Battery Selection

I'm needing to replace both my cranking and dual battery on my 80 Series Cruiser and so I have a couple of questions for the dual battery experts of this site.

1. I'm looking at the Century N70ZZL4WD battery as the cranking battery and the Century N70T Deep Cycle battery for the dual system. Any feedback (good or bad) on both these batteries would be appreciated.

2. Should I be looking at some other batteries instead?

3. Do I really need a deep cycle battery as it is only used when we go camping and is only required to run a 40L engel?

Thanks in advance.

Turbocruise
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Reply By: Maîneÿ (wa) has - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 02:52

Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 02:52
ask yourself, why the big weight difference between similar looking batteries, when comparing Cranking Batteries and Deep Cycle Batteries from the same maker ?

Deep Cycle batteries are different INSIDE the case and have different charging and DIS-charging regimes!

Use a battery designed to do a specific job and it will have a long life and also a written warranty to do the job you expect of it.

Mainey . . .
AnswerID: 350917

Reply By: Sigmund - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 06:28

Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 06:28
Suggest you look at the new generation of lead/calcium hybrid batteries to run the fridge.

They have some advantages over AGM. Quicker charging off the alternator, broader usable voltage range and can be used for jump starting a vehicle.
AnswerID: 350921

Reply By: Best Off Road - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 07:46

Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 07:46
I would recommend you have a look at Rocket batteries for your cranker. Hyundai use them. Mine was still strong after 3.5 years when I sold it and the one in the GLW's car is still good after 4.5 years.

They are a sealed calcium battery.

For deep cycle I'd go a REMCO AGM. Mine is over 4 years old and still holds full charge and will charge to 100% from the alternator.

Cheers,

Jim from Best Off Road.

AnswerID: 350927

Reply By: GoneTroppo Member (FNQ) - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 08:01

Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 08:01
I've just put in AC Delco versions of both into my LR

About the same price and a better designed case. (recessed handle) flush filler etc.

My theory is to use these "standard" read "cheaper" batteries rather than the HI tech ones and then religiously replace them at 2.5 years.

If there is any life left I use them to power electric fences.

I have used optima and others and don't believe you get value over a period. Yes you get another year or so but they still go suddenly. My way gives peace of mind at a fixed and reasonalble cost

I accept not everyone has a use for nearly expired batteries so you'd have to make the call there.
AnswerID: 350929

Follow Up By: Rockape - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 09:24

Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 09:24
Just another side of Optima battery's.

Have used them for years, my main battery is a red top 800cca and a yellow top starting/deep cycle battery 750cca.

You do pay a penalty by having a dual starter/deep cycle as the deep cycle side is only 60a/h. The advantage for me is both battery's are capable of starting the engine and they are separated by a manual isolation switch, it only fails to work when I fail to switch it.

As for life, the yellow tops I get for free as they are retired when they are 2yrs old on a critical piece of machinery at work.

One I retired at 8yrs old, not because it was playing up, I just believed it was getting a bit long in the tooth. It still holds charge and I started my son's car with it a couple of months back. The other yellow to is 5yrs old.

Note! you have to be careful of the terminal posts, if you swing on them you can pull them out of the plastic moulding.

Never had on fail at work and they they sit and are charged in way our 60c temps all summer.

Have a good one.
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FollowupID: 619212

Follow Up By: Rockape - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 13:21

Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 13:21
should have read,

(Never had one fail at work and they sit and are charged in way over 60c temps all summer)

Brain snaps and dyslexia are getting more common these days.
Must be something I am eating.
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FollowupID: 619257

Reply By: Member - Oldplodder (QLD) - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 09:53

Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 09:53
I hate to say it, but I remember working on the Yuasa 4wd battery 20 years ago when I was doing the drawings for the engineer designing them. The design is a good one, with deeper depth under the plates for sludge, and heavier plates to counter vibration so the lead oxide paste doesn't drop out as easily. It would be one of the better designs for a lead acid battery for 4wding.

But the other batteries mentioned above are a good alternative. Of course it comes down to dollars too!

I have been running 2 x N70ZZ cranking batteries, and they have worked well, one feeding the 29l engel. After our last trip to the NT, I am thinking of going to a deep cycle, or AGM, or calcium for the fridge, just so I can recharge it more quickly. Find once the 2nd battery is down (50% charge - 12.0v?), it takes a good 4 to 6 hours of running to bring it right back up again. I do rotate them every 6 to 12 months, and get about 3 to 5 years out of them.
AnswerID: 350936

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 10:04

Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 10:04
I'd prefer to run a pair of Century Overlander N70 wet cell batteries. They are a dual purpose battery and you can swap them from time to time. Exide extremes are similar.

Deep cycle and Calcium batteries don't seem to go well in Landcuisers because of lowish charging voltage. The technology may be "good" but that's no good if they sulphate up and don't go the distance.
AnswerID: 350940

Follow Up By: Maîneÿ [wa] - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 10:21

Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 10:21
Phil,
Yes, as you say no good using the better technology battery if it's not compatible with the vehicle you drive.

However, in some cases you can replace your Voltage Regulator to get a better charging regime with your accessory battery, just as I've done.

Mainey . . .
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FollowupID: 619219

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 13:59

Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 13:59
Mainey,
What is your "better charging regime"?
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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ [wa] - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 15:37

Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 15:37
Phil,
it depends on the Voltage Regulator your vehicle use's ?
With mine I can just unclip the reg and replace it with a different one to get better charging characteristics into the Aux battery system.

Talk with your local AUTO elec, ask him if your reg is either adjustable or replaceable, he may have the replacement product on the shelf.

I have placed a photo and named the exact specs somewhere on here previously, but could not find it when I searched today.

Mainey . . .
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FollowupID: 619278

Reply By: Sea-Dog - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 10:52

Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 10:52
I changed my batts over on my 80 series about 18 months ago now for a couple of Supercharge Allrounders... they have a CCA of 700 from memory and are rated at 105a/h... I know the retail is lot more than the $160 a side I paid but I have been happy with mine to date.

My dual setup uses the standard solenoid isolator but runs the 80L Waeco while away on camping trips without any real probs.
AnswerID: 350949

Follow Up By: Falco80 - Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 12:55

Wednesday, Feb 25, 2009 at 12:55
I had two of these in my previous petrol 80 and they worked well. I replaced one a few months back and it cost $240 i think. It's a bit of money, but i'm not too familiar with prices of other similair batteries.

Cheers,
Dan
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FollowupID: 619256

Follow Up By: Kroozer - Thursday, Feb 26, 2009 at 05:40

Thursday, Feb 26, 2009 at 05:40
Yeah im pretty sure mine are both Supercharge Silver N770Zs, cost $200 each but come with a 2 year warranty. Both are cranking batteries as i dont have to run a fridge or anything, mainly just so i know when im out remote, if one battery goes down i still have the other for backup. From Allvolts, no receipt needed as its marked into the battery. Plenty of cranking power in them, not sure of Amp hours and stuff though.
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FollowupID: 619383

Follow Up By: Sea-Dog - Thursday, Feb 26, 2009 at 09:48

Thursday, Feb 26, 2009 at 09:48
Mine only came with 12 month warranty and I thought one of them had a problem a few months back when the little eye thing on top turned red... took it to battery world for a warranty claim as the battery is marked with the month and year purchased on the stickers but they said that they need the receipt for a warranty claim regardless.... I don't have the receipt for them :(

Turns out the battery was ok anyway after they ran all their tests and the guy said that the little green / red eye thing is a bit misleading as it simply means the battery has at some time in its life been low on charge so it turned red... says the eye doesn't go back to green again.... however I checked it on the weekend just gone and mine has gone back to being green again just sitting under the bonnet??
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FollowupID: 619396

Follow Up By: Member - Chris & Debbie (QLD) - Thursday, Feb 26, 2009 at 10:52

Thursday, Feb 26, 2009 at 10:52
Sea-Dog
I have the same batteries in my cruiser but have not had them long enough to form an opinion.
But with the warranty, after checking on the Supercharge web site, say you do not need the reciept. Here's an extract

"Proof of purchase is needed to claim warranty. If this is not available, the warranty period will be determined from the date code stamped on the casing. As soon as it is determined that the battery is defective and is within its specified warranty, due to faulty manufacturing, it will be replaced with an equivalent battery free of charge."

Chris
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