Landcruiser overheating

Submitted: Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 00:34
ThreadID: 73905 Views:25856 Replies:15 FollowUps:12
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Hi all, did quick search but couldnt really come up with anything.

Im asking this for a mate, who by the way brought the vehicle from me. Its a 1990 75 series with 1HZ. Problem is, when on the open road and travelling at around 100km/h with air con on it is fine, but as soon as you step over that the temp goes up from half to about 3/4. Have never attempted to see if it stops there or keeps going up, cause as soon as you back off to 100km it drops again. I learned to live with it as it saved fuel, but he is very frustrated cause lately he cant go over 95km with air con on without it getting hot. Turn air con off and its fine can sit on 100 but in 42 degree heat its not fun.

He took it too local mechanic to try and source the problem, thinking faulty thermo, fan or maybe hoses sucking in but was told dont bother. He said all 1HZs with over 300,000kms will always run hot because of number 5 cylinder always running hot.

By the way car has only done 304,000kms and has never been flogged or anything and has always been flushed and good coolant used. He took it home and has started to try and eliminate the probelm himself one thing at a time.

Anyone ever heard this theory before. I know there will be many people out there with 1HZs still able to do 110 with air con on surely. Vehicle only has 31'' A/Ts so not running big tyres or anything like that. Has standard exhaust too, could extractors maybe lower temps of the block if number 5 does run hot?

Cheers everyone.

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Reply By: philldeb - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 04:33

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 04:33
Tell your mate to give the radiator and the a/c condenser a good external hose out Dust;grass;bugs etc build up over time
AnswerID: 392119

Reply By: Therifleman - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 07:07

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 07:07
This may be of some assistance.My 80 series started to overheat,so mechanic did all the right things,still overheating(according to the gauge).Fitted a proper temp.gauge temporarily -no overheating.Apparently there is a fault with the fuel gauge which causes the temp. gauge to malfunction.The problem was solved by replacing the FUEL gauge-no more problems.Not saying this is the cause of your overheating.but it was with my vehicle.My mechanic was told that this was a fairly commom problem with some 80 series by one of the local auto-electricians.This may sound a bit far-fetched but I thought it may be of some help.
Cheers,Mick.
AnswerID: 392127

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 08:32

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 08:32
That was a common problem on the 60series too - I didn't realise that it also happened with the 80series. The fuel and temp gauges are powered by 7 volts via a primitive bimetallic regulator that is located in the fuel gauge. So when the regulator goes on the blink, both gauges read high. It usually happens intermittently. And yes, when you replace the fuel gauge, you fix the temp gauge.

But Mick's mate's problem sounds very predictable, so I don't think this is the cause. And I'm not sure whether the 75series had the same setup.
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Reply By: dbish - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 08:36

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 08:36
Hi Kroozer Souds very mutch like radiator is either externaly blocked with grass seeds etc, or internaly blocked cores flushing will not clean out core radiator needs removing , top tank removed & cores roding to clean them radiator places do this. What you described sounds like partly blocked radiator NOT faulty gauge. Cheers Daryl
AnswerID: 392131

Reply By: Serendipity (WA) - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 08:44

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 08:44
Hi Kroozer

If fuel injectors are faulty and either under fueling or over fueling they will make that piston run hot.

Found this on site talking about fuel injectors.

David



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AnswerID: 392134

Follow Up By: Member - Duncs - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 08:54

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 08:54
I think you are right David,

My GQ had a problem that sounded very much like this one. It was fixed with a full fuel system service by one of the best diesel fuel injection service centres around.

A previous service by another 'specialist' had only made it worse.

The guy who fixed it said it was important to balance all the injectors and ensure the pump pressure was spot on.

He said the main cause of diesels overheating is overfuelling.

Duncs
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Reply By: 3.0turbob - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 08:50

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 08:50
Hi Kroozer,
Don't know if you've tried already, but you could have a look at the LCOOL site,(Land Cruiser Owners On Line), the LC gurus may be able to help. Just type LCOOL into Google.

Rob
AnswerID: 392135

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 08:51

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 08:51
I'll assume there is no aftermarket turbo.

On my daughter's 1Hz, we didn't realise we had a problem until we fitted a TM2 that constantly measures temperature. First thing we found out was that the temp gauge stays steady with the needle in the middle from about 60 to 95 degrees - Toyota build in a "flat spot" so the driver is not bothered by fluctuations. So you may find that the temp is actually up when you're cruising at 100kph too.

We decided to check everything.
#1 Pulled the radiator out and we found dirt and grass in the fins of the radiator (but nothing was not visible from the front as the A/C Condensor had been cleaned). We cleaned this out.
#2 Sent the radiator to the shop and had the top tank removed and the radiator rodded - it was 60% blocked (cost $130)
#3 Removed the thermostat, sat it in the saucepan of water on the stove and measured the temps at which it opened - should start to open at 76 deg and fully open at 90 deg. This one was opening 5 degrees too high, so we bought a new thermostat from toyota (cost $30 - cheaper than supacheap!)
#4 Removed the thermofan - dismantled it and checked it for the viscous fluid. this one actually had plenty, but you can buy an 18ml tube of the stuff from Toyota and refill it if you need to (costs $13 a tube).
#5 We replaced the water pump as well because we were there - but this is the least likely cause of overheating.
#6 flushed the block and heater in both directions.
#7 new hoses and belts.

So we had 4 causes of the overheating, and if I had your problem, I'd do the same checks.

The 70series have little radiator space and with the 75series, not a lot of space for airflow under the bonnet. So driving lights, some bullbars and even dual batteries and other accessories reduce the airflow under the bonnet.

Cheers
Phil

AnswerID: 392136

Follow Up By: age - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 09:09

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 09:09
Spot on Phil - had to do all 4 for my 80 series 1HZ - never had the problem again after that

In the end the 4 are quite cheap maintenance compared to what could happen if left alone.

My main thing was a genuine thermostat. The original was excellent, but I replaced it before a big trip and the new one just was not right and opened a little high. My hub had also lost fluid.


Cheers


A
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Follow Up By: Willem - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 09:13

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 09:13
Hmmmm Phil..... I wonder when you find time to work?......LOL

After 5 years of living with GQ idiosyncracies I have done all of the above and now have added a digital cylinderhead temperature display so I can monitor the exact temp as a drive along. A lot of gauge problems stem from corruption of printed circuit boards behind the dash fascia.

Nice cool day here and have measured 35mm over the past 2 days


Cheers

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FollowupID: 660064

Follow Up By: Member - Josh (TAS) - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 10:02

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 10:02
Hi Willem, Love that photo of the fox. That is brilliant. It was a good day shooting I assume.

Josh
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Reply By: Atta Boy Luther - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 09:21

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 09:21
Go to a radiator place and have the radiator and engine power flushed out . Costs me $150 every year . Never had a overheating problem with the 1HZ.
AnswerID: 392142

Reply By: Top End Explorer - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 09:30

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 09:30
If the temperature rises and falls like you say, I would start with the viscus hub at the fan, this may be as simple as putting some viscus hub oil in it.

Cheers Steve.
AnswerID: 392146

Follow Up By: fisho64 - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 14:27

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 14:27
As hes driving at 90kmh, probably unlikely, fans do nothing over about 20 or 30kmh
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FollowupID: 660093

Follow Up By: Member - Mfewster(SA) - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 18:01

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 18:01
I'm with Phil. Had a similar problem and tried everything with no success. Problem was eventually found to be in the clutch of the fan which in fact wasn't disengaging at speed, as it should and the whole clutch unit was not turning freely and this was adding considerably to the engine load.
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FollowupID: 660109

Follow Up By: StormyKnight - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 18:11

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 18:11
It will most likely be the fan......same symptoms as a mates 1HZ.

These cars have a large radiator which holds a lot of water & has a large cooling area, but once you start pushing along the heat builds up. The fan needs to be able to cut in even at highway speeds....

With the AC on the evaporator is in front of the radiator, the extra heat from it is pushing the water temp over the top.

The fan should have resistance to turning even when cold & engine is off. You should not be able to spin it virtually at all. Perhaps an inch if that.

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FollowupID: 660110

Follow Up By: fisho64 - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 22:18

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 22:18
interesting-one of you is saying cos the fans not cutting in, the other cos its not cutting out?
I say that the fan isnt likely to be moving more than possibly 50kmh winds anyway, above that it doesnt matter whats happening with it.
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FollowupID: 660146

Follow Up By: fisho64 - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 22:22

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 22:22
oh but I'll also say again-fit an after market temp gauge first and make sure of exactly the extent of the problem before chasing your tail chasing a problem that ma or may not be there. Even if there is a problem youll be ardressed to assss the success or otherwise of any changes you make..
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FollowupID: 660148

Follow Up By: get outmore - Wednesday, Nov 25, 2009 at 10:45

Wednesday, Nov 25, 2009 at 10:45
fisho64

the fans certainly do plenty at high speeds

when i bought my 80 one of the tests was a flat out run in wam weather.

It held normal on the gauge for a bit then whacked up at an indicated 150kph

I negotiated a lower price with a new radiator

fitted new radiator and tested again - run warm again and even boiled after I pulled up.

I then noticed the fan was free spinning when i stopped the engine

filled the viscous hub with gel and tested again
- no further problem

all testing was done on the same stretch of road in the same conditions at the same speed
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FollowupID: 660489

Follow Up By: fisho64 - Wednesday, Nov 25, 2009 at 17:35

Wednesday, Nov 25, 2009 at 17:35
"even boiled after I pulled up."

theres your answer. Its boiled after pulling up with fan not working.
Heat removal isnt instantaneous, after running hard it takes time to disapate.

Your fan would have to be a good one to make more than 150kph winds I would think? Put your hand out the window at that speed then feel the breeze of the fan.
You may find that there is another fault and the fan is merely fixing the symptom.
Cars like the Commodore etc that have electric fans, you will rarely or never hear them start up other than at the lights, or stopped, or in stop start traffic.

But hey, thats just my thoughts!
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FollowupID: 660563

Reply By: fisho64 - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 10:07

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 10:07
first thing of all I would do is install an aftermarket temperature gauge to find out there is actually a problem and how bad it is.
Standard gauges are not linear and hence I doubt it is going from running fine at 90 to overheating at 95.
They are designed to sit in the middle til outside certain parameter then move.

AnswerID: 392151

Reply By: Member - Lotzi (QLD) - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 10:13

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 10:13
Very good tips above, you may find that the bottom radiator hose is sucking in.

Cheers

AnswerID: 392152

Reply By: sweetwill - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 10:37

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 10:37
hi kroozer
after 304,000 it would be time for a professional radiator clean bill.
AnswerID: 392156

Reply By: Member - Graham H (QLD) - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 12:02

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 12:02
Something no one has mentioned and Im not sure if it applies to your model.

In a 100 ser 1HZ if the motor gets hot the A/c cuts out, done by a sensor near the radiator.

Maybe yours has been disconnected.


Just a thought


AnswerID: 392170

Reply By: Member - mick C (NSW) - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 15:15

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 15:15
Kroozer
Had same problem with 75 series, did all of suggested ideas , still had issues .The bonnets seal too well with rubber strip preventing escape of hot air ,causes batteries to fail before time [toyota placed insulated covers around battery and put vents out the side through the gaurd], I put a 4mm spacer between bonnet and bonnet hinges and allowed hot air to escape , you could the diesel rattle more easily but small issue to have a cooler motor .Toyota did not have this problem before the 75 series came out in late 1984 , the previous model had vented bonnets and no rubber sealing strip .At the same time I had a 60 series factory turbo , no issues due to bigger radiator , different shape under bonnet due to full width bonnet over wheels therefore different air flow characteristics. Over the cooler months I would remove spacers ,I did have to instal extra bracing around captive nuts as cracks showed up after 3 summers , the area I live is western NSW and many days are above 40 degrees , the vehicle was a work truck and was not spared , fitted with bars etc. I even moved the Super Oscars to above the roof to assist airflow
Best of luck Mick
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AnswerID: 392187

Reply By: Member - Kroozer (WA) - Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 23:57

Sunday, Nov 22, 2009 at 23:57
Excellent, thanks everybody for your input. Seems it could be one of a million things or all of the above. Will let him know and he can decide what way he wants to go with it. I personally would fit the aftermarket gauge as mentioned first, then start a process of elimination. Probably pay just to buy a new fan, fit new hoses and get radiator done by pro, then see what happens.

Again, thanks all didnt expect to raise so much interest and get so many great results.

Cheers
AnswerID: 392261

Reply By: Harrow - Tuesday, Nov 24, 2009 at 21:49

Tuesday, Nov 24, 2009 at 21:49
Hi Kroozer

Same prob 1hz overheat on hills of higher speeds

Put in TM temp, and confirmed.

Had new rad, and hoses so not that.

#4 Silicone Fluid into viscous coupling and problem went away

evan at highway speeds the fan helps
Cheers

Harrow
AnswerID: 392496

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