Does a 100 series require 2 batteries to start it?
Submitted: Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 16:47
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Member - Boo Boo (NSW)
Got talking to the bloke next door to us here in
Blackwater the other day and he has two batteries under the bonnet. Not long ago he had a flat battery and thought he would start it of the 2nd battery, but could not find an isolation switch.
He got another battery and was told he needed both to start a 100 series.
I can't believe that this is correct. Can anyone throw some light on this please?
Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 18:18
Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 18:18
The absolute truth is that Toyota put two batteries in for cold climate starting.'
And before you all start I know that doesnt apply here.
However it is probably easier and cheaper to do them all the same.
They are connected pos to pos to give 12 volts so there is no isolation switch.
The original two if you care to look are only around 400CCA even though they are about the same size a an N70.
I split
mine and replaced thim with two Yaeusu hybrids of eqiv size to N70.
To do this you have to alter a few things but is quite easy
One is absolutely adequate to start it on all but perhaps sub zero temps.
However I put in a relay that hooks them together as original just to start it.
If you also look at their wiring looms they are identical in almost all models as for the reasons above.
Some other country models differ as I got two heated
seat switches out of an NZ Sahara and the wiring was different under the console.
AnswerID:
372789
Follow Up By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 18:21
Thursday, Jul 02, 2009 at 18:21
The main thing apart from what has been mentioned above is that you have to extend the alternator supply to the left side battery as the r/h one becomes the auxillary
FollowupID:
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Reply By: RV Powerstream P/L - Saturday, Jul 04, 2009 at 10:12
Saturday, Jul 04, 2009 at 10:12
The state of the art Sterling ProSplitR 12V 120A 3 outlet zero volt drop manager will eliminate most problems.
The alternator power goes to it and then feeds each battery under the bonnet independently and with safety and you still have a third outlet to run to the rear for a camper which is also independently supplied and monitored.
Distributes the most power to the battery that needs it.
Isolates a battery bank when there is an attempt to backfeed the power from the full battery to a more demanding battery.
Isolates all full battery bank outputs except the main load battery in the event of a massive load on any other battery bank.
Isolates the alternator from all batteries in the event of a failure of the alternators own regulator.This prevents the batteries from boiling.
Isolates any battery that tries to feed back a high voltage from a different source.IE: if there was a defective battery charger on one battery bank trying to feed into another battery bank then the unit would disconnect the battery bank to save the others.
LED display shows which channels are in use and which are not.
Overload design EG the model rated at 180A is actually continuos rated at 240A with overload in excess of 2000Amps
Fail-safe , in the event of unit failure the engine start battery and the alternater remain connected ensuring the safe running of the boat or vehicle. Prioritizes the engine start battery over all other battery bank outputs.
Ian
AnswerID:
373041