Radiator for a 75 series 1995 Troopy

Submitted: Monday, May 18, 2009 at 12:36
ThreadID: 68941 Views:4541 Replies:5 FollowUps:1
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Good morning all

The radiator in the troopy is original. It does not have a greeny colour fluid in it, instead it appears to have a mild rusty colour, probably just water.

It also has a bit of greenyblue dribble down the top tank where the radiator cap fits on. In the same area it looks as though a little bit of the copper tank has been eaten away.

After reading a few horror stories I thought I might get it checked out at a radiator place when I get back to Scone. I'm in Mt Isa at the moment and the troopy is sulking in Scone.

I have seen on ebay an ASI dual core high performance aluminium radiator for $380 plus $50 delivery. Are they any good or should I go for a copper radiator for $460,,,,,,or is there any other radiator I should consider?

My mechanical skills are limited so please exuse me if I have made any technical errors.

Regards BooBoo

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Reply By: Member -Signman - Monday, May 18, 2009 at 12:45

Monday, May 18, 2009 at 12:45
I had the bottom tank (on the radiator) wear thru on the stoneguard. It cried green blood for a while till I ran some stop leak thru it.
On returns from the trip I had it replaced- and it was a three core job for (from memory) about $500, including new hoses all round!!
The additive is not necessary there for radiator protection- more the ally components on the engine. If you do an overhaul, suggest you do use additive, and as important to the correct ratio !!

AnswerID: 365494

Reply By: troopyman - Monday, May 18, 2009 at 13:40

Monday, May 18, 2009 at 13:40
What about all the other alloy bits it will be affecting . Replace with the aftermarket non aluminium one and get the right coolant in there when you get back to Scone . Power flush out and replace every 12 months . No , a garden hose flush isnt good enough .
AnswerID: 365500

Reply By: Rod W - Monday, May 18, 2009 at 17:36

Monday, May 18, 2009 at 17:36
Had a similar experience with my 93 Troopy petrol. Couldn't get replacement top/bottom plastic tanks. A new tojo radiator was a $1,000, said no thanks to that. Shopped around and got a copper radiator for around $560.

So I'd go for copper and I'd use the genuine tojo coolant additive the red stuff and not the green lolly water stuff
AnswerID: 365527

Reply By: oldred83 - Wednesday, May 20, 2009 at 22:10

Wednesday, May 20, 2009 at 22:10
G'Day Boo Boo

I agree with the responses above... The coolant not only provides a higher boiling point and a lower freezing point, but it also helps prevent corrosion. When dissimilar metals are in contact with each other through a conductive fluid (remember those electrolysis experiments back in school) corrosion is promoted and the more the pH level of the fluid is away from neutral the worse it is. Modern day coolants also do NOT have a forever shelf life and yes they should be drained and flushed and a new fluid added about every 12 to 18 months.

If you have not had coolant in your radiator,the copper tanks and possibly the soldered joints have corroded. A green stain associated with a white crusty corrosion build up is a pretty convincing sign the radiator is corroded.. Dismantling of the radiator at a radiator repair workshop will no doubt confirm this... Depending on the corrosion damage to date, it may be able to be repaired, but reliability could be a major concern... Where will the radiator commence leaking from next time? Where the core tubes fit into the top or bottom tanks is a likely area.

In terms of thermal efficiency, copper is a better conductor than aluminium. In terms of physics, a copper radiator sprayed flat black is about as good as you can get. I think you will find aluminium and plastic are much cheaper than copper and as such many modern radiators are made out of these materials.

If you are interested, I have a second hand custom made copper radiator for a 1983 60 Series Landcruiser for sale... I think the mountings for the 75 Series and the 60 Series are the same...? You will need to check that out..! The Radiator is a monster - 6 tubes thick and increases water capacity by a couple of litres. Because the radiator is much thicker, you may have to have your fan drive hub spacer machined back to keep the relationship between the cooling fan and the fan shroud in a standard position.

Unfortunately the radiator has suffered a bit of core damage when I had a cooling fan blade brake off... About 6 or 8 tubes have been blocked off to prevent leakage.. I can send photos if you wish.

The other problem is the top and bottom radiator hose inlet and outlet.. They are also larger as this radiator was in front of a 6.5 Lt V8 Chev diesel. The top radiator hose inlet is in the passengers side and the bottom radiator hose outlet is on the drivers side... A good radiator shop could convert these back to standard 75 Series Inlet and outlet...

Only want $100.00 plus postage... Let me know

Cheers
Oldred83
AnswerID: 365905

Follow Up By: Member - Boo Boo (NSW) - Saturday, May 23, 2009 at 10:25

Saturday, May 23, 2009 at 10:25
Thanks for the offer Oldred, but I have decided to go with a Toyota replacement.

Regards BooBoo
0
FollowupID: 634019

Reply By: Member - ross m (WA) - Wednesday, May 20, 2009 at 23:01

Wednesday, May 20, 2009 at 23:01
I would get the standard aftermarket radiaitor,not the aluminiuln job.
Use Toyota red coolant. The little bit extra for their coolant is worth it.
I would also get it flushed good and proper.
Check the alloy coolant outlet from the head for corrosion and the one at the bottom also.
I would also do the hoses and clamps.
Check for corrosion around the heater inlet/outlet on the firewall
Your new rad should come with a cap,if not get one.

Pray the water pump is not corroded,its a pain to change.
AnswerID: 365911

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