Oils aren't oils

Submitted: Friday, Aug 08, 2003 at 13:46
ThreadID: 6444 Views:2556 Replies:6 FollowUps:3
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Hi all. Some advise needed. Being mechanically challenged I always consult my trusty Gregory's manual before doing anything to my diesel 80 series.

I am looking at doing my own oil changes to try and save some money and learn a bit more about my vehicle. In the manual, for motor oil, it says to use SAE 20W/40 CD or better.

First - what does this mean and secondly when I go to my trusty auto accessories stores to buy the oil, the 20W/40 oil is sold simply as motor oil wheras for diesels and tubo diesels the oil is rated at 15W/40. Is it safe to use the lower rated oil for my Cruiser or should I stick to the reccomended rated oil.

Any help would be appreciated.

Karl
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Reply By: Stevo - Friday, Aug 08, 2003 at 15:56

Friday, Aug 08, 2003 at 15:56
Karl, this web site will give you a basic understanding.

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
AnswerID: 27169

Reply By: Member - Chris - Friday, Aug 08, 2003 at 17:35

Friday, Aug 08, 2003 at 17:35
Reward your cruiser and lube it with Penrite HPR oil for commercial vehicles. It costs a bit more, but the motor purrs in pleasure.Chris
<- 1996 Troopy, the best!
AnswerID: 27178

Reply By: Member - Donald L- Friday, Aug 08, 2003 at 19:35

Friday, Aug 08, 2003 at 19:35
Karl,
I have had 25 years experience with lubrication working in a Refinery as a civilian & 12 years prior in the Navy. Making contact with Oil Company Lubricating Marketing Engineers will put you in contact with techcnical people who can provide you with a lot of material. (check WESITES)
You can pick your car etc
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/shell_au/data-sol.asp?Section=2&Make=72&Model=1624
http://www.mobil.com.au/index.html
http://www.castrol.com.au/lube_guide/index.html
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/caltx_au/buttons/default.asp?section=2
http://www.valvoline.com.au/lube_frame.cfm
http://www.comparocar.com/comparocar_accessories_oils-1.htm
Penrite oils www.penrite.com.au
BP not much on the web http://www.bpamoco.com/bp_businesses/transition_page.asp?id=21
Please refer to previous posts 5892 and 5919 where you will find a lot of info.
.I have some success secrets,
* Pick a narrow band oil for your operating area & conditions (Viscosity range) & change for Hot Desert or Snow Alps application. As per Manufacturer.
*Change the oil filter and the engine oil on a Diesel every 5000k, don't skip!!
*Keep the Air filter in good nick & change more often when in the dust, don't use foam rubber units to replace cartridge design. You have to keep the wearing agents out of the Engine
You may be bombarded with the fact that synthetic gives you a longer yield & you should stretch your KMs & others have commented.
But the Diesels Engines in Road 4WD get soot (wearing elements) in the lube oil regardless of the oil base material be it mineral or synthetic.
Good luckGet out there and use it.
Life is too short not to.
All the best...
Donald
AnswerID: 27185

Follow Up By: Martyn (WA) - Friday, Aug 08, 2003 at 21:01

Friday, Aug 08, 2003 at 21:01
Donald,
I come from a similar back ground no Navy experience, and I work for the company that "doesn't have much on the web", they do and it's very extensive, I would put the link in but I'm not sure how to, just being a little bit deensive that's all.
With the new ultra low sulphur diesel that has been introduced in the last couple of days here in WA the soot in the oil should decrease considerably using this diesel. Saying that I will not be changing my oil change intervals until I can see through the oil I take out, I've also considered synthetics but that's as far as I got.Keep the shiny side up
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FollowupID: 18676

Reply By: Paul - Saturday, Aug 09, 2003 at 00:22

Saturday, Aug 09, 2003 at 00:22
Hi, I heard about his study some time ago, http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Oiltest.html
It found that oils are oils after they pulled down and measured the all initially rebuilt to identical standard engines of a large number of New York taxis that had been run on a lot of different oils for 60 thousand miles. Apparently there was no discernible difference in motors that had the oil changed in 3000 or 6000 miles either. Perhaps there are some small differences such as flashpoint of oils etc but I think blokes can be sucked in by the advertisers of oil companies the same way women are reeled in over washing powder.
Paul
AnswerID: 27220

Follow Up By: Paul - Saturday, Aug 09, 2003 at 00:27

Saturday, Aug 09, 2003 at 00:27
Oh yeah, apparently one of the most important factors to consider is the range of multi-viscosity oils, the shorter the better as less polymers are used which equates to less sludge build up.
Paul
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FollowupID: 18696

Reply By: Member - Oskar(Bris) - Saturday, Aug 09, 2003 at 08:02

Saturday, Aug 09, 2003 at 08:02
Just to add some more guff to the thread
I'm not as knowledgable as others about oil viscosity's (American spelling?) etc but the 4X4 diesel specialist mechanic I have had work on my car from time to time (I do all my own service and repairs when I can) said to me that he has seen the difference in engines on "pull-down" that different oils make.
He reckons that Shell Rimular X is the only oil that he's seen that makes any difference to a diesel as far as reducing the sludge build-up etc. So that's what he recommends.
I haven't actually used it yet myself because it's been too expensive and supercheap don't sell it!!! I'm a cheapskate I know!
Wait until Supercheap have their "20% off everything one day sale" and buy your oil by the 20lt drum if you want the best price.
Cheers
Oskar
AnswerID: 27238

Reply By: Bob Y. - Qld - Saturday, Aug 09, 2003 at 11:14

Saturday, Aug 09, 2003 at 11:14
Karl,

Working on a station in western Qld doesn't give us a lot of choice for fuel and oils. We use Rimula X 15W/40 all year round, with 5K km oil changes, and 10k km oil filter changes. Have never had an engine related problem, and what few problems we have, can be traced to "driver error".

Would recommend a 15W/40 oil, and get it by 20L drum, though thats only 2 oil changes.

BTW, we are running an 80 series turbo wagon, 2 79 series utes(1 turbo) and Hilux D/cab 3L diesel. Only Nissan on place is UD truck - top lorry, tough as buggery.

Cost of good oil, and regular servicing, is far cheaper than engine rebuilds, or inconvenience caused by engine failure, while on the "big trip".

Hooroo...

AnswerID: 27251

Follow Up By: Alan H - Monday, Aug 11, 2003 at 10:38

Monday, Aug 11, 2003 at 10:38
Couldn't agree more Bob Y. The cooks Camry has done 186000 klms and doesn't burn a drop (or lose any either). The oil and filter are changed every 8000.
Just sold a 300 Tdi Discovery with 122000 and that didn't burn any between it's 5000 klm oil and filter changes. Castrol in the Camry and Penrite Premium in the Disco.
When I worked in the bush on earth moving equip., mostly Cats. we used Shell Rimula and it was excellent. Changed every 100hrs.
Along with regular oil changes, don't forget the air filter especially in very dusty conditions. On most bush jobs we changed filters at least every day, and in some conditions every 4hrs!
On some jobs they were then sent back to Perth to be washed/blown out properly.
The cost of this was enormous, but against the cost of new engines was well worth it.
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FollowupID: 18872

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