Turbo or Non-turbo

Your post is not really clear but if you are concerned regarding the reliability of turbo-charged diesel engines then get over it.

Turbo diesel engines have been around for a very very long time now and whilst there are always the odd failure the technology, linked with developments like variable vane turbo's, direct injection and engine management systems linked to traction control etc then there are no problems except the occassional ones. Heavy transport and the mining industry, static power generation, race cars et al use turbo's to increase power, fuel efficiency and reliability.

The higher risks of failure come from poor after market conversions. But it needs to be acknowledged that there are plenty of very good after market turbo kits around as well.

If you drive a turbo diesel back to back with a non-turbo version then the decision is a simple one.

As for servicing costs we see nothing special in the costs when you compare any 4WD TDI on the Australian market.

RobA

Isnt necessarilly engines with turbos. Most Toyotas dont seem to have problems Its that other make that has the probs and really only in one motor.

If you want a slug but reliable go non turbo.

A turbo' d motor gives more power and not always at the expense of economy.

Toyota advise service or replace at 150,000.

BBA
I reckon turbodiesels are great if that is what they are designed for, such as the Toyota Land cruiser 1HD-FTE turbo diesel.
But I believe when you attach a turbo to a no turbo motor such as the land cruiser 1HZ motor(which is very reliable in standard form), you are asking for problems, I stand to correction here, but I would imagine a non turbo diesel motor has a very high compression ratio such as 22:1, whereas as a turbo diesel motor would be more like 16:1.
From what I have read on forums, is that some 1HZ motors with after market turbo's have ended up with cracked pistons, I figure that is due to the high compression pistons struggling to cope with the forced induction, maybe the pistons need to be changed to drop the compression when adding a turbo, if that is'nt been done.
BTW the 1HZ and 1HD-FTE have a lot of differences, the 1HD-FTE is I think 4 valves per cylinder, where the 1HZ is 2 valves per cyl.
These points I have given are only my assumptions, please correct me if I am wrong.

Hi,

I am not the mechanic Matt is however I do beleive that sometimes prob's can arise when fitting a non genuine turbo (after market!!!). We have a turbo diesel 80 series and have never had an issue. As I said not 100% sure.


Cheers
Caroline

There is no denying that adding a turbo to an engine thats not designed to have one can causse problems.The trick is in tuning it afterwards.
You want a good engine to start with, then get injectors and pump rebuilt, have valve clearances checked and a comp. check.Then make sure the cooling system is 100%, if in doubt have the rad. tested, replace the thermostat, top up the thermo fan hub and replace the radiator.
After fitting the turbo, FIT a EGT gauge and drive by it.If the thermocouple is post turbo(in the dump pipe) you dont want temps over 550deg C(I set mine for max of 500deg C).Have an experianced person set up the fuel pump(fuel delivery and pump timing).Alot of people fit boost gauges, I made up a temp. one while setting up the turbo and then removed it.EGT's are of more importance as when boost is increasing, so will your EGT's so you know to back off abit.(IMHO)
And then fit an InterCooler, the cooler the air, the better.
It will transform your slug into a great vehicle to drive.

your post isnt clear
if you mean new vehicles the last non turbo vehicle was stopped importation into australia end of 07 (approx) being the 1hz 79 ute and the standard 100 series wagon stopped a simular time

since then no non turbo diesal 4wd has been available new in australia.

I believe at the time the 1hz 79 ute was the slowest vehicle available on the australian market