2 1/2" Cruiser Exhaust

Johhny, most exhaust places can get a new flange profile cut to suit the manifold, then a means of welding up the new pipe. Otherwise it is a case of cutting off the old pipe and working the old flange with a grinder or gas axe!

Not sure with the muffler, speak to a specialist!! Shouldnt need too much with the turbo!!
Matt.

Johhny, most exhaust places can get a new flange profile cut to suit the manifold, then a means of welding up the new pipe. Otherwise it is a case of cutting off the old pipe and working the old flange with a grinder or gas axe!

Not sure with the muffler, speak to a specialist!! Shouldnt need too much with the turbo!!
Matt.

Gday
Best way is to cut the old system off and then gut out the flange to join the larger pipe to the flange. Really though, it wouldnt make that much difference leaving an inch of 2 inch pipe off the flange and reducing the 2.5 down to weld on.
The real restrictions are in pipe bends and muffler, it would probably be cheaper to put 3 inch on with normal bends than 2.5 with mandrel bends, use a straight through muffler only (before the diff) as the turbo diesels are not noisy with this configuration. The idea is to reduce turbo exhaust restriction to get faster spool up with less throttle, other things to look at are inlet restriction and intercool with increased boost pressure.
For your reference check out APS charts (Safari) on intercooled t/d 80 series
Andrew wheredayathinkwer mike?

G'day mate,

I'll outline my very recent experience with this and you can make up your own mind.

Firstly I have a 97 75 series 1HZ Troopy with an after market Dynamic Turbo which was fitted approx 2 yrs ago, retaining the factory exhaust. Only evident problem - turbo lag.

I rang Dynamic HQ'S re a change of exhaust sytem and was advised that anything bigger than the exhaust dump pipe diameter is a waste of time and energy. Also a pure 2.5in (no crimp bends which reduce it overall by approx 3/8 in) via a straight through exhaust is the 'ants pants' so to speak.

I am in Melbourne and the diesel pump tech who upgraded/tuned the pump at turbo fitting time, put me onto an exhaust specialist in Lillydale who has done a heap of R&D on Safari turbo exhausts.

Sooooooooh! I had them do their trick and it now works a treat.

Results: Very little turbo lag, less noise funnily enough even though it goes straight through a small resonator do-da. No difference in fuel consumption.

AND it goes between the fuel tanks up out of harms way.

Price: $500

I dropped it off in the morning and and picked it up in the afternoon. This was the best option for me personaly, because I don't have a mig welder and the stress and strain of struggling with it myself was not a nice thought not to mention the skinned knuckles etc etc.

Hope it helps you make an informed decision.

Thanks a bunch Dozer, Matt, Ken

Question: What do you mean by mandrel bends vs crimp bends ? Which type streches the pipe as it is bent? I have only seen this done once (on my old BJ42 stainless exhaust pipe - I was horrified watching with every bend...just waiting for it to snap)...I understand that the restriction by bending should be avoided. Does only a specialized exhaust shop do mandrel bends? I guess I could look into that eh? From your comments, I will re-use the existing flange and either die grind it out for 3" pipe or keep a stub on it and weld on the existing for 2 1/2" - basically dependent on what the exhaust shop can do for me. Thanks again guys!