overheating 1hz 79 ser cause found!

Submitted: Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 08:19
ThreadID: 65959 Views:5179 Replies:7 FollowUps:12
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Well for those who have followed my posts in the past few months, if your wondering what has happend with slight red face, ill explain!

a few months ago i stated the problems i have been having with my cruiser. OVER heating up long hills and i think what throw me off was the book it come with stating that on hot days the temp can climbe on long hills.
After replacing everything under the sun, large PWR performance radiators, caps, hoses,pump, thermostats cant remeber how many coolant bottles i went through, its cost me $1000's.
with the bull bar i have, it is one of those shiny polished aluminium ones with the aluminium grills welded to protect the lights and grill.
with a 4 inch wide post right in the middle of it
So last i had to go to brisbane from stanthorpe yesterday so i thought someone did mention to me last time that it could be the bar or lights, so i got the grinder out and cut the grills off went for a drive and made alot of difference but still got alitle warm.
So then i cut the wires to the spotlights and and removed the lights entirely.
Drove down to brisbane picked up 22 ironbark sleepers (1.5 ton)and decided to cain it up the cunninghams gap where it always got warm even in winter empty.i turned the aircond on as well on full to strain the motor even further temp did not move at all for the first time in 4 years the needle never moved at all on a trip. and as a bonus it seemed to have more power, why i dont know but maybe the engine running cooler on the road must have made a difference.
So if anyone is having trouble with 1hz and u have tried the viscus, radiator hoses, and thermostat. dont do what i did or it will cost you $$$.spotlights and bullbars would have to be ur next step.
Thank you for those who have helped in the past
Oh i am on the look out for an ARB bar if anyone has one with a winch if possible but ok if not.
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Reply By: Member Brian (Gold Coast) - Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 08:44

Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 08:44
Glad to hear you got it sorted.... who woulda thought that lights and a bit og bar would make that much difference?


AnswerID: 348974

Reply By: Member - Ian H (NSW) - Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 08:48

Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 08:48
Hi Iccy. I guess hindsight tells us to put the vehicle back to how it was built, that is without all our bolt on must haves, and try it again. Then refit the extras till the problem returns. But alas that is the power of hindsight. We have a 80 series with bar, winch and 2 IPF 900 lights and the temp guage has never moved except once years ago when the viscous coupling failed.
Glad to see all is well.
AnswerID: 348975

Reply By: Member - Doug T (NT) - Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 09:32

Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 09:32
That's why I always smile when I see clowns with 2 huge driving lights stuck right in the middle of the airflow, like the large Lightforce, I have the 170" and that is ample , you can see the difference in the below photo's between a pair of Cibies and 170" Lightforce.

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AnswerID: 348987

Follow Up By: Malleerv - Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 10:10

Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 10:10
I'm a clown with two big spotties in the middle of the Bullbar. Has never made any difference to my temp gauge, still sits in the same place as before I put the bar and lights on so I guess I'll just keep clownin around!!

FollowupID: 617205

Follow Up By: Ozrover - Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 13:18

Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 13:18
Yep, I must be a bit clownish as well, I've got two Lightforce 240s in the middle of the b-bar & had IPF 900s before that & the gauge sits in the middle rain, hail, shine, snow & desert! big shiny ally bar it is too!
FollowupID: 617238

Follow Up By: That Troopy Bloke (SA) - Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 15:27

Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 15:27
I wouldn't get too smug about the factory temp gauge. Mine sits right in the middle too, but I recently fitted one of these Engine Watchdog
This shows that the factory gauge hits the normal mark at 55 degrees, and stays there all the way to over 100 degrees before it starts to move off.
IMO 100 degrees is starting to approach dangerous territory.

FollowupID: 617255

Follow Up By: Member - Zig (WA) - Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 19:59

Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 19:59
I'm one of those clowns with a couple of Lightforce 240's as well. My cruiser does get warm (not overheating) on a hot day towing. Removing the lights make NO difference at all. This is on an aftermarket temp gauge. The factory doesn't move at all.
The 240's are great at night.
FollowupID: 617297

Follow Up By: Ozrover - Sunday, Feb 15, 2009 at 13:30

Sunday, Feb 15, 2009 at 13:30
Gerday TTB, I'm not being smug, just stating facts.
BUT you now have me worried about the standard temp' gauge in the cruiser, I had a look at the Engine watchdog that you mentioned & it looks the goods, where on the engine did you mound the sensor?
FollowupID: 617403

Follow Up By: That Troopy Bloke (SA) - Sunday, Feb 15, 2009 at 14:19

Sunday, Feb 15, 2009 at 14:19
Sorry Jeff, perhaps 'smug' wasn't the best choice of word.
What I meant was when you are driving along, smugly believing that all is well because the gauges tell you so.

I mounted the sensor for mine under the uppermost bolt head on the alloy housing where the coolant leaves the head. Just behind the timing cover, where the top radiator hose attaches. The factory temp sender is also in this housing.

FollowupID: 617415

Reply By: toyocrusa - Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 10:12

Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 10:12
Years ago(1970's) I put a flyscreen mesh across the front of a Range Rover to stop bugs clogging the radiator before a trip to Cairns. Car ran hot when up at 90/100 kph,took it off along the way and even with bugs it still ran back at normal temp. Read your first post but didn't think of that till you mentioned it now. Talk about old brain cells. Glad you worked it out. Bob.
AnswerID: 348991

Reply By: Saharaman (aka Geepeem) - Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 10:23

Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 10:23
Yes it is possible to cause overheating by extras lights.
I had the same problem until I removed these monsters....
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AnswerID: 348995

Follow Up By: Rolly - Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 16:13

Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 16:13
Holy snappin' Duck $h1t !!!!!

Had you guys even thought of the amount of turbulence, and therefore impeded airflow, that the flat sections of those bars would create??????
OK, I do have a background in aviation to give credit to, but the net result of those spotties and the roobar created air currents would have much the same effect as mounting a house door across the front of the car.
FollowupID: 617261

Follow Up By: Saharaman (aka Geepeem) - Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 20:20

Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 20:20
Well it doesnt seem to effect fuel economy - I get 12.5 litres per 100km which is about as good as you will get out of a 12HT turbo diesel. There is no whistling sound so I dont think there can be too much turbulance - it just seems to slide through the air at 110kph. The round spotties are now gone as they contributed to engine running hot - see profile image of new smaller rectangular spotties.
This is one of the best 12HT turbos I have ever driven - just powers up the hills and I think would go close to pulling 140KPh on level road as at 110 there is plenty left in it.
Maybe without the bullbar it would do even better....lol
FollowupID: 617300

Follow Up By: Davo_60 - Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 22:10

Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 22:10
Probably more like 160kph, a good 2h will pull nearly 140 if you have enough road. My 2h turbo will get to 160kph, but have to back off as EGT's get too high. Not that there is much fun in a 60 series at that speed. Would love to have the 12ht!

FollowupID: 617316

Follow Up By: Rolly - Sunday, Feb 15, 2009 at 12:56

Sunday, Feb 15, 2009 at 12:56
Saharaman; Please explain the association of whistling with turbulence.

Aside to others: The temperature gauge on most mass produced vehicles is almost a "con" job. It stays positioned in the 'normal' range over a wide range of water temperatures and really doesn't move into the higher zone until the water is really cooking.

Read thread ID:65972 low water alarm.
FollowupID: 617401

Follow Up By: Saharaman (aka Geepeem) - Sunday, Feb 15, 2009 at 14:00

Sunday, Feb 15, 2009 at 14:00
Hi Rolly,
Well whistling may not be the right word - but if there was turbulance would you not hear the sound of the turbulance buffeting the front windscreen and side window protectors etc.
But even if there was turbulance - if its not effecting fuel consumption who is it a concern. The front of a 60 series is not very aerodynamic in any case so I really dont think the bullbar makes much of a difference to the situation.
Re temp gauges - you may be correct but I have owned 6 different 60 series over the past 20 years and I know exactly where the temp gauge should sit under normal operating conditions - they are all pretty consistent. This one was too high for my liking (a bit over half way under normal conditions and if towing would go up to almost red line). Something was not right. I took off the large round spotties and it dropped the temp a bit but not enough. Radiator shop checked it out and said the problem was radiator was only 3 core - so I put in a new 4 core one. The gauge is now about one third where it should be for a 60 series. But you are probably right about gauges - you probably cant compare different makes and models where the gauge should be - but I think its a fair comparison between same models. And in my case the gauge did react to better cooling - ie did not stay in normal range whatever that is..
FollowupID: 617408

Reply By: iccey_1969 - Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 10:43

Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 10:43
Sahara man,

Yessssssssssss that is the huge bulbar i have hence i am going to sell it now and get an ARB bar so if anyone out there wants to get rid of one please do let me know or ill just order a new one. got a quote $1235.00 fitted
AnswerID: 349002

Follow Up By: Saharaman (aka Geepeem) - Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 20:26

Saturday, Feb 14, 2009 at 20:26
I dont think the bull bar is effecting overheating - in my case it was 2 things - the large round spotties and it only had a 3 core radiator. I put is a 4 core and replaced round spotties with smaller rectangular ones (see profile image) and now I can push it as hard as I can and it will sit on about one third temperature gauge even on hottest day.


FollowupID: 617301

Reply By: awill4x4 - Sunday, Feb 15, 2009 at 09:09

Sunday, Feb 15, 2009 at 09:09
I think we need to put Iccey's problems into perspective, it's all well claiming that "my monster driving lights have little to no effect on engine cooling". But lets compare apples to apples and not Iccey's 79 series with 80, 100 series with their much wider frontal and indeed radiator area.
It's common knowledge that when the turbo 1HDFTe motor was introduced to the Yota range the 100/105's got the intercooler and the 79's didn't. It's not just penny pinching on Toyota's part the smaller frontal area of the 79's meant the introduction of a front mount cooler a la 100/105 caused overheating problems which is why they never came with an i/cooler.
Even now with the new V8 single turbo diesel, do you see a front mount cooler? Nope, they've got a top mount for exactly the same reason.
Regards Andrew.
AnswerID: 349131

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