Saturday, Nov 08, 2008 at 18:11
Amazing how we all have
driving lights but no one seems to be able to answer this question .... same situation on other forums too .... This is what I have done on all vehicles I have owned.
BTW ... negative switching has been around on vehicles since the seventies. Headlight power comes from the battery through a factory fitted relay ... not through the switch.
Firstly ... Mount and earth the relay as required.
Secondly ... Do not run your
driving lights off the factory wiring.
Connect a heavy cable from the battery to the .. constant main power in .. terminal on the relay ... Once you have your measurements right ... disconnect from battery.
Thirdly ... Use quality gauge wiring from the relay output /outputs to the lights - match the wire gauge for the earth wires from the lights - or use figure 8 wiring. ( not speaker wire as some do )
Fourthly ... The tricky bit .. getting the lights to come on, on highbeam ....... Got a multi-meter ???? If so ... turn your headlights on and select highbeam .. 12v ( approx ) will be supplied to one of the connections of a headlight .. this is the
battery power from the OE headlight relay. Another of the connections will have a slightly lesser voltage, this is the wire to the highbeam switch on the steering column which then goes to ground. Turn off headlights.
Tap into the hibeam switch wire with a connector and connect it to the 'switching control' terminal on the relay. ....
Connect the lead from battery to relay, turn headlights on and select hi beam ... your
driving lights will come on.
To do it legally as per ADRs, the switching connection wire from the headlight should run through a control switch ( fitted on the dash etc ) and back to the switching control terminal on the relay. This lets you turn the
Driving Lights off ( shutting off flow through voltage at the relay ) ... even though you are on high beam.
You can save some wire by tapping into the high beam wire in the column ... Me ... I prefer to be able to easily get at all my accessory connections easily in the case of an incident ... so prefer to run the longer, double wire from engine bay to cabin.
Finally ... test hi and lo beam and headlight on/off positons.
I only use those 'new era' 2x30amp fused units rather than those pathetic little, overheating, constantly failing, plastic matchboxes supplied with kits.
The switching wire does not have to be any heavier gauge than the factory headlight wiring but I at least double the driving light wire gauges.
Put inline fuses in and
well insulate / protect wiring, wherever you feel concerned about possible problems.
Follow the directions in regard to relay connections as per the suppliers info.
Use a decent, ratchet crimping tool or solder all connections.
Same process for fog lights / bling lights / airhorns / reversing lights etc .... only difference is what you use as the activating source.
Essentially, it looks like this:....
Site Link
Did I miss anything peoples ?????
AnswerID:
334242
Follow Up By: Member - Redbakk (WA) - Saturday, Nov 08, 2008 at 19:00
Saturday, Nov 08, 2008 at 19:00
No mate....that is how I do it too....KISS
FollowupID:
602018