I know its been done to death, BUT?

yeah been going to the beach for over 30 years tried everything from sump oil to fish oil ,lanolin product rust protectors even electronic rubbish ask the pro wormer's and fishermen what they think of them. a mate had one attached to his hi lux took it back 2days after the 12month service and they voided the warranty,snake oil.the best we have found is penetrol dries hard so the sand does not stick to it and you can mix some paint with it if you like dags

Kroozer.....I wash the outside of my troopy with wash and wax after every trip to the beach and I wash up inside the wheel arches around the front bar and around the rear etc and also hose any components underneath to make sure I remove any salt etc.

Four to five times a year, she gets a coat of turtle wax as well....it's what I call polishing five acres..lol

But about once a year I spray all underneath and inside panels ( anywhere wherewater can get to it) with heavy duty lanolin...cost's a bit but it always looks good as the oil soaks into the metal and keeps it protected.....I don't do the muffler or exhaust pipe although it may cop an overspray.

I have had the troopy a number of years now and she still looks good with no rust.

Well all i can say is that i have been driving the troopy on fraser for 10 years . I dont drive thru salt water . I spray underneath and inside panels with one third sump oil(strained thru a chux) and two thirds diesel after i get back home from a trip , not before . Spray on with a 9 litre garden sprayer . I spend twenty bucks at the under car wash at rainbow beach after every run . I also thoroughly hose the sand off and out of everything with a staun masojet connect to the garden hose for hours on end . I use lanox inside the cabin . The underneath is like new . No rust whatsoever .

I try to stay off the beach in my car.....prefer to hire one for the limited times I want to go beach running. That said, in the past I've given the vehicle a thorough wash and spray lanotec in all the nooks and crannies after beach running.

Kroozer to go back to your question. I chose Coupler Tec over EPRS because each patch is run in parallel. EPRS run theirs in series. I can't tell if there is any difference between the two. I spoke extensively with the guys from CouplerTec and they were up front with answers. Nothing stops rust, but they claim you can slow it down. I go on the beach 2 - 3 times a year, so I don't place my vehicle in a constant high corrosive environment. I asked the guy why they don't put life saver's vehicles on display at trade shows and he said because they are on the beach all the time they still get rust, but they last longer with their device than they would without. I did all the undercarriage rust proofing on my last car, a Jackaroo, and it rusted out on the turret. This was not a salt issue but condensation and not letting the cabin air enough. Problem created from parking it on the road with windows up.

My 1999 Pajero had a few minor spots of rust spots when I bought it 6 months ago. I cleaned the underside and sprayed it with Penetrol. After that was dry I sprayed it with Lanotec. I even pulled the liners off in the front guards and did the job properly. I doubt that salt will ever cause me a problem, but I still park it on the road, so I bought the Coupler Tec to fight other types of rust.

Does it work??? I will probably never know, but the paint work hasn't oxidized since I put it on. I can only assume there is some credibility to the other claims. Even if it doesn't stop rust, I don't have to polish the car as frequently, so I'm happy either way.

Murray

Hi, Do both, have the inside sprayed which will last forever, fit the electroninics and have the underneath sprayed, when home after the beach put sprinkler under the car with vehicle on the lawn. But never user a high pressure gernie if you have protected underneath. Col

I put one of the $112 jobbies in a VS Commondore on Bribie Island and it wasnt worth a nob of Goat S**t.
Rust within 3 months.

This topic has been done before and it turned into a very big poo fight. I was a cathodic protection technician before I semi-retired and my job was rust protection of structures using electrical and electronic systems. For these systems to work very specific conditions must exist. Take it from me - these units DO NOT WORK on cars and it is physically and technically impossible to make them work.

My off-sider at the time was at a conference when a very highly esteemed Professor gave a lecture on just why these things can't work. I'm not a Professor but I understand the theory and that's good enough for me.

Unlike the last time this topic was raised, I'm not going to get drawn into an argument as to how and why they don't work - they just don't.

Cheers

Russ.