks out of a Lokka before they sold the car. You say you have 300,000 which is even better. I doubt if I am going to have any problems then.

I have also noticed you can approach things with a little less haste and more control. I also don't drive like a maniac. I gave that up decades ago after selling my sports car. I could never understand why the car in front was always going slower than me back then. These days I prefer to sit back and watch the scenery.

Don't worry about the typing, I like these discussions. We all learn a lot. The fingers are ok. I only use two so there are plenty in reserve.

Brian
0
FollowupID: 586789

Follow Up By: Member - Matt (Perth-WA) - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 16:40

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 16:40
Brian you are spot on abou the CV/axle action....with any locker you can keep momentum going with only ONE wheel with traction. That has to be remembered when ever you are driving.

The front axles of most 4wds are the weakest point, smaller diff/axles and the use of CVs. Pre-locker if both front wheels were not gripping you got little to no assistance from the front end...lift one wheel and you got zero!

Now as you said with any locker fitted you can keep momentum going, potentially with the total weight on that one axle/cv. If you drive aggressively there is a good chance of shocking the driveline and breaking something...with IFS usually the CV.

My Isuzu had 290 000km when I sold it and changed the driveline from the MU into my Rodeo. I think I misslead you accidently...the locker has done about 60 000km but all up the CVs have done well over 300 000 and are original.

I had a few mates with identical Isuzu MUs and without changing their driving style they broke their CVs very soon after fitting the locker. I attribute this to VERY demanding 4wdriving and a fair amount of abuse...they thought it was fair and loved the locker.

Mine is still going strong despite the KMs and going most of the same places, just a tad more sedately (mine was a daily driver too).

I must admit...I think the locker is stronger than the front spider gears in the Isuzu..so I believe it is an upgrage in strength. Seen heaps of the spiders just explode and never heard of any lockers.

All the best Brian

Matt.
0
FollowupID: 586797

Reply By: Member - Doug T NT - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 06:03

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 06:03
Towie
I have the full no stuffin' around Detroit No-Spin Auto Locker both ends of my Troopie, I very seldom know it's there , occasionaly you get a click from the rear when starting off, apart from that no problems, with the front hubs locked you can notice a slight heaviness in the steering , I had no steering problems in the Simpson , But I guess I'm wasting my time because like many others you'll want the cheaper products
gift by Daughter

Lifetime Member
My Profile  My Blog  Send Message

AnswerID: 320061

Follow Up By: Rock Ape - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 06:45

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 06:45
Doug
I also run detriots and have had the same experiences as you.

Have also been told the Aussie locker is a great unit by many, especially by a respected 4wd shop owner who is a specialist in diff and gearbox rebuilds and fitting lockers (all brands)

0
FollowupID: 586718

Reply By: Member - Doug T NT - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 06:16

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 06:16
Towie
Check out this website for some very good information on the subject.

Diff Lock Info

.
gift by Daughter

Lifetime Member
My Profile  My Blog  Send Message

AnswerID: 320062

Follow Up By: Towie - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 07:34

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 07:34
Thanks Doug what a great unbiased opinion and fairly well convinces you to install an auto locker especially to the front as i was thinking... cheers
0
FollowupID: 586721

Reply By: Towie - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 07:32

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 07:32
Wow thanks fella's that is great i did alot of searching the internet last night also..
All your info is greatly and much appreciated..
Will have it pro-installed as im not close to that mechanically minded. Live in FNQ so we can be on the Maytown track in 2 hrs the OTL in a day and half and the Crebb Track in 45 mins....
Not into competition so i will fit one front and all being well a rear later if needed..
Am alittle concirned about the back for on road driving??
I know the Detroit is the ducks guts but have not done any pricing yet, will be done in Cairns so i will check local costs first.
I agree with the ARB airlockers being too expensive also, no need for them unless you have $$$ to burn...
Cheers Towie
AnswerID: 320065

Follow Up By: Member - Doug T NT - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 08:11

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 08:11
Towie
Have you checked out the OX , find the link on my 4X4 Page

.
gift by Daughter

Lifetime Member
My Profile  My Blog  Send Message

0
FollowupID: 586724

Reply By: Robin Miller - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 08:09

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 08:09
Hi Towie

I have had both types and tested them under varying and controlled conditions.

While their is no-doubt they work well in some conditions like steep rocky uphills their is no doubt that they are bad news in others, so you need to think carefully about the
type of driving you do.

The dangers are that on slippery conditions the auto-locker can cause understeer which can throw you of a track very fast.
I have seen and helped out specific cases of vehicles being thrown of both icy and slippery clay roads because of the action of locking the wheels together and the force required to be generated by the road surface to unlock is great enough
that the wheels break traction and slide first.

The overall net effect of driving around Victorian tracks is that with an auto locker in the front of our patrol we had to spend a lot less time in 4wd for fear of loss of control of the front end.

The can present a further problem if your car has low bottom end torque, as many cars like patrol can't select between 2wd and 4wd when in low range unless you stop and unlock the hubs. THis becomes im practical when driving in a convoy or with a club.

Our current car (4800 patrol) has so much power in rarely needs low range and hence the steering effects of a locka can be minimized by swapping it in an out of 4wd without stopping.

We had a lock-rite brand and the Detroit type is a better type with less side effects as in takes only about 1/2 the degrees of rotation of a wheel before it unlocks.

These days we use front and rear ARB lockers , and the more effective and cheaper option of chains when things get serious.

(Yesterday we again rounded a slippery corner with a moderate uphill with wheels sliping and engaged both lockers only to progress forward just 2 more meters - thank heavens we had our chains)




Robin Miller

Member
My Profile  Send Message

AnswerID: 320068

Follow Up By: Splits - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 13:06

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 13:06
Robin

So far I have not had that problem except for that one incident. Since fitting it, I have driven in all of the conditions that you mentioned, including VHC but not in ice.

I found while checking it after fitting, I could set one wheel hard back in the drive position and chock it there on the ground then turn the other one in the opposite direction with just my finger tips on the tyre. I could hear the gear teeth sliding over themselves and making a knocking noise but it releaed as easy as can be.

I agree it can happen though. The wheel that is trying to turn faster must have traction otherwise it will lag back leaving the centre gear cam hole in contact with the carrier cross shaft and it will continue to be driven along with the other one.

I have heard many people say that staying locked is common in loose sand. I have been in plenty of mud but not beach sand and have no interest in driving on it.

It no doubt pays to be aware of these things and tread carefully in anything approaching difficult conditions until you gain experience.

Brian
0
FollowupID: 586766

Follow Up By: Robin Miller - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 13:36

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 13:36
It is also a pressure related issue Brian.

A good test is to try it turning hard left lock and flooring it.
if your not on your toes it can almost pull the steering wheel out of your hands.

I have some pictures some where of various attempts at big red (12 consectutive runs) , and the lokka locking up and causing underster prevented the car from getting over the top.

It got as far in 2wd actually. The extra difference being that the locked axles really drain the power when understeering in the sand.

On the other side , several times I was saved by the lokka when I would not have made it with the ARB , and that is because its always in and doesn't require thinking then selection.
That 1 or 2 first seconds can be enough to kept the momentum
to get one across an ostacle.


Robin Miller

Member
My Profile  Send Message

0
FollowupID: 586770

Follow Up By: Splits - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 15:05

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 15:05
Thakns Robin

The wheel trying to pull itself out of my hands is how mine felt on that steep and very muddy corner that I mentioned. I have been in plenty of other muddy situations where there was so much sliding going on that the diff would have to have been locked but there was no pulling. It looks like you have to be in just the right place at the right time to get it and fortunately that is not very often.

I am not surprised about the problems in loose sand. You are not the first person I have heard say that. I am not going to have that problem on beaches because there is no way I am ever going to drive onto them. I have not crossed the Simpson yet but that will most likely happen in the next couple of years. It looks like I could have an interesting time on Big Red. It should be a bit easier though when you are aware something like that can happen before you start. Maybe I should confuse the thing and go up in reverse!

Not having to decide when to turn a locker on is one of the main features that I like with auto lockers. I remember the first time I took this car out. I was with a few friends and did not have the Lokka at that stage. I followed them up a long steep hill that I thought I had no hope of getting up. The car lurched, lifted and spun wheels and sent rocks flying everwhere but it made it. Had I had an air locker, I would have switched it on, fought the steering all the way up, put a lot of stress on the drive train by forcing the wheels to drive at the same speed all the way and got to the top thinking thank heavens for the locker because I would never have made it without it.

I have been up that hill many times since with the Lokka. I don't know how many times it locked and uncoupled but the car went up a hell of a lot easier each time with no trouble steering it.

Brian
0
FollowupID: 586783

Reply By: Member - dock - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 11:36

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 11:36
Howie
I have had a lock-rite diff lock in the front axle of the Troopy for 3years now and love it. I actually took it out of the 80series I had before the Troopy. (just put back the original spider gears that the lock-rite replaces, ask the mechanic for them when he does the job and pack them away in lots of grease so you can swap them back if you sell the Troopy.)

My understanding of how they work is that it acts like locked limited slip differential. LSD at their simplest are a cone clutch held together by spring pressure and it releases when one wheel tries to go faster than the opposite one. Lock rites do the same job but are a dog clutch with teeth (held together with spring pressure) that give a positive grip and so dont slip when put under pressure hence a locked diff. Have a squiz at them before you put it in and it will explain it better than I have above.

They do make the steering harder but not excessively. Actually lets you know that you have got it 4WD. I have not had any trouble with it wanting to understeer at high speeds but it can feel as though it doesn't want to turn when going round a really slippery hair pin bend This is because the diff is locked until one wheel loses traction and the diff can then act as a normal diff. You have to get used to backing off the accelerator to allow it to uncouple. This is in my opinion where this diff locks shine as it is in effect an automatic unlocker as oppposed to air lockers where in the same position you would have to flick a switch to get around the corner. The same in sand as it couples and uncouples automatically allowing you to get a lot further than normal open diffs. In a staight line air lockers will win hands down but are about 4 times the price.

The noise you hear when turning under pressure is the teeth engaging and disengaging and should not be of any concern. They dont like hard turns on bitumen as they load the system up and they go off with a bit of a bang but you should not be in 4WD on a hard surface.(you only do this once!)

Even though the LSD in the rear diffs in Toyotas are cosidered useless after about 30 thousand K's I wouldnt bother with one in the rear as in a lot of situations you have a lot weight over the back wheels and it is usually one of the front wheels that breaks loose and stops you from going any further ie up a steep hill.

Hope this helps
AnswerID: 320101

Follow Up By: Towie - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 13:45

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 13:45
Good sensible stuff Dock...thanks
0
FollowupID: 586772

Follow Up By: Splits - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 14:30

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 14:30
Dock

I think the feeling you get through the steering could have a lot to do with the type of tyres and wheels. My car has stock size wheels with 205 tyres. I noticed by looking at the front suspension and imagining a line extending down through the ball joint centre line to the road, it appears to have some scrub radius but not very much. It would not take much effort from the steering to turn the wheels.

On the other hand, cars with wider after market wheels often have the extra width on the outside for ball joint clearance. This increases the scrub radius and when coupled with larger tyres and a locked diff, the steering could be much heavier.

I noticed the steering was not the same when I first drove my car. I could only describe is as slightly different, not heavy or anything like that. After about ten ks it felt normal and has been the same ever since.

quote
-----------------------------------
"This is because the diff is locked until one wheel loses traction and the diff can then act as a normal diff. You have to get used to backing off the accelerator to allow it to uncouple."
-------------------------------------

I don't think this is quite the right way to describe them. They are really unlocked all the time until one wheel looses traction because the wheels are almost always turning at different speeds.

Try stopping in the middle of a straight section of sealed road with no traffic then get out and put a chalk mark at the top of each front tyre. Drive forward for a few hundred metres without turning the steering wheel if possible then get out and check the marks. You can just about guarantee they will no longer be lined up. One wheel will have turned more than the other because of irregularities in the road surface and slightly different circumferences of the tyres due to varying amounts of wear and even manufacturer's tolerances when new. This difference on wheel speed becomes even greater when you turn the steering wheel and you can imagine what it would be like on rough bush tracks with endless large boulders, holes and corners.

As long as the tyres can maintain traction during any of those conditions, including a straight sealed road, those driving teeth in the diff are going to be sliding up and over each other and the diff is not going to be locked. They may be doing it so slowly and quietly that you can't hear them on some of the straighter and smoother roads but they will be doing it. If they were not then the tyres would be slipping and you would wear them out in record time.

The diff is never a "normal" diff like an open one because one wheel is always being driven. It will have all of the driving torque being applied to it by the drive shaft while the other one is being turned ahead of it by road applied torque if it has a longer distance to travel. The instant the driving wheel looses traction, it will slip and the diff carrier cross shaft that is driving it will rotate forward about a millimetre and come into contact with the ramp on the cam hole on the other side and start driving that wheel as well. The diff is now locked and it will stay that way until any one of the wheels is once again driven forward by road contact.

I have heard people say they have had to touch the throttle quickly on steep down hill bends but so far I have not had to do it.

This link gives you a good idea of how they work and covers what happens under down hill engine braking. Most descriptions cover driving forward only. When you read this you can see that they should uncouple while going around steep down hill corners. Only extreme conditions like ice, snow, sand or some types of mud should stop them.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/TrueTrac.shtml#Locker
Brian
0
FollowupID: 586781

Reply By: westozal - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 12:18

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 12:18
Hello,
Ive had both airlockers and a detriot diff lock in a couple of previous Patrol's and an 80 series(air Locker rear).
I was happy with both however there are less things to go wrong with the detriot (was in a Maverick)as it is set and forget, I had no problems steering on or offroad, in fact I forgot to free the hubs for a week and didnt really notice other than the fleeting thought the car needed a wheel alignment due to a slight propensity to tramtrack.
It was in the front obviously.
If I was going to do my current Patrol I would be putting a locker in the front, I thought personally that front and rear lockers were overkill for a touring vehicle.
I have a couple of friends with the lokka in their Patrols (in front ,they are both 4800's and get driven hard offroad)and they seem quite happy with them and for the price it seems a good option,but get the lokka fitted professionally.
Regards Alan


AnswerID: 320105

Follow Up By: Towie - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 13:55

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 13:55
Thanks Alan, i will be sourcing a front Locker this week.
As yet do not know which brand i like the feedback on Detroits probably the Sf Detroit but will check prices first..
Dont care if the Detroit is alot more $$$$ as long as its as good as they say...
Like to have things that are set and forget - and semi unbreakable..
So we end up with a 79 series RV ute 4.2 td chipped with a Safari Dtronic that makes bleep loads of power and torque...
With Cooper STT's heavy duty suspension all round at 3inch lift and a front Detroit probably..
New tyres soon and want to soften the 600kg leafs in the rear and we need alot more travell...
Thanks for all the info guys....
0
FollowupID: 586774

Follow Up By: westozal - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 14:17

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 14:17
Hi Towie,
Just a clue on prices.. I think the lokka is about $500 plus fitting which i'd guestimate about $250.
I priced a detriot about 2 mnths ago which came in at $1800 fitted. This was in WA at a 4wd place in Balcatta, formerly Opp Lock.
An air locker is about the same price but you need to add the cost of the compressor to the price so hence would be approx $2300.
Personally I thought the detriot was good and wouldn't hesitate putting another in this Patrol.
All the Best
Alan.
0
FollowupID: 586777

Follow Up By: Member - Porl - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 19:28

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 19:28
I was quoted about $1,350 to drive in, leave vehicle, and drive out, with a Detroit rear locker fitted (soflocker is the current model). That was at Diff Lappers Kedron (got a website, just google it) in Brisbane. I ended up getting a truetrac front and rear, long story on another thread, happy so far but haven't done much to fully test, what I didn't say in my thread was I was hoping to avoid the pitfalls of fully locked wheels in soft situations, and my wife expressed that "don't f#cken buy it" look when I described issues of understeer and tracking issues on wet bitumen and tight turns with a full locker, so for the moment the truetrac it is.
0
FollowupID: 586826

Follow Up By: Towie - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 15:30

Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 15:30
mmmmmmm i think youl find thats the unit no way anyone is going to fit a Detroit for under $1800 or there abouts.... so if you can still get ... grab it
0
FollowupID: 586974

Follow Up By: Member - Porl - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 16:26

Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 16:26
Hey Towie

That quote for $1,350 for the rear was from last week, do the sums, maybe it's worth a trip to Moreton and a drop in to Diff Lappers at Kedron. They put my truetracs in over 24hrs, only held up cause I had bleep some bits in my cr@p IFS diff they needed to replace, kids now having oily fun with the old bits, can't wait to weld them into something interesting.'

Also, it might be cheaper for yours, email them from the website.
0
FollowupID: 586990

Follow Up By: Towie - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 17:15

Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 17:15
I rang and spoke to i think Tim and perhaps the rear is different he quoted me around $1800 fitted to 2006 79 Series 4.2td cruiser ute but they only do the rear no front Detroit available for my model... So did you get a Detroit Truetrac LSD front and rear as they maight be significantly cheaper i dont know... cheers
0
FollowupID: 586996

Follow Up By: Member - Porl - Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 09:00

Tuesday, Aug 12, 2008 at 09:00
Hi Towie

Sorry mate, I thought it would be same ballpark, mine is a 2000 model Hilux so i guess the parts have been round for yonks and the diffs certainly have been.

Sounds to me like you should go for the full locker in back by your excellent photo selection if you can't get anything for the front, mind you part of the motivation for my front end was the 7.5" Hilux IFS preponderance for one front wheel to lift and spin and then when it lands it destroys the diff, getting a front and rear LSD should give me sufficient traction to crawl out of things rather bounce through at great danger to my front diff (which they changed back to 8" in 2004). You of course don't have that issue, so I'd suggest go the rear full locker. Which brand i guess depends on your budget and what you believe on these forums, can do no harm asking Tim again his opinion, I think they sell a few brands.

0
FollowupID: 587157

Reply By: unko - Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 20:39

Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 at 20:39
hi
my ute has front and rear lokkas in it and its my dayely driver. when turning a sharp corner mine lock up. turning right at aroundabout is the worst
AnswerID: 320166

Follow Up By: Towie - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 07:47

Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 07:47
Thanks Unko that is my worry with putting one on the rear.... so for now front only and if needed worry about the rear later....
0
FollowupID: 586872

Reply By: Towie - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 16:54

Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 16:54
Well people the votes are in and being counted...
Detroit drive away $1900.. rear only
Airlocker drive away $2200... with compressor $1800 without
Lockright drive away $1100
Assie Lokka drive away $850

So now to decide as its only the front i want and Detroit only make a rear for 79 series its a no goer.
Therfore i think front should be an Aussie lokka and see how it goes if no good will throw it away.
Then if i need or do the rear perhaps ARB so i dont need to change my driving habits..

Thanks for all the help and WOT do you think about this choice... am a fan of buying Aussie made but only if its up to the task.. 3 year unlimitted warranty gives you plenty of test time...
AnswerID: 320266

Follow Up By: unko - Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 21:54

Monday, Aug 11, 2008 at 21:54
I think its a good idea to get both tho. friend of mine has to floor it in high range 1st to get up it he has to cain it to all. I use low 1st i just want to look after her and it goes up with ease.
0
FollowupID: 587098

Sponsored Links