1hz overheating still!!

Submitted: Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 09:08
ThreadID: 65012 Views:11884 Replies:29 FollowUps:20
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Ok here is what i have done!
new PWR radiator did minimal different $990.00 out of the wallet,
next 2 viscus fan hubs I borrowed the second from a friend whose never over heats.and other i purchased the viscus fluid and filled it up. used about 1 and a half tubes.
then last job i did was replace the water pump. not difference.
mainly gets hot o long hills with and empty load on ute but aircond is on.
checked the gauges.
hence the gauge on my ute have 2, one is for aircond cut off when it detects vehicle is running hot and the other is for the gauge inside car.
both are working!
so yesterday decided to order the CEM its the stuff u flush your oil out u see in the magazines these guys advertise.
i have nothing else to try!
ok i will say i had a turbo fitted and intercooler.
but saying this, before all the mods i put in the ute, as stock standard it was doing the same on the same hills.so i can bassicly rule the turbo and intercooler out.
had new pump put in, and had it professionally advanced!to i think he said 1.5 deg from memory?
also when had my water pump replaced he double checked the engine timing before removing the timing belt was all perfect.
So if anyone else can help me, would be appreciated!
i have spent $1000's on getting this right.
Regards
Chris
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Reply By: Member - Ian H (NSW) - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 09:16

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 09:16
I would have said to try CEM. Even if it does not cure the heating problem the engine will run better and the oil will be clean. I used it and it made a bit difference to the oil condition. Let us know the results please. The 1HZ does not normally give overheating problems.
By the way, how many K's on the clock?
Good luck
AnswerID: 343670

Follow Up By: iccey_1969 - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 09:22

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 09:22
how long does it stay clean for?
yes i have heard my mates with same motor say they can go hard all day fully loaded.
I have noticed to that if i have aircond on and idle for long period say in traffic, the temp goes up.
not good for both the driver and car to over heat.
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Follow Up By: Member - Ian H (NSW) - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 10:18

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 10:18
When you use CEM flushing additive it cleans out all the crud that builds up over time especially in this design of diesel. When you put clean oil in it stays quite clear until the normal contaminates start to build up again. The oil holds this stuff till next oil change. Normally, without CEM, the oil goes black immediately after a change due to all the crud still in the donk. Believe me it works and works well. Seems a bit expensive first up but not in the long run. I have no connection with CEM, just satisfied user.
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Reply By: troopyman - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 09:46

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 09:46
I had a ford years ago that would overheat in stop start traffic . No matter what i did i couldnt fix it . My current troopy never overheats but i do take it to a radiator place every 12 months and get them to flush and change the coolant . Alloy and old coolant dont mix .
AnswerID: 343675

Reply By: Member - Nick (TAS) - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 09:52

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 09:52
Have you replaced the thermostat, or even tried running it without one to see what happens.??
Do you have an EGT gauge and if so what are your max EGT temps.??Does the engine blow black smoke?, may be over fuelling.
I have turboed(and I/C) my 1HZ, temp gauge has never gone above just under half, before or after turbo was fitted.
Do you still have your cowling around the fan?
Is your I/C top mount including a bonnet scoop, this has been known to cause heating issues due to disturbed air flow.Saying that, this is the setup I have and no worries....yet.
AnswerID: 343676

Reply By: Wayne's 60 - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 09:54

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 09:54
Hi Chris,

I'm going to take a guess that you have replaced the thermostat?

Other than that, you don't indicate what boost the turbo is running at.
Was the fuel pump turned up prior to the turbo install and not retuned afterwards?
What type of coolant are you using?

Other than that, have you removed the head to see what condition it and the head gasket are in?

While it's pretty difficult to diagnose a problem with out seeing the vehicle up close, if you are wanting further assistance you could try asking the question on LCOOL you will need to join the group, or hereOffroad 80's

Cheers,
Wayne.
AnswerID: 343677

Reply By: Gone Bush (WA) - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 10:24

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 10:24
Chris,

when they replaced the radiator did they put new upper and lower hoses in?

Mine did exactly the same thing on long hills towing my CT.

I did everything you did and eventually changed the upper and particularly the lower hoses. Because they were old and soft, on these hills they were sucking themselves thin and restricting water flow. If I backed off the accelerator the needle dropped.

Check your hoses.

Mine also had a turbo and intercooler. The intercooler sat in front of half of the radiator. Didn't help.

The temp needle never moved unless I was towing and on a long slow hill. I think you'll find it's more common in 1HZs than people are prepared to admit.

Solved it by buying a 200 series. No, just joking, check your hoses.

cheers


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AnswerID: 343680

Reply By: iccey_1969 - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 10:46

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 10:46
Yes i have replaced the thermostat. twice actually because the second time we actually checked the thermostat in water with a gauge to make sure it worked right!
Secondly im running 14 pounds boost, but must admit have the fuel turned up almost fully, only time i get smoke is on hard accelaration and changing gears. but as for cruising no smoke! even up a hill foot flat to floor no smoke! i have a 3 inch mandrel exsaust running right through.

But saying all this, prior to installing a turbo and intercooler it was doing this overheating before hand.

It hasnt become worse since the install nor better.
only time i dont have heating prob is in winter, im gueesing the cooler temps. must play a big part in it.

my EGT runing on highway is about 240 -280
hottest i can get it possible is 470 deg c
but ihave noticed if i am towing a small trailer on a long hill, if the EGT temp is from 320 deg up wards is when it will start to creap up on my gauge as the start of the overheating.

My aircond stops to work by this time so i am cooking with the Ute.
AnswerID: 343683

Follow Up By: Grungle - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 11:20

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 11:20
You could fit a craig davis electric water pump which will flow the water through the system faster. You can either set it up to replace the mechanical water pump or aid it.

Do you have a photo of the front of the vehicle? Just wondering how much airflow is restricted by spotlights and bullbar.

Have you had the motor flushed? Could be a restriction in the water galleries.

Also had a Navara do exactly the same thing as above (aircon would cut out when towing and at idle as the coolant temp rose) and found the aircon fan seized and radiator 1/4 blocked with grass seeds.

Regards
David
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Follow Up By: Member - Dick (Int) - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 15:45

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 15:45
I think the 14 lbs Boost and perhaps too much fuel is your main problem. This is well above what is recommended by most installers for reliable operation. It is very likely you have damaged the head already.

Cheers
Dick







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Follow Up By: get outmore - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 21:12

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 21:12
with 14 lbs boost on a 1hz overheating will soon be the least of your worries
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Follow Up By: GerryP - Monday, Jan 12, 2009 at 00:02

Monday, Jan 12, 2009 at 00:02
I'd have to agree, 8 psi is about the maximum the 1HZ will safely take. Your egt seems to be quite low, so overfuelling doesn't appear to be an issue, at least not with the high boost. You may find, if you reduce your boost, that you may need to adjust your fuel back as well.

This may have nil effect on your overheating issue, but as "get outmore" stated, you could be heading for much bigger issues at that level of boost on a 1HZ.

Cheers
Gerry
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FollowupID: 611649

Reply By: iccey_1969 - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 10:48

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 10:48
Ohh sorry, about the coolant I use the toyota recomended redish coolant. 50/50 as recomended by toyota themselves.
AnswerID: 343686

Reply By: Bat30 - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 11:07

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 11:07
Hi I had this problem done all the things you did,I was in Darwin and went to a radiator place and the chap there told me quite common, the way to fix it was too fit a dual core raditor .Cost $650 fitted it almost twice as big as the old radiator solved all the problem, left Darwin with 19 ft caravan ,a lot of hot weather never a problem..,run cooler then ever it did ,I have a turbo fitted.This is a company in Vic Called Aussie Desert Coolers whom make these radiator.Very common up north with turbo Toyota.
AnswerID: 343691

Follow Up By: offroad Bob - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 17:29

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 17:29
When I was in Darwin with a turbo 12hzt I too fitted a high density core radiator for about the same price. Did the trick - ran a lot cooler. The overall radiator was the same size just much finer core.

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Reply By: burnsy - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 11:21

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 11:21
Does you radiator stay brim full of coolant or does it use about half the top tank & then stop using water?
AnswerID: 343694

Follow Up By: get outmore - Monday, Jan 12, 2009 at 00:42

Monday, Jan 12, 2009 at 00:42
thats a leaking water pump or such like,

once a certain amount of coolant has been leaked then it stops leaking as air can compress but coolant cant so the pressure built up in the system is too low to keep it leaking
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FollowupID: 611654

Reply By: Bob Y. - Qld - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 11:28

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 11:28
Chris,

You have tried everything to no avail, so I feel you may have a number of cracked combustion chambers. Have seen similar problems to what you are having in a 2H, and it had a couple of cracked chambers. From memory it may have had a cracked head too.

Pretty frustating, eh? From my experience with Toyotas, they rarely overheat, unless the radiator cores are blocked with mud, grass seed or insects. Have never had to resort to re-charging the viscous hubs, and have only ever replaced one water pump, and a couple of cooling fans.

Bob.
Seen it all, Done it all.
Can't remember most of it.

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AnswerID: 343698

Follow Up By: qubert - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 21:35

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 21:35
combustion chambers have nothing to do with overheating
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FollowupID: 611601

Reply By: Thermoguard Instruments - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 12:34

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 12:34
Hi Chris,

It seems you have tried just about everything but...

You say you have checked your gauges. What did this entail? Have you actually swapped the gauge sender unit with, say, the one from your friend's vehicle? Or tried a new one? Wouldn't be the first time a faulty/oversensitive sender has said an otherwise OK vehicle was overheating.

Even better would be to fit an accurate, calibrated coolant temp gauge to see exactly how hot the coolant is getting. Many standard vehicle gauges move to their 'normal' position (often just under half-scale) at the thermostat opening setting (typically 85-90 C), then don't move upwards again until the coolant temp is well over 100 C.

If I may be permitted a small 'plug': as well as reputable analogue gauges like VDO, etc. it is possible to display coolant (or any other temp you wish) on a Thermoguard EGT gauge by adding a second (or even a third) thermocouple in the appropriate place (such as the thermostat housing) and suitable switching circuitry.

Of course, it is only possible to display one temp at a time and the driver has to manually switch between the multiple inputs, but it gives you a very accurate coolant temp if you want it.

It's a while back now, but I'm pretty sure Roachie from this august Forum had his Thermoguard EGT set-up to switch between pre-turbo and post-turbo EGT.

Hope this helps.
Ian
AnswerID: 343707

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 18:33

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 18:33
yes, Ian, that was what I set-up on my last Patrol (the 4.2TD). It worked well.........

Cheers and regards,

Roachie
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FollowupID: 611568

Follow Up By: qubert - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 21:41

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 21:41
a 1hz engine temp gauge starts moving off half way at exactly 100^c.
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FollowupID: 611603

Follow Up By: Thermoguard Instruments - Monday, Jan 12, 2009 at 09:22

Monday, Jan 12, 2009 at 09:22
Quote: "a 1hz engine temp gauge starts moving off half way at exactly 100^c."

Gee, every single one of them, at exactly 100 C, regardless of age and years of use? That's quite astonishing for a mass-produced standard vehicle instrument. Even precision industrial instruments can't manage that sort of repeatability without regular calibration checks.

Ian
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FollowupID: 611674

Follow Up By: qubert - Monday, Jan 12, 2009 at 10:33

Monday, Jan 12, 2009 at 10:33
ok. should have said . most 1hz switch off the aircon at 100c and that is about when the needle starts moving on the gauge
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FollowupID: 611693

Reply By: Flywest - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 13:49

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 13:49
Always amazes me.

The problems more widesread than you probably realize.

If I were you, and you don't already have it, I would add a large aftermarket oil cooler radiator out front, along with a supplemetal oil byass filter.

What this does apart from cooling the sump oil and stopping it becomming a heat sink for the excessive combustion temps buildup, is that it also increases sump oil volume a few liters - which also aids in the cooling of the oil and hence engine.

Not so hard really - your oil can help cool your engine just like your coolant if only you'll let it!

Cheers
AnswerID: 343714

Reply By: Wherehegon - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 14:09

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 14:09
Id be checking the head and possibly a crack in the bore some where ??? Have you had it pressure tested at all ?? This doesnt always work but its a starting point. Just because you are not getting any visible water in the oil doesnt mean it isnt leaking. It could be slighty blown but is burning it off. Head gasket can go either way, either water in oil, or oil showing in radiator, also bubblin up i your overflow radiator overflow bottle, but you would have obviously seen this yourself so my guess is as above, slightly blown but burning it off out the exhaust ??? WHG
AnswerID: 343718

Reply By: macy - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 15:25

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 15:25
Iccy
We had the same prob with ours, turned out to be the aircon condencer (?) in front of the radiator blocked with bugs.
Cheers Mac
AnswerID: 343726

Reply By: Shaver - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 15:26

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 15:26
I agree with the bloke from Thermoguard. I had a 2H with aftermarket Turbo with so called overheating problems. After spending a fortune as you have done, it turned out to be the Temp Sender, the bl--dy thing had corroded & you could see the internals. Replaced it & never had a problem again. A $10 part had cost me a small fortune.
AnswerID: 343727

Reply By: iccey_1969 - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 15:53

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 15:53
Hi, well had the head off last year.
Had it checked and shaved.
put it all back together and still same.
the radiator is 2 weeks old PWR 2 core radiator. did make a small difference but not enough.
here is the image of the front of my cruiser, the bull bar is huge with lights.
ok i cant give you a photo, as i am not a financial registered user on here. but its a big arse aluminium bar. has aloy type of grill infront of the lights, maybe this is restricting air flow?
if you would like to see the photo, then Email me at pinpoint2@bigpond.com
And ill send you a photo.
Thanks again
Chris

AnswerID: 343731

Follow Up By: Member - Royce- Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 23:01

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 23:01
Join up mate. Help support the site.

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FollowupID: 611634

Reply By: racinrob - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 16:30

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 16:30
Chris. My 1hz is 4.2 turboed and I carry a slide on camper giving me an all up weight of nearly 4 tonne fully loaded. I have done most of the desert treks and around the paddock with out any overheating probs, what I'm getting to is the fact that there IS definitely something wrong and your only solution is to keep looking. You would've changed your hoses when you changed your radiator, yes ? They can suck flat and restrict flow, other than this I have no suggestions.
Good luck. Rob.
AnswerID: 343736

Reply By: hotfishez - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 17:01

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 17:01
I had a 92 75series a few years back. Much the same problem, ran fine until you hit a hill or really loaded it up. Ended up being a fractured head. It was not a big enough crack to effect under normal conditions but once it got past a point the temp went up. We found this to be the case by runnung it up in the workshop and sliding a sheet of cardboard in front of the radiator, after a period of time bubbles came through.
I currently have an 80 series with a similar problem, desert cooler radiator, toyota coolant, replaced thermostat, viscous hub etc, next step will be a proper water pump. They are not a standard, the fins are twice the size and the pumps are around $450.00. It is the only thing that has not been done to combat the temp going up.

Just to clarify, the 75 series was NON TURBO, my 80 series has an aftermarket DTS TURBO
AnswerID: 343740

Follow Up By: hotfishez - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 17:04

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 17:04
GET IT DYNOED, My 80 was running hotter before the pump was re adjusted on the dyno.
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FollowupID: 611544

Reply By: Kroozer - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 17:07

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 17:07
Also have 1990 HZJ75 Trayback with 1HZ with 300,000kms. Never overheated before in its life. Put some Lightforce 240s on it and now when i go over 110km/h the temp goes up to nearly 3/4, it always sits at half or just under. Back off the throttle (110) and it drops back to normal. This is in day time, yet at night i can sit on 120km/h and no problem not a rise in temp. Same if its raining, no rise. I just put it down to the dry Kimberley heat and the big lights restricting air flow.. Have just this week flushed engine with the CEM stuff and had radiator flushed and am very happy with the CEM stuff. Oil is still clean somehow after 5 days.

I am not sure what your problem could be, but it sounds pretty bad if its overheating at idle, mine never rises at idle with air con on. My old SS used to overheat at idle but never when travelling even when giving it a bit of grief it never rose. But at idle and especially with air con on it would hit the red. I never figured it out as i never had to idle more then 20 seconds anyway.

Am going on a 2000km trip in couple of days so will report any changes i have found since flushing motor and engine. Will also be adding the CEM Fuel additive so will be monitoring my fule economy and performance also to see if there is any gain whatsoever.
AnswerID: 343741

Reply By: Member - Mfewster(SA) - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 19:43

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 19:43
Iccey, a couple of posts have suggested checking the top and bottom radiator hoses. You probably have done this but you haven't mentioned this in any of your lists of things done. A "soft" radiator hose (usually the top one) will give exactly the symptoms you describe.
AnswerID: 343766

Reply By: iccey_1969 - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 20:25

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 20:25
Ok, one thing i havent done yet is replaced the hoses, now you have me thinking!
But mechanic said the hoses looked fine.
Then what explains the slight temp rise when on idle with aircond on? but if i idle with no aircond on then temp stays normal.

Ii didnt see any suction of hoses. actually the hoses were hard with a bit of pressure in them.

But no bubbling or water escaping anywhere.
i check my water level every morning and level is normal.

I figured if it is the head, cracked or something i would have lost water from pressure and gas inside radiator.
i will be getting the cem cleaner by tuesday and keep u all posted if it makes any difference, i dont believe in god but maybe i should start praying and hope something out of all this will fix what problem i am having.
Thanx
Chris
AnswerID: 343770

Follow Up By: qubert - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 21:38

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 21:38
do you have ralley 4000's . they block the crutial area of the radiator cooling area.
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FollowupID: 611602

Reply By: Member - Nick (TAS) - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 21:02

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 21:02
Been suggested a couple of times, check its not over fuelling.Fit an EGT gauge and see what temps you get.And Id try an after market temp gauge.We had a falcon that went into the red at every hill.Fitted a VDO gauge and it went to half and never went over it.Cycled nicely with the thermostat.
AnswerID: 343779

Reply By: qubert - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 21:36

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 21:36
if you want horse power .dont try and make it , buy it..........
AnswerID: 343785

Reply By: mick.l - Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 22:56

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 22:56
Sounds like you have change just about everything but didn't see that you had changed your temp sender, might be the problem.
AnswerID: 343804

Follow Up By: Nomad Liney - Tuesday, Jan 13, 2009 at 12:00

Tuesday, Jan 13, 2009 at 12:00
Also no mention of changing out the air cleaner. Takes a lot to suck air through an old air filter that is partially blocked.
Col
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FollowupID: 611955

Reply By: Member - Royce- Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 23:05

Sunday, Jan 11, 2009 at 23:05
I had overheating probs like you describe.

Went through most of your fixes. Things improved but....

Finally realized that basically I had a good guage. The temperature did go up on hills and under load on warm days. But came down whenever I backed off or on cooler days.

Did a few hundred k's. Motor just died... but don't think the overheating was a such an issue once I accepted the range the guage showed.
AnswerID: 343805

Reply By: get outmore - Monday, Jan 12, 2009 at 00:46

Monday, Jan 12, 2009 at 00:46
1HZ WILL run warm
i didnt think so but we had a hot spell and every 1hz work vehicle got warm enough to shut off the aircon
including the one with the clutch fan being replaced with a fixed fan and a new radiator

I got the 30,000km work 1hz boiling when i pulled up the other day and that has a brand spanker 3 or 4 core radiator (Dunno which it is much bigger than standard)
AnswerID: 343811

Reply By: Member - Tour Boy (Bororen) - Monday, Jan 12, 2009 at 09:50

Monday, Jan 12, 2009 at 09:50
I don't know if this will help it does with 2H troopies.
Put some washers between the bonnet and the hinge bracket, this will lift the rear of the bonnet up a couple of mm allowing the fan to blow the hot air out of the engine bay at the windscreen.
Cheers
Dave
Cheers,
Dave
2010 Isuzu FTS800 Expedition camper
2015 Fortuner
Had 72 cruisers in my time

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AnswerID: 343830

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Monday, Jan 12, 2009 at 11:03

Monday, Jan 12, 2009 at 11:03
This is curious......

I used to think that as well and when I bought my current rig, it had the back of the bonnet jacked up about 12mm for that reason.

However, if you delve into it a bit more, it seems that doing this will actually cause air to be dragged into the engine bay from the low-pressure area at the bottom of the windscreen.

This is why the Chev Camaros and the Torano A9X etc have a rearward facing scoop....it draws air back into the engine bay.

A very interesting topic....

Roachie
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FollowupID: 611700

Reply By: iccey_1969 - Tuesday, Jan 13, 2009 at 07:56

Tuesday, Jan 13, 2009 at 07:56
I, got the engine oil cleaner and fuel adative.(CEM) As one of the advertised products in the magazine.

Information given with product said to make sure i had more then 10 ltrs for the waist oil, actually they said 30% more capasity for all this sludje to come out of motor.I ran engine for 30 min!
well, no sludge and just the amount that went into the unit came out.
So i guess my engine is clean.
went for a drive and still hasnt fixed the overheating.

now ill try the bonnet lift. as i have nothing else to try.
AnswerID: 344036

Follow Up By: Gone Bush (WA) - Tuesday, Jan 13, 2009 at 09:51

Tuesday, Jan 13, 2009 at 09:51
Yes you have.

You've had the hoses issue raised by two people now. You can't check them by feel, it's age. They don't have a spring inside to retain their shape.

Change your hoses.

Also, I get the impression your cruiser is a ute. These were always right on the edge as far as cooling went. Smaller radiator because of the narrow front of the engine bay.

Intercoolers, spotties, bullbars, they all contribute to lousy airflow.

cheers

I'm glad I ain't too scared to be lazy
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FollowupID: 611932

Follow Up By: awill4x4 - Tuesday, Jan 13, 2009 at 10:05

Tuesday, Jan 13, 2009 at 10:05
Post some pics of the front of your car, I'll be interested to see if the intercooler (assuming it's a front mount) is obscuring too large an area of your radiator.
Remember as you are going up hills under boost the intercooler is dumping hot air onto the radiator rather than the closer to ambient air under cruising low boost conditions.
Regards Andrew.
ps: also get your egt temps tested under load, I suspect this may be a problem also.
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FollowupID: 611936

Reply By: solo20 - Sunday, Jan 18, 2009 at 15:25

Sunday, Jan 18, 2009 at 15:25
Hi,

I know this may sound to simple, but a radiator cap of the wrong pressure will cause over heating.

Cheers
AnswerID: 344932

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