Oils aren't oils

Karl, this web site will give you a basic understanding.

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html

Reward your cruiser and lube it with Penrite HPR oil for commercial vehicles. It costs a bit more, but the motor purrs in pleasure.Chris
<- 1996 Troopy, the best!

Karl,
I have had 25 years experience with lubrication working in a Refinery as a civilian & 12 years prior in the Navy. Making contact with Oil Company Lubricating Marketing Engineers will put you in contact with techcnical people who can provide you with a lot of material. (check WESITES)
You can pick your car etc
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/shell_au/data-sol.asp?Section=2&Make=72&Model=1624
http://www.mobil.com.au/index.html
http://www.castrol.com.au/lube_guide/index.html
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/caltx_au/buttons/default.asp?section=2
http://www.valvoline.com.au/lube_frame.cfm
http://www.comparocar.com/comparocar_accessories_oils-1.htm
Penrite oils www.penrite.com.au
BP not much on the web http://www.bpamoco.com/bp_businesses/transition_page.asp?id=21
Please refer to previous posts 5892 and 5919 where you will find a lot of info.
.I have some success secrets,
* Pick a narrow band oil for your operating area & conditions (Viscosity range) & change for Hot Desert or Snow Alps application. As per Manufacturer.
*Change the oil filter and the engine oil on a Diesel every 5000k, don't skip!!
*Keep the Air filter in good nick & change more often when in the dust, don't use foam rubber units to replace cartridge design. You have to keep the wearing agents out of the Engine
You may be bombarded with the fact that synthetic gives you a longer yield & you should stretch your KMs & others have commented.
But the Diesels Engines in Road 4WD get soot (wearing elements) in the lube oil regardless of the oil base material be it mineral or synthetic.
Good luckGet out there and use it.
Life is too short not to.
All the best...
Donald

Hi, I heard about his study some time ago, http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Oiltest.html
It found that oils are oils after they pulled down and measured the all initially rebuilt to identical standard engines of a large number of New York taxis that had been run on a lot of different oils for 60 thousand miles. Apparently there was no discernible difference in motors that had the oil changed in 3000 or 6000 miles either. Perhaps there are some small differences such as flashpoint of oils etc but I think blokes can be sucked in by the advertisers of oil companies the same way women are reeled in over washing powder.
Paul

Just to add some more guff to the thread
I'm not as knowledgable as others about oil viscosity's (American spelling?) etc but the 4X4 diesel specialist mechanic I have had work on my car from time to time (I do all my own service and repairs when I can) said to me that he has seen the difference in engines on "pull-down" that different oils make.
He reckons that Shell Rimular X is the only oil that he's seen that makes any difference to a diesel as far as reducing the sludge build-up etc. So that's what he recommends.
I haven't actually used it yet myself because it's been too expensive and supercheap don't sell it!!! I'm a cheapskate I know!
Wait until Supercheap have their "20% off everything one day sale" and buy your oil by the 20lt drum if you want the best price.
Cheers
Oskar

Karl,

Working on a station in western Qld doesn't give us a lot of choice for fuel and oils. We use Rimula X 15W/40 all year round, with 5K km oil changes, and 10k km oil filter changes. Have never had an engine related problem, and what few problems we have, can be traced to "driver error".

Would recommend a 15W/40 oil, and get it by 20L drum, though thats only 2 oil changes.

BTW, we are running an 80 series turbo wagon, 2 79 series utes(1 turbo) and Hilux D/cab 3L diesel. Only Nissan on place is UD truck - top lorry, tough as buggery.

Cost of good oil, and regular servicing, is far cheaper than engine rebuilds, or inconvenience caused by engine failure, while on the "big trip".

Hooroo...