Tuesday, Dec 29, 2009 at 18:57
As already said, there are many factors affecting the charge rate, but probably the main one is the extent of voltage loss in wiring between the main cranking battery and the trailer battery. The only way to really know what current is flowing to the trailer batteries is to measure it. This current is very dependent on voltage and any loss of voltage in the cables (both +12V and ground return) will have a major effect. Unless you have very big cables and good (Anderson for preference) connectors, I doubt that your trailer battery bank will ever see more than 10A.
It isn't generally recognised how important wiring losses can be. In most cases, the alternator will deliver about 14V (cold), less when hot . The battery chemistry defines its voltage to be about 12.6V. The small voltage difference (14 - 12.6 = 1.4V) is what's pushing charge into the battery. We can easily lose a volt in the wiring and this will drop the current into the battery by
well over half.
We have a meter mounted on the dashboard monitoring current flow at the batteries, which in our Troopy are mounted behind the seats (much less wiring length and hence losses than in your case). With a half discharged battery we charge at up to about 15 amps initially, dropping to half that as the alternator warms up. (This temperature response is deliberate designed into alternators - it is aimed at optimising conditions for the cranking battery.)
If you'd like to measure the current into/out of your batteries, there are 3 options - 1) clamp meters exist, simply clamp them around the wire to make a rough measurement. 2) Insert a -20 to +20 amp meter into the charging line. Problem here is that the meter can't be viewed while you are on the road.
3) In my opinion very much better - insert in the battery line a very low value resistor (1/1000 ohm is ideal) and measure the voltage drop across it using a cheap digital meter. (each amp will produce 1 millivolt) Suitable resistors and meters are available from Jaycar and similar
places. This approach will require a bit of familiarity with the technology, but works very
well, as the meter and display can be remote from the point where the measurement is made.
Lastly, chargers are available to increase the charging voltage ( and hence current). You might be interested to read our blog
Electricity for Camping where these and many other things are discussed.
To respond directly to your question - I'd expect that you are getting no more than 10 amps into your batteries, and probably average much less than that. Let's say 7 amps average. So each hour you are putting in 7 amphours of charge, which is really not enough for a 200+ Amphour battery bank. You most certainly are not getting the 50 or 60 amps suggested by others. Suggest get an autoelectrician to measure it for you. For the health of your batteries you really need to be able to charge them fully, and I can't see that happening.
Sorry to spread gloom, but wish you the best!
Cheers
John | J and V
"Not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted."
- Albert Einstein
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Follow Up By: Member - Mark E (VIC) - Tuesday, Dec 29, 2009 at 20:39
Tuesday, Dec 29, 2009 at 20:39
Very
well written and concise,
John.
I have a similar setup to the OP and I have used 25mm sq/twin cable to the camper with 175 amp Anderson plugs and even with this size cable I understand the compromise with voltage drop. ( I have read Colyn Rivers' books).
From what I have ascertained my 220 AH bank will charge in roughly 4-6 hours if not depleted beyond the safe level of about 60%. When I get
home it's on to the 240v charger to get them right up. Currently looking into solar.
Thanks for the info. Must have a look at your blog.
Cheers,
Mark
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Follow Up By: zigdog - Tuesday, Dec 29, 2009 at 20:46
Tuesday, Dec 29, 2009 at 20:46
Thanks
John, very detailed reply.
I am getting a solar pack to help with charge while we're static for a few days. I hope to never let them drop low, so only aiming for top up charges between sites. Just wondered if my wire was good enough and how much charge i'd get for each hour of engine run.
thanks
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Follow Up By: Maîneÿ . . .- Wednesday, Dec 30, 2009 at 15:07
Wednesday, Dec 30, 2009 at 15:07
With a decent solar system you should have the DC battery system fully charged ALL day, not needing any recharging from the vehicle at all during the day.
Maîneÿ . . .
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