Does a 100 series require 2 batteries to start it?

Submitted: Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 16:47
ThreadID: 70330 Views:10140 Replies:8 FollowUps:10
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Got talking to the bloke next door to us here in Blackwater the other day and he has two batteries under the bonnet. Not long ago he had a flat battery and thought he would start it of the 2nd battery, but could not find an isolation switch.

He got another battery and was told he needed both to start a 100 series.

I can't believe that this is correct. Can anyone throw some light on this please?
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Reply By: Member - Tour Boy ( Bundy QLD) - Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 16:51

Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 16:51
The T/D 100 series had two starting batteries from the factory. You can use only one if you have the right size (huge) battery. They aren't isolated from each other either.
Cheers
Dave
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AnswerID: 372777

Reply By: Robert HL (SEQ)(aka zuksctr) - Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 17:07

Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 17:07
Boo,i also Believe the two batteries are to start the motor
The F250's are the same, 2 700's & you need to replace both when they Or one fails.


Bob.
AnswerID: 372782

Follow Up By: Member - Boo Boo (NSW) - Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 17:28

Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 17:28
I just spoke to the neighbour and he is getting 2, 900 cold cranking amp batteries.

He is also going to hook up an 80 ltr fridge.

He is going to see if one that size will be enough to turn it over and isolate the other.
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Reply By: Member - Boo Boo (NSW) - Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 17:31

Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 17:31
Forgot to mention that they are a combination cranking and deep cycle.
AnswerID: 372784

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 18:13

Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 18:13
It is very common to isolate the batteries on the HDJ100, and crank off a single battery - same setup as this motor has in the 78/79series. Most will increase the size to N70 to cover the cold starts.

The engine preheat comes off the drivers side battery and everything else off the passenger side battery so most people keep the passengers side battery as the cranking battery, and use the drivers side for the auxillary.
AnswerID: 372788

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 18:15

Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 18:15
Also:

"Not long ago he had a flat battery and thought he would start it of the 2nd battery, but could not find an isolation switch. "

If he had a flat battery....he actually had 2 flat batteries. They are permanently paralleled.
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FollowupID: 640047

Follow Up By: Member - JohnR (Vic) - Friday, Jul 03, 2009 at 13:49

Friday, Jul 03, 2009 at 13:49
More good advice from Phil. I have a smart solenoid between my two batteries.

Nice to catch up with you two Phil, when we were in Adelaide. We are trying to make sure we can camp away from the Karavan some times with the gear we are getting into these days, though the Karavan is the comfort stop. Cheers mate......
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Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 18:18

Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 18:18
The absolute truth is that Toyota put two batteries in for cold climate starting.'

And before you all start I know that doesnt apply here.

However it is probably easier and cheaper to do them all the same.

They are connected pos to pos to give 12 volts so there is no isolation switch.

The original two if you care to look are only around 400CCA even though they are about the same size a an N70.

I split mine and replaced thim with two Yaeusu hybrids of eqiv size to N70.

To do this you have to alter a few things but is quite easy

One is absolutely adequate to start it on all but perhaps sub zero temps.

However I put in a relay that hooks them together as original just to start it.

If you also look at their wiring looms they are identical in almost all models as for the reasons above.
Some other country models differ as I got two heated seat switches out of an NZ Sahara and the wiring was different under the console.

AnswerID: 372789

Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 18:21

Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 18:21
The main thing apart from what has been mentioned above is that you have to extend the alternator supply to the left side battery as the r/h one becomes the auxillary



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FollowupID: 640048

Reply By: Member - Stuart P (WA) - Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 20:15

Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 20:15
simply put in a smart solenoid extend the positive battery leads to suit. you wont have to touch the alt wiring. or put a cole hersee(m750) switch in
AnswerID: 372806

Follow Up By: Muddie - Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 20:48

Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 20:48
Its dead easy, just replace the driver side with a deep cycle and add an isolator using the original link cable.
In my 2005 TD I have run for the last 2 years a Delkor/Puma 27HR -710cca in N70ZZ as my starter and a Delkor/Puma 27DC36 Deep Cycle N70ZZ 115 AH as my aux. with the big Redarc as the isolator.




regards David
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FollowupID: 640070

Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 21:33

Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 21:33
Was told that alternator should be connected to start battery otherwise it will charge aux battery first wont it.

Just seems logical to me and was an autosparky that showed me how to do it.



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FollowupID: 640083

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 23:12

Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 23:12
Graham,
Like Muddie says its dead easy.
Everything will remain connected to the starting battery (LHS). You don't have to touch the alternator wire which remains connected to the LHS battery.

The only feed from the RHS battery is the preheat, and you leave that attached to the cable from the cranking battery when you install the isolator.

It sounds to me like you are trying to use the drivers side battery as the cranking battery which would be the hard way to do it.

Cheers
Phil
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FollowupID: 640115

Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Friday, Jul 03, 2009 at 11:13

Friday, Jul 03, 2009 at 11:13
No Im not.
My r/h is connected to terminal 2 on the isolator and all the accessories are run off a bus on the inner r/h guard.

The sparky showed me what he said was the alternator feed which was connected to a little connector with quite heavy blue wires with a heat cover on them .

He said to extend that to the l/h battery which i have done and have had no trouble.

The other end of the loom disappears down under the intercooler pipes towards the rear of the alternator.

So I dont know other than what I was told.
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FollowupID: 640148

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Friday, Jul 03, 2009 at 23:46

Friday, Jul 03, 2009 at 23:46
Gday Graham,
I may well be wrong, but having isolated a couple of these, my recollection is that the heavy cable coming off the drivers side pos terminal is to the preheat element (via a relay). I thought the alternator feed already went directly to the passenger side battery. I'll have a good look next time I find a mate with a TD 100series!

Cheers
Phil
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FollowupID: 640224

Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Sunday, Jul 05, 2009 at 20:27

Sunday, Jul 05, 2009 at 20:27
You are probably correct I traced the wires back today and the one I was referring to actually shares a cover with the alternator wire but it goes to a connector under the air cleaner so I guess it is the preheat.

My bad.



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FollowupID: 640416

Reply By: Kiwi Ray - Friday, Jul 03, 2009 at 18:16

Friday, Jul 03, 2009 at 18:16
If this truck is an import it could well be a two battery installation with the truck all running at 12 volt but uses a special relay for 24 volt start
Most L/Cs in NZ are like this
Ray
AnswerID: 372954

Reply By: RV Powerstream P/L - Saturday, Jul 04, 2009 at 10:12

Saturday, Jul 04, 2009 at 10:12
The state of the art Sterling ProSplitR 12V 120A 3 outlet zero volt drop manager will eliminate most problems.
The alternator power goes to it and then feeds each battery under the bonnet independently and with safety and you still have a third outlet to run to the rear for a camper which is also independently supplied and monitored.

Distributes the most power to the battery that needs it.

Isolates a battery bank when there is an attempt to backfeed the power from the full battery to a more demanding battery.

Isolates all full battery bank outputs except the main load battery in the event of a massive load on any other battery bank.

Isolates the alternator from all batteries in the event of a failure of the alternators own regulator.This prevents the batteries from boiling.

Isolates any battery that tries to feed back a high voltage from a different source.IE: if there was a defective battery charger on one battery bank trying to feed into another battery bank then the unit would disconnect the battery bank to save the others.

LED display shows which channels are in use and which are not.

Overload design EG the model rated at 180A is actually continuos rated at 240A with overload in excess of 2000Amps

Fail-safe , in the event of unit failure the engine start battery and the alternater remain connected ensuring the safe running of the boat or vehicle. Prioritizes the engine start battery over all other battery bank outputs.

Ian
AnswerID: 373041

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