Solar set-up questions

What stage were you wanting to use the panels for charging? Are they going to be used as you are travelling? I would only use then to charge while we are stopped and not using the alternator of the car.

I have a pair of polycrystalline totalling 160 Watts but with the glass on them I would be a bit cautious having them up top while driving. They are pretty good in partial shade conditions and at an angle. I have them hinged and they face one another protecting the glass face.

Years ago, my original install had poly foam packing under the glass, but I discovered it wasn't an issue. Have had unsupported glass panels on the top of the Patrol for the last 8 years, with the glass at a small angle when travelling, and have never had a problem, either from corrugation vibration or a rock hitting the surface.
Gerry

Hi jdwynn,
I have 3 panels mounted on the roof of my troopy that have been there for quite a few years & travelled some of the rioughest roadsl over Australia & never had a problem (touch wood!!) with corrugations. They are made pretty tough.
I recommend you use at least 6mm wiring (25amp rating) to connect the panels to eliminate voltage drop. I have them connected to my batteries 24/7 & don't have any charging problems.
Check my web page for the setup. Cheers.

Amorphous Panels (Uni Solar) are far more robust, give better output in partial shade and don't lose 20% efficiency when the temp gets over 25C

BUT

They are a bloody lot bigger for a given output.

It's all a balancing act.

Jim.

Hi Jdwynn

I have had 2x80 watt BP panels (24 volts) on the roof of my truck for years and they are permanently connected through a regulator and the latest redac two way smart start relay - to charge both house and cranking batteries. The panels are mounted on shs aluminium with al angle bracket & set screws and the shs is screwed to roof. No problems with the panels - they are tough as.

There is absolutely no reason not to have them connected 24/7 they coexist with the alternator happily - caution abt their coexistence is a myth - commonly believed and well meaningly broadcast - but a myth nonetheless.

You can do anything with the wiring to your camper provided it works - I suspect that your 12 pin plug will not be likely to accept cable of sufficient gauge to overcome voltage drop over the distance - you will have to suck it and see.

Hope this helps

It is a well known fact that an alternator charging the vehicle main battery, will never achieve a full charge on a secondary battery, even after driving all day, it will only achieve approx. 70%. due to the alternator output dropping as the main cranking battery comes back up to full charge, therefore limiting the output.
On the other hand a well set up solar system with correct wiring sizes and a good quality regulator will charge whenever there is sunlight on the pane(s).
Slightly different situation but my caravan has 300w of panels and the two 120A/H Trojan D/cycles are normally fully charged by 10.00am after being used the previous evening for my lighting,inverter (sat tv, and lcd tv.) and my waeco 190 ltr fridge freezer.
As said previously a good solar system should be on 24/7 and will have no problems with any other charging systems, eg. 3-stage smart chargers or alternator.
I suggest using an Anderson type plug for connection between vehicle and camper and again place the regulator as close to the battery as possible to alleviate as little voltage drop as possible.

Try,

Dynamic Solar Solutions

Jamie runs a panel permanently on the roof of his Landy

Rolande

Solar power threads definitely get some contradictory advice :-))

Jim you say:
"This tends to verify to me that the advice I was given, that a 64 watt amorphous will give similar outout to an 80 watt Mono/Poly, is correct"

Some relevant factual information:

# Uni-Solar 64 Watt ‘Amorphous’ Solar panel

Rated Power is 64 Watts
Maximum Power CURRENT is 3.9 Amps
Maximum Power VOLTAGE is 16.5 Volts

This equates to ~3.9 AMPS per square Mtr


# Kyocera 65Watt ‘Multi-crystalline’ Solar panel

Rated Power is 65 Watts
Maximum Power CURRENT is 3.7 Amps
Maximum Power VOLTAGE is 17.4 Volts

This equates to ~7.9 AMPS per square Mtr

The above numbers are relevant to Solar panel EFFICIENCY
Why would anyone want an deficient Solar system ??

~3.9 Amps verses ~7.9 Amps for panels if they were the same physical size, it can be seen the Kyocera panel is ~DOUBLE the Amps of the Uni-Solar panel.

The Power of a panel RATED @ 64 Watts is definately LESS than a panel RATED @ 80 Watts !!

It's a bit like suggesting a 64 HP engine "will give similar output" to a 80 HP engine, that's something most will understand is not correct.



Jim you posted:
“What I do love about the Amorphous is its durability and the fact that if it gets damaged, re pairing it is as simple as filling the hole with silicone”

Jim, can you please explain how an electrical circuit can be “repaired” using “silicone” ? ?

I was taught and I still believe, it’s absolutely impossible for electricity to travel through Silicon, that’s the reason it is used as a ‘barrier’ or as 'insulation' on some electrical connections, so it actually stops people being electrocuted!!

Jim, I'm not 'picking' on you, your post was so easy to 'explain' :-))

Image Could Not Be Found Mainey . . .

Maybe the Silicon 'repair' does not work :))



Uni-Solar 64 Watt Solar panels are now discontinued by the manufacturer

Uni-Solar 64 Watt - This product has now been discontinued by the manufacturer.



Mainey . . .