FullRiver DC or HGL under bonnet

I had thought that thicker plates would be better? So if they're both agm, then the DC may be the way to go.

I've had a trojan battery DC in there for the last 5 years and it's only started to die in the last year. Considering it was fractionally too high, and the caps kept getting knocked off by occasional rubbing on the bonnet and having to be constantly topped up because of this, it hasn't done too bad.

I think I need to start a Fullriver battery thread...

There seems to be a lot of misleading and incorrect statements being made both here and elsewhere.

There are numerous Fullriver models available, but the two common ones are HGL (not HCL) and DC series. HGL is a standby battery which is OK for for light duty cylcic use only. For dedicated Deep-Cycle use, use the "DC" series. None of them are "Hybrids" they are all Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM).

Lead plate thickness is only small part of the picture. Alloy type, casting, bus-bar thickness and welding, etc are all contributing factors to battery life.

No Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) battery - also known as a Valve Regulated Lead Acid (VRLA) battery - regardless of if it has GEL or Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) should be used under the bonnet without a heat sheild. It is also a VERY GOOD practice for conventional batteries too as they will not lose as much water and generally have a longer life too.

All batteries are subject to thermal runaway. Some types more so than others. A "puffed up" or swollen battery is not thermal runaway, just overheating while on charge (and gas building pressure inside puches the plastic casing outwards). This can be caused by incorrect charging too.

It is also worth noting that the DC100-12 has been phased out and replaced with the new DC105-12 and the The DC115-12B (note the "B" suffix as there is an "A" version which has different dimensions) has been phased out and is now replaced with the new DC120-12B. Both are the same price as the old models.

This is not an advertisment, just a public sharing of information.

Best regards, Dave Petrie (Fullriver Product Manager, Australia & NZ)

Thanks for that useful information.

Does this mean fullriver don't make a battery that is around the 115Ah that is ok for things like fridges that can live under the bonnet?

A local guy here mentioned to look at the supreme deep cycle battery (27DC36 (which I believe has been renamed to 27DC115)) as it can be topped up and doesn't mind the heat as much.

Any thoughts on this battery?

Chris.

DC85-12, DC105-12 or DC120-12B are perfect for fridges and can survive well when used under bonnet provided they have a good heatshield. Optional sheetmetal trays are now readily available for 80Ah and 100Ah sizes.

I can't comment on the Supreme product. Vented (conventional "wet" type) batteries should be protected from heat to maximize their service life too, and can of course be "topped up". However their deep-cycle life is generally less than any AGM - you need to ask the supplier for a cycle life graph to compare them properly. Like this; http://www.fullriver.com/products/admin/upfile/DCcyclelife.pdf
They usually have less available AH for their given size too.

Best regards, Dave

Thanks again. Will try and find the graph.

The supreme is made by crown so I assume it'd be alright, is a bit cheaper than the full river too. Will think about it tonight and go shopping tomorrow.

The local guys used to use Trojan and moved to Supreme a couple of years ago and use them in mining cars so they can't be too bad. They did also say they've never looked back/not regretted changing to the supreme.

Chris.

A good alternatve between these two is the Delkor DC range. They are a conventional calcium type, and maintainence free. We also stock ACDelco and Interstate in both Calcium and Conventional too.

Dave

I assume you mean both will bulge since they are both agm?

That's a good idea. The battery box it sits in currently goes up about 2/3 the height of the battery. The box is at the back passenger side of the engine bay. it also has a approx 5-10cm pipe going into the side of the box which exits outside the engine bay behind the front wheel arch (but still behind the outer fender.)

Like the idea of the sunshade insulation too. Hadn't thought of insulation.

Might increase the height of the box to help prevent the top from getting hot.

Chris.

Insulation (any type) only slows heat transfer. You need cool air getting to the battery to offset the hot air under the engine bay.

The biggest issue you face is hot air (convection). Ignore the rubbish about radiation from hot exhaust - it's mostly rubbish.

Without a supply of cool(er) air, the battery will still overheat and likely fail.

Optima / Odyssey are more heat tolerant, but are still not rated to charge over 50c and will suffer a much shorter life at elevated temperature.

Although I like AGM's - esp the fullrivers - for the rear of an engine bay - a wet cell you can add water to may be more cost effective.

Could you reshuffle to put the wet starter at the rear and the expensive AGM at the front?

I put a thermometer on the top of the battery on the ride in to work this morning. Once the engine got up to temperature it hovered around the 45 degrees mark. Once I stopped and turned off the engine it slowly went up to about 55. The drive into work is about 20kms and has some hilly freeway 110km/h parts, then surface roads at the end of 50km/h with traffic lights.

So how hot is too hot?

Sorry that's on top of the dyeing trojan DC battery at the back of the engine bay. The battery also had a load on it of stereo amp and the cf-80 fridge.

50c or if you can't hold your hand on the terminal for a long time.

Think 40c day, 110km/hr, Ac on, with a trailer, after 4hrs driving.

Charging makes heat in AGM's
Overcharging makes more heat as they can't lose fluid to lose heat.
They are a BIG lump of lead. Takes a couple of hours to heat up.

Your engine bay may be cool, but unlikely. Air off radiator normally around 60c. Under heavy work can get to 90c.

YMMV

Paul