Wednesday, Mar 04, 2009 at 16:37
Bob,
you say: "Inside it goes through a fuse before getting to the batteries so another one is not needed"
May I suggest each battery (+) cable requires a fuse as close as possible to the (+) terminal of *each* battery.
The reason being, the current flows from *both* batteries with-in the power system.
If battery (a) has a fuse and shorts half way to battery (b) then the current from battery (a) will no longer run past the blown fuse, however - current from battery (b) will still run along the battery cable to the 'short' and may continue to do further damage !!
With your "equalisation" post, it is technically correct only if the 'isolator' is a dumb or manual switch.
Said *simplistically* with the modern 'smart' isolators, the cranker battery will start the vehicle, then when the crank battery is seen to be fully charged the isolator will then add the auxiliary battery into the charging circuit.
The isolator will automatically disconnect the cranking battery from the auxiliary battery system when the cranking battery is getting down to hypothetical low(ish) voltages (11.?v maybe 12.?v) because of the phenomenon you mention of "equalisation" depending on the type of battery isolator, as they use slightly different disconnect voltages.
Basically the crank battery and auxiliary battery will be reconnected again when the cranking battery is once again seen as fully charged
( for often only a few seconds as can be heard by the 'chattering' of a mechanical solenoid )
This continues till the auxiliary battery system is a similar voltage to the disconnect voltage of the battery isolator and all batteries will then remain connected and charge as just one large battery.
Mainey . . .
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