15, 20 or 30amp regulator...
Submitted: Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 22:31
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Member - Lia H (SA)
Hi,
I've read all of the other threads on this, heading down the path of an MPPT regulator...
What I cant seem to find, probably because its such a basic question is: the regulator takes the higher amount of power, and converts it into a managable amount for the battery to not
cook it - how do I know if I need a 15a, 20a, or 30a regulator?
Thanks. I think I've missed the wood for the trees on this one....but hey...
:)
Reply By: Member - Gizmo-Tron - Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 22:58
Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 22:58
Hi Lia
From what I understand the amperage is what the regulator can deliver on its load terminals.
Personally I don't use the load terminals,
mine is not mounted permanently I only charge the batteries with
mine.
AnswerID:
392100
Follow Up By: Member - Lia H (SA) - Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:06
Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:06
HAHA I have NO idea what you just said. :)
But thanks!
FollowupID:
660041
Follow Up By: Member - Mike DID - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 11:19
Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 11:19
You can connect the Loads (Fridge, Lights etc) directly to the battery or to the Solar Reguator.
If you connect them to an expensive Regulator, it will keep track of power usage and give you an indication of charge remaining the battery.
FollowupID:
660083
Reply By: Matt(WA) - Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:01
Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:01
Lia,
It comes down to how much current your goint to draw through your reg and how much you are going to put in.
I am currently running a Steca 15 amp reg, with 2 x 80w Sharp panels. I have been getting up to 9.3 amps in to the reg in good sun.
I run:
Compressor Fridge - 5 amps
CD Player - >1 amp
8 x LED Lights - about 2 amps if all on
Range hood - 2 amps
Water Pump - 3.5 amps
So if I have everything on at once I guess I will be cutting it close.
We have been living full time in the van now since July and have been fine. Not once have the batterys(2 x 100ah AGMS) dropped bellow 80% SOC.
Hope this helps
Matt
AnswerID:
392101
Follow Up By: Member - Lia H (SA) - Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:05
Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:05
Thanks. I figured it would be something like that...so I need to work out how many amps im taking out...and figure out how many amps the solar panels are likely to put into it?
Confuuuusing...
:)
FollowupID:
660040
Follow Up By: Member - Mike DID - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 11:16
Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 11:16
You could feed a 100 amps into a Microwave with this setup.
The maximum current into the load has nothing to do with the maximum current limit of the panel or the regulator.
The panel charges the battery, the battery supplies the load.
As long as amphours-in exceeds amphours-out by 20%, you won't have a problem.
FollowupID:
660082
Reply By: Matt(WA) - Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:08
Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:08
Its pretty easy if you use one of the solar calculators under members fileswap.
Matt
AnswerID:
392102
Follow Up By: Member - Lia H (SA) - Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:15
Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:15
HEY. That's the first time Ive noticed all that stuff! THANKS.
FollowupID:
660042
Reply By: Matt(WA) - Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:19
Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:19
No Dramas,
If you are unsure what size to get, it better to go with the largest capacity you can afford.
Matt
AnswerID:
392104
Follow Up By: Member - Lia H (SA) - Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:21
Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:21
Well I kinda thought that, but then I read things about voltage drops and I didnt know whether if you got one that was surplus to requirements, if it would cause inefficiency.
FollowupID:
660043
Follow Up By: Member - Fred B (NT) - Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:51
Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:51
Voltage drop happens when cables are too small for the job or the battery is to far away and the cables too small.... or a charger too small to do the job..
regards
FollowupID:
660045
Reply By: Member - Ed. C. (QLD) - Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:48
Saturday, Nov 21, 2009 at 23:48
How big a solar panel/array are you intending to use ?
The Morningstar SunSaver MPPT (15amp) controller will accept up to 200 Watts solar input (12 volt battery), or 400 Watts (24v batt)...
Morningstar SunSaver MPPT
With the exchange rate as it is right now, these are very affordable if purchased from any of several sources in the Good ol' U S of A (you'll even find 'em on ebay)..
I'm using one of these, and am extremely happy with it :)
:)
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AnswerID:
392108
Reply By: KennyBWilson - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 01:31
Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 01:31
Hi Lia,
What size Solar panel have to got
AnswerID:
392116
Reply By: Boobook2 - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 06:14
Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 06:14
Lia, regardless of which amp capacity you get, you won't
cook the battery. The amp rating is the maximum capacity, not how much it forces into the battery.
As mentioned earlier basically get the most amps you can afford. The rating of 15A, 20A or 25A etc is the maximum that the charger can handle.
The capacity you buy will determine the maximum solar Panel Capacity you can use.
For MPPT chargers it will work out like this at peak performance.
15A means that you can use up to about 180 watts of solar panels.
20A means that you can use up to about 240 watts of solar panels.
25A means that you can use up to about 300 watts of solar panels.
You could get say a 25A charger with only say 80W of panels and it will all work perfectly. Getting the larger capacity in the charger will allow you to add more panels later.
AnswerID:
392121
Reply By: Member - Mike DID - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 06:40
Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 06:40
What is the MAXIMUM amount of Solar Panel power you expect to be getting in the future ?
If you don't expect to be getting more than 250 watts of Solar Panels, then there is absolutely no point in getting anything bigger than a 15 amp solar regulator.
I could impress you with lot's of technical information explaining why, but I think this is the answer you want.
AnswerID:
392124
Follow Up By: Member - John and Val - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 08:56
Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 08:56
Lia
Your electricity requirements (and the depth of your pocket!) determine the size of your solar capacity. See our blog
Electricity for Camping for an approach to determining your electricity requirements and ways of meeting them. In our experience, 150W of solar capacity is about right, but you should do your own energy budget based on your own requirements. As Mike says a 15 amp regulator will be adequate for up to about 250W of panels, which (along with the associated battery capacity) is probably more than you will ever want to carry.
Cheers
John
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Follow Up By: Member - Lia H (SA) - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 10:23
Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 10:23
THANKS. By George I think she's got it!
I don't have panels yet. But I'd anticipate getting around 150 - 200W.
I don't think we would need bigger, as we have a three way fridge, so mainly gas, couple of LEDs, (although I saw a great tip last night, with someone who had a few of the garden solar lights and just sticks them around the
campsite...charges all day, light the
campsite at night) and my lappy.
But the cost of the 20a was not much less than the 30a, so will probly go that way, in case I get a solar fettish later down the track...I do like my gadgets...
:)
FollowupID:
660076
Reply By: Member - Lia H (SA) - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 12:58
Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 12:58
OK! Ive found a morningstar 30 amp with monitor and temp. snesor for US$215. Its PWM not MPPT, but I can live with that.
Thanks for advice.
AnswerID:
392175
Follow Up By:- Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 14:38
Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 14:38
I guess it's all looking pretty sorted now for you Lia.
Just one more bit of advice on matching your battery to your solar regulator:
You've got one with temperature sensor - that's good for battery longevity. But only if you tell the regulator, the correct type of battery.
The type of battery makes the regulator output the right charging voltages, which is just as important as temperature compensation of these voltages.
It's just as with many other things in life, batteries and chargers/regulators need to be matched as good as possible for things to give the least trouble in the longer run.
BTW, this 6-deep-cycle-AGM-battery-thingy, they went for over 100 bucks each didn't they?
Best regards, mr.batteryvalue
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