chev 6.5 diesel

hows that Eric?
no change of displacement of oil level, maybe some expansion of oil due to heat?

faulty main bearings? how will they affect the rear main seal?

Regards

Richard

The Canberra "bloke" is Ritchie at Hume Off Road, 6/86 Sheppard St Hume.

Give the man a cigar!!! I totally agree with everything you've said champ.

I've just removed my winch in order to have space available to fit up my Amsoil bypass filtration system with a large BE110 filter (holds 2 litres) as well as an extra "ordinary" filter in addition to the standard filter. The Patrol already has a oil cooler up there too (in front of the air con). I would love to add another 4 or 5 litres by way of a supplementry tank, but not sure how this would work in practical terms. I've looked at the sump and don't believe there is much to be gained (capacity-wise) with the wings idea; maybe a litre at most.

I haven't suffered any heating issues with mine this summer, despite record high temps here in country SA.... I must put this down to the addition of a Toyota viscous hub that replaced the piddly little Nissan unit (off the 4.2TD). It's about twice as big/heavy, so I presume it moves more air.

The oil temp never goes above about 115°C (on a really hot day only), so I think I'm doing okay.

Cheers

Roachie

Gday Blokes
I am sitting here at my computer, applauding the answers from yourself , Mr West and also from Mr Roach..
Many years ago , back in time when i was a little fella like little Wes, we had overheating problems with Atkinson trucks.But the engineer said they had tropical radiators. well that was his answer. I , being a smart arse young bloke said we need Australian made radiators.Almost got the sack for being rite.
The next new unit had good Aussie radiators and larger sump , never had overheating problems.
Murray

See this thread

http://www.exploroz.com/Forum/Topic/65594/LPG_Fumigation_economy_of_65_Chev_since_removal.aspx?ky=&p=%2fForum%2fDefault.aspx%3fpn%3d3

redbakk
I was getting between 6 and 8 klms per litre but it has now come down to 4 Klm per litre.

Neil

Hi Redbakk,
I have done just on 220,000km since the Chevvy 6.5 was fitted in my troopy & the best consumption I've got was 7.4km/ltr on a trip from Alice Springs to Darwin, the worst was 5.5km/ltr doing the Canning Stock Route & the mean average over that period has been around 6.3 km/ltr.
BTW my oil capacity including filter & oil cooler is 8.5 liters & I've never had any overheating or oil leak problems [touch wood]during that period. The engine was one of the first fitted by Brunswick diesels.
Cheers.

I think it depends a bit on whether the Chev is turbo'd or not as to whether it overheats. Mine is naturally asphyxiated (hahaha), so doesn't have the same stresses as one that wears a hair dryer.

The thing I WOULD LIKE to do is fit a larger, more free-flowing, 4" custom snorkel. The Safari snorkel goes through too many bends and is pretty narrow compared to the plumbing under the bonnet.

Roachie

Hi Roachie, mine is normally aspirated too. Talking about air flow restriction, when I had the Safarie Snorkel fitted on my bus just out of curiosity I had an air-flow manometer test done before & after to see what difference it made & there was very little change in the readings. Unfortunately I have lost the record of the testso can't relate what the readings were. I do remember it was a stationary one & not done while the vehicle was moving at speed.

Something has changed if it did not do it b4, my guess is when the turbo is boosting, there is some leaking into the sump. be it by rings or other....time to get the motor looked at under warrenty.
Andrew

[quote] The therory on oil capacity makes a lot of sense but ours has a bit more than stated by flywest at 7.6Litres plus filter [/Quote]

Hi Neil,

Hopefully you can see from the examples above of:-

Lancruiser 4.2 liter TD at 10 liters oil
Ford F 250 7.3 liter T D at 18 liters oil

that probably your engine needs somewhere around 15 liters (or twice what you have now) to be able to let the oil sit in the sump long enough to cool down any!

One of the suggestions here aout having a oil temp sender in the sump and a gauge on the dash is an EXCELLENT idea - because it allows you to monitor whats happeneing inside your engine temps wise - just as a temp gauge for the water cooling system does!

The old Chev 6.5's didn't originally come with turbos, but they do seem to take them after market well enough.

Because turboeing a diesel engine aftermarket adds a LOT of extra heat to the piston crowns - you find that many diesel engines designed specifically for turboes have cooling mechanisms built into the oil system - such as oil squirters under the piston crown in top of the con rod that sprays sump oil under the piston crown, to take the heat of combustion away and into the sump oil so it can be cooled in a oil cooler radiator out front of the vehicle.

Some also have ceramic coated piston crowns to deal wth the higher combustion temps.

If the Chev 6.5 which is a naturally aspirated engine is turboed - this extra heat in the piston crown needs to be watched carefully under loads like a winnebego might experience into a headwind and on steep grades! (or if you tow anything)

For that reason I'd strongly suggest addition of a EGT (Exhaust Gas Temp) Gauge, run from a Pyrometer inserted into the exhaust pipe just after the turbo.

With engine oil temp monitored - and some extra oil capacity and oil cooling capacity with an after market oil cooler, the Exhaust gasses temps monitored - you should be able to tell - just how hot that engine and it's sump oil and the pistons crowns etc are all getting via the gauges!

I reckon your baking the rear seals and cooking them - its not the seals that are faulty it's that they are being run hotter than they are designed to cope with.



These three gauges in my F 250 monitor (from the left)

EGT (Exhaust Gas temp) - 550 C
Auto Trans Oil temp - 75 C
Turbo Boost - 15 PSI

This is as hot as I've ever had the F 250 - it was a 44 C day hauling my 4.5 tonnes of loaded boat into Exmouth over the steep Cape Range, into a 40 knot headwind!

If you had simmilar gauges added to the Winnebego - you too could "monitor" your various temps - especially the oil temp and know if you were getting it too hot and doing damage to the oil seals.

The Chevs are a much under rated engine - because so few of the after market installers that use them do anything to correct the oil shortage issue - and as a result they have an undeserved reputation for getting hot & as a result - leaking oil!

Boiling oil gets soo thin it doesnt meet its viscosity / lubricity specs and premature wear can result leading to bow bye and positive cranck case pressure issues which will only exacerbate the rear seal leaking problem.

I don't know if you have a auto tranny in that Winnebego - but if you do...



This is why I have an auto trans oil temp gauge - because excess heat from your engine will work its way thru the various metal parts of the engine etc into your trans oil and help chew up your torque converter and auto trans prematurely as well.

These are all issues here in Oz where as everyone knows it can get damn hot in our outback.



This is the crap that accumulates inside your auto tranny when it overheats and your burning the oil and wet clucthes!

I added a 3 quart larger alloy transmission pan with cooling fins & and after market transmission oil cooler radiator out front, too keep the tranny oil cool!





This is what convinced me to do such mods!



It's a used oil analysis report (on my transmission fluid) showing that the unit had been run hot and the oil report came back as "abnormal" with high wear metal contents from excessive wear and the oil badly oxidised (burnt).

Basically - you can tell if you have a sump oil overheating issue - very simply - buy buying a "Used Oil Analysis" testing kit from Westrac Equipment (Caterpillar Dealer) and having a sample of your sump oil analysed.

It will tell you firstly if your oils getting too hot and as a result it has oxidised badly - but also if you have ring wear problems leading to blow by - thru excess metal readings etc etc (Chrome for the rings).

Rather than "guessing" what your particular problem is - why not let a used oil analyisis test from Cat agent for about $50 or $70 bucks give you some factual evidence upon which to start making educated guesses!

I've told you what I reckon based on my experiences with a couple T/Diesel engines and from reading about lots of Chev 6.5 owners who alll seem to suffer the same results.

If your serious - then you'll start a process of elimination to get at the real issue!

It probably should start wth a used sump / engine oil analysis to see where you are at first, Sump Oil and EGT Gaugues and THEN start taking measures to address whatever issues you find the oil is telling you, are problems headed your way.

I'm betting it is Excess Oil temp - but heck - it COULD be somethig else - or even something simple.

At least with some empirical data you have somewhere to START looking!

When you DO get your used oil analaysis sample back - you'll need to bring yourself up to speed with what all the numbers mean, and a read of the BITOG web forums will help that learning curve process immensely - you can even post your own used engine oil results there and get advice from the forum experts - who, being US based, will be intimately familiar with the 6.5 Chev engine in all it's configurations including turboed & in winnebago's!

BITOG (Bob Is The Oil Guy) http:///www.bitog.com

If I can assist you thru this process in a step by step logical process then I'm only too happy to do so!

You can email me shann_low@hotmail.com if I can be of any help, getting to the bottom of your CHEV 6.5 problem!

As others have stated the people in WA down in Brunswick (Brunswick diesels) do nothing but Chev engine transplants and are a good source of info as well.

Best of luck with it.

I have no vested fiscal interest in Chev Engines - I'm just offering my advice free based on what I learned going thru a similar process.

Take it or leave it, for what it is worth.

Cheers

Good afternoon Neil And Pauline.

Just wondering where you are at the moment and are you in WA????????.

Cheers for now...William H....Bunbury,,,,WA.

Peter,

Thanks for letting us (or "me" anyway....hahaha) what that item is (CDR valve). Where can I buy one of those units? (I could always phone Brunswick Diesel i guess).

I've often wondered whether it might be wise to remove it and replace it with a catch can of some description? I've had my 6.5 for over 45,000klm and have never removed/cleaned that "tin can" at all!!!

I'm also curious about your oil capacity @ 10 litres? I'm guessing this takes into account the extra filter and oil cooler. I'm hoping to add about 3 litres capacity to mine when I get the Amsoil remote bypass filtration system refitted.

Cheers

Roachie

Bill
I usually buy them off ebay, do search on either CDR valve or Humvee and you can usually find them.
I would just pull it off and wash it out, just fill it with diesel, let it soak for a while and then give it a quick rinse with a bit of petrol.
Make sure it is dry with no fuel residue before refitting ;-))).
They have a diaphragm in them so do eventually play up.
The original one on my Humvee is now 21 y/o and I washed it out about six years ago and then about 3 years ago. I fitted a new one the year before last just coz I had a couple of spares.
If you ever want injection system parts (injectors, injection pumps or lines etc) get them from "Hectors Injectors" on ebay.com (not ebay au), very good to deal with and cheap as. I just bought a full set of injectors, return lines, clips etc for $200 plus postage. Pumps start around $350 fully reco with new hard parts.

Thanks for that Peter....great advice. I'll take it off and wash it out this weekend.

Cheers mate

Roachie