Ute canopies - your ideas

Submitted: Sunday, Dec 14, 2008 at 19:12
ThreadID: 64274 Views:18985 Replies:4 FollowUps:4
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We recently bought a new dual cab Colorado LX crewcab and are going to put a aluminum canopy on the rear. We are taking the ute part off so just a cab chassis (it was cheaper to buy it that way).

We need the outboard to be on a slide loading/unloading from the rear but other than that are open to ideas on what else others have.

It will carry the Waeco, tools, and hopefully some of the gear we have been carrying in the caravan. It will also have a roof rack/boat loader on top of the canopy with the boat and some of the boating equipment eg anchor, ropes, ctab nets etc.

Would appreciate any ideas on what you have found works or didn't really work.

Thanks in advance.

Dian
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Reply By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Sunday, Dec 14, 2008 at 19:38

Sunday, Dec 14, 2008 at 19:38
Di, it is not clear if you want to buy one, or if you will make your own (given the expertise in your business).

I had an aluminum canopy built by Roscos. Link to web site here:

Roscos Canopies



They are not cheap, but they do a great job. Click on products and scan down and you will find a couple for dual cab utes.

Their head office and one of their factories is in Perth.

I went for near full length side opening doors. Doors fit right against front of canopy, so that I could mount an Engel on slide on each side. You need some side panels for strength and stability to prevent twisting when off road.
I had a partition put in to 'wall off' the fridge area. It is aluminum security mesh for air circulation, weight reduction and it provides easy tie down points.
We had a certified Roll Over Protection System (ROPS) built into the canopy.
I had a shelf put in full length and about 250mm down from the roof. It is also made from aluminum security mesh. The shelf is handy for putting light stuff for ready access up top (fold up chairs, table, solar panel, etc.

Full length slide out draw under canopy (dust proofed).Water tank under one side behind cab. Tool box under other side (used for recovery gear.

No rear door (helps with dust proofing). Two spares on back on wheel lowering arms to reduce effort in lifting into place.

Roof was rated to carry 200KG before the ROPS was specified. I did not ask what it can carry now, probably more, but 200 KG is enough in any case.

We also have a warning light and alarm to indicate a canopy door is not properly closed so I don't drive off and rip a door off on a tree.

They do a great job and are worth looking at as a potential supplier, or for ideas if you plan on building your own.

Norm C
AnswerID: 339731

Follow Up By: Custom Boat Loaders- Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 11:29

Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 11:29
Hi Norm,

Thanks for your reply. We will be building it ourselves as we obviously have the materials and facilities - Cameron wuld be horrified if we didn't!

Bill wants to carry the outboard in the ute as its a 20HP 4 stroke Honda and weighs about 60kgs so very heavy for the drawbar, plus the generator is already there in a box. He has a slide already made that slides and tilts down (don't ask me the technical bits) with a gantry setup to lift on to the boat - hence the rear door.

What I would like is some ideas on what others store in their canopies and how they have set them up. People on this forum have tried and tested things - often something looks a great idea & then is more of a nusiance because of something you didn't think of. Like the idea of a warning light to let you know a door isn't shut - I'll bet Bill hadn't thought about that!

Is there anything in your setup you'd change and what's the best thing in it?

Cheers

Dian
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FollowupID: 607354

Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 13:41

Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 13:41
Yes, smart to make it yourself since you have the skills. I suspect only about one third of my price was for materials. The rest is labour, overheads, profit and GST.

Having had a canopy on the Hilux previously, I knew the secret is to design the storage so that you can use the full capacity of the canopy, but be able to get at most things easily without having to unload other stuff.

So far, there is nothing I have regretted or that I would change, but we have only done short trips with it so far. I think the best design ideas in mine are:

- The two Engels on slides (one each side). Behind the Engels, I have two AGM batteries (one always there, the other comes out and becomes the starter battery and to run the electric motor on the boat). Over the top of the Engels, I have installed a 150mm PVC pipe that runs across the width of the canopy (strapped to the mesh shelf). In that I carry spare tent poles and fishing rods. I've also installed a 12V power point on each side above the fridges for ready access top power.

- The plywood draw unit I made. It is about 900mm deep (about half the width of the canopy), with 2 big drawers for tools and smaller stuff I want to be able to access. A shelf above the drawers carries the tent (for if we want to go somewhere we don't wish to take the van). The Sat TV dish sits on top of the tent. I selected the tent and dish before I made the drawer unit. The dish therefore slides in very firmly and cannot move.

-The full width (removable) plywood shelf across the rear of the canopy. There is space under the shelf for 6 large plastic storage bins (once again I selected the bins before installing the shelf). I can pack stuff on the shelf right to the underside of the top mesh shelf and still slide any or all of the bins out without unpacking anything else.

The only issue with the way I have set up is that with the plywood shelf in place the only area where I have full canopy hight available inside is an area of approx 900mm x 900mm behind the drawer unit. Even there, I only have up to the underside of the top mesh shelf. This has not been an issue so far and I can easily remove the plywood shelf if I ever want a larger area of 'full' hight. The drawer unit can also be removed if necessary.

Not all of this will be relevant to you, but I hope some of it helps.

Norm CImage Could Not Be Found

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FollowupID: 607368

Follow Up By: Custom Boat Loaders- Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 14:30

Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 14:30
Looks really great Norm. Have printed it off for Bill to have a look at - guess what he'll be busy with over Christmas!

All the best for Christmas and the New Year - we might meet up on the road in 2009.

Cheers

Dian
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FollowupID: 607379

Reply By: Member - len W SWANSEA (NSW) - Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 07:14

Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 07:14
hi dian
i don't know if this will help you but i made an easy on and easy off loading bracket to go on the a frame of my caravan for the outboard i can send some pic if you like my o/b is an 18 hp the bracket folds down so you can put the motor on from ground level then put it up so the motor stands upright on the a frame

...................len
AnswerID: 339789

Follow Up By: Custom Boat Loaders- Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 11:30

Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 11:30
Thanks for the reply but our outboard is a 20HP 4 stroke Honda with power start and tilt and weighs 60kg so not an option for us, plus the generator is already on the bar.

Cheers

Dian
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FollowupID: 607355

Reply By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 08:36

Monday, Dec 15, 2008 at 08:36
Di, You say you will carry the outboard on a slide in the back of the canopy.
You have obiously thought your plans out. I used to carry my outboard in the canopy of the Hilux, but now that we have upgraded to a van, I carry it on the draw bar. Although we have ours on a tilting slide, it can take up a lot less space if mounted on a vertical 'pole'.

If you have the space and weight capacity to do that, it releases a lot of space in the back. Also easier for loading and unloading, particularly with the modification you have done to the boat loader to use it as a 'crane'.

I suspect you have thought of this, but have reasons for not doing it. But figured it was worth a mention anyway.

Norm C
AnswerID: 339798

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 09:27

Tuesday, Dec 16, 2008 at 09:27
Dian,
I had mine custom built from 3mm aluminium 4 years ago, and had fun finetuning it since. The important things for me were:

#1 Keep all the heavy stuff forward of the rear axle for good weight distribution and to prevent any chance of the chassis cracking.
So I have a Goughs undertray 70L water tank up the front that gravity feeds to a tap mounted on the back of the passengers-side cab. Up front on the passengers side, I have 2 40L Engels. Up front on the rear, I have space for 9 jerry cans plus an AGM battery.

#2 Rear has no door. That stops dust getting in, and allows spare tyres and HF aerial to be mounted on the back.

#3 Fitout: Passengers side has food/cooking/cellar/fridges/seats/table so it faces the campfire. Drivers side has 2 large drawers for clothes and spaces for swag/tent/tools/spares and faces away from the fire.

#4 I cover all ply with utility carpet - stops rattling/rubbing/ and stuff can stay in its position with just a dab of hook velcro. And it covers up my dodgy handiwork :-)

#5 I fitted a flat 100x100x5mm mesh rack to the roof - its 25mm off the top, so theres no wind resistance or noise and the vehicle still fits into carparks. I can tie anything down to any part of the rack. And the rack is used for anything extra - kayak, firewood, large tent, tyres etc

I'll see if I can dig up some photos tonight

Phil
AnswerID: 339966

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