GQ patrol with bad front end vibe

Wheel bearings?
Tire balance?
Warped Discs
Front end bushes on control arms, etc
Chunk out of a tire maybe?

Theres a few to start checking :)

wrapt break rotors

Depending on how much wear you
can get them resurficed.

check disc , a machine wont hurt , Craigs hut 2003

Where do you live, I might be able to direct you to a top notch operator on front ends.

Regards

Col Tigwell

David

I have the same problem in my GQ. Its a 4.2 diesel, and whenever we go over a rut or any bumpy part of the road at between 70 - 80km an hour, the whole front end shudders, the gear stick wobbles like its about to pop out and the steering just goes beserk. THe only way to stop it is to break really really suddenly, and drop the speed to about 40km an hour, then speed up again slowly.

I have had the problem for ages, and had the tyres replaced, one - because they needed it, and two - hoping it would fix the problem, but no did do.

The next thing we did was got the suspension checked - that was all fine.

Had a wheel balance and tyre rotation, which stopped it for a bit, but then it came back again.

We still do not know what is causing the problem but for the moment it seems to have stopped, so will wait and see what happens when we start doing the rough stuff again after winter.

Sorry I couldnt help further, but your sons problem really rang true.

Cheers.

Catherine.

Oh yeah been there done that. Horrible. Had it on the MQ. Turned out to be the castor alignment. Could aslo be the pads, rotor, jamming calipers. It's a start

Hi David

Had the same problem myself (although not quite as bad by the sound of it). I tried all the usual things (tyres, alignment/balance, shockers etc.) and nothing seemed to fix it completely. I eventually had it properly checked out by a 4WD specialist and found several things needed doing. Firstly, because I have raised the vehicle by 2 inches, my castor angle was almost non existent. A couple of the rubber bushes at the diff end of the trailing arms were also stuffed - so I had them replaced with offset bushes to bring my castor back to 3.5 degrees. Secondly, the bearings top and bottom of the big steering knuckles on the end of the diff housing were also stuffed with flat spots well worn into the bearing surfaces. These were also replaced. In all, the above work plus having the CV joints cleaned and regreased while they were out, all new seals and gaskets and a change of oil in the front diff, set me back just under $1500.

Sounds like a lot but my car has done over 320,000 hard k's and this has made an incredible difference - like a new car with no wobbles whatsoever. It took them 2 days to do the job so I reckon it was well worth it.

I had it done by Alltrac 4WD in Adelaide - very helpful and very good quality work.

Cheers
Gerry

Just sell it and buy a TOYOTA

OH WHAT A SSSHHHUUUDDDDEEERRRRRRRR My NISSAN

i have the answer we had it our selves on the top and bottom of the front axel at each side above and below of the ball there is a plate bolted on . jack up one side at a time and remove each plate there are shins under each plate remove some on each one. this tightens the bearing and will stop the vib if u take to many out the steering will be come heavy .try this and then replace some if to heavey easy job good luck.ken

I'll throw my 2c in.

I had the same problem. Tried all the usual stuff plus king pin bearings. Turned out to be the panhard rod bushes.

If they are worn, and most of them are, it lets the whole front axle move from side to side. Feels sike it is about to fall out. Usually turning one way or the other will stop it for a short time. Next bump or turn or dab of the brake it comes back.

$50.00 at Pedders in Dubbo had me riding smooth.

Good luck
Duncs