Questions on CHEMICAL rust prevention in new vehicle

Submitted: Friday, Jan 01, 2010 at 13:40
ThreadID: 74794 Views:3126 Replies:4 FollowUps:1
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Heya Folks

Anyways, have a question on wether people are still getting chemical rust prevention applied to their cars?

I'm not going down the "Electronic rust prevention" debate track. I'm not convinced they work, since the scientfic evidence is pretty much lacking, and I don't go down the "anecdotal" statement path anymore. If you like them, then go for it. But I want to see hard, scientifically backed evidence before I'm convinced.

However, I have had chemical protection added in the past. Specifically, I had Endrust applied underbody and in the panel cavities many years ago, and it seemed pretty good (apart from the reapplication annually). That was 17 yeas ago, and haven't had a new car with it on since ;)

On the other hand, my current car I'm about to sell for the new Triton, a Holden Frontera, while having done little offroad or beach work, shows basically no corrosion underneath after 10 years, so it's clear the way cars are now manufactured plays a big part in their corrosion resistance.

Spoke to RACQ technical 2 days ago, and they suggested a chemical treatment is the way to go, IF I wanted extra corrosion protection over the standard vehicle manufactured protection. So, anyone still using this stuff? How do you find it?

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Reply By: dbish - Friday, Jan 01, 2010 at 14:46

Friday, Jan 01, 2010 at 14:46
Hi Scott, What i used was pressure paks of fish oil took every panel of inside of vehicle & spreyed it every where, smells abit for afew weeks. Vehicle is now 11yrs old & no rust any where. Daryl
AnswerID: 397200

Reply By: Ozboc - Friday, Jan 01, 2010 at 14:51

Friday, Jan 01, 2010 at 14:51
My nissan Patrol is a 2000 Model --- so now 10 years old ---

used regularly for 4x4ing inc deep mud
used regularly on Stockton beach ( until the recent move )

used for towing and general driving ...

rust prevention measures --- wash the thing ...

amount of rust ... apart from some spots where paint has been chipped or from rocks and tiny bit of surface rust from sand driving ( where paint has worn off ) almost Nil

If your going to keep your car for 20 Years --- maybe its worth it -- if you change your cars every few years - 10 years just maintain a good cleaning routine and things should be fine ...

not sure if this could be said for disco's or Korean cars... This has been my experience

AnswerID: 397202

Follow Up By: ChrisE - Monday, Jan 04, 2010 at 11:04

Monday, Jan 04, 2010 at 11:04
I agree with the statement on Korean cars. They don't have the same sort of coated or even high strength steels available over there so tend to use lots of crap steel. I don't consider a car that is made in Korea to be a keeper, they are cheap, so factor in a trade as the warranty expires and then don't bother with the extra protection.

On a side note, I have a 2004 patrol, which I managed to submerge just above door sill seals and got a small amount of water into the floor. So I pulled out the front seats and carpet and found a bracket the bolts to the floor which the seat then bolts to which was made from uncoated steel and unsurprisingly it had started to get some surface rust on it and where contacting the body paintwork had started to transfer the rust there (even the locally made cars don't use any uncoated steel inside the car). I made sure I unbolted and cleaned the rust and primed the brackets (on both sides) before putting back together.
FollowupID: 666425

Reply By: pop2jocem - Friday, Jan 01, 2010 at 17:40

Friday, Jan 01, 2010 at 17:40
Mining companies that are operating in areas renowned for high salt concentrations such as the Goldfields of WA and of course those in the North West where they are involved in salt mining would always get their vehicles treated from new by Endrust or some other similar mob. I'm not sure if they still do as I have not worked in these areas for some years. I think a lot just turn their fleets over more regularly or just use hire vehicles which I guess is much the same. I have seen Landcruiser gearboxes and transfer cases (aluminium) eaten through after very few years in these environments because I guess there is not much you can do to protect these parts. The bodies seem to fair slightly better. I suppose this is the extreme end of the scale. At the other end a mate bought an FJ40 brand new in 1977 and had the full chemical treatment (can't remember who did it Endrust I think) anyway he sold it about 6 or 7 years later, and not surprisingly no rust. By coincidence he happened to see this same car in a local Supermarket car park some 20 years later. He was sure it was the same vehicle because although he couldn't remember the exact rego number it rang a bell and the clincher was the unusual 'roo bar fitted that he made himself. Curiosity aroused he waited until the owner showed up and had a chat. It seems this guy had bought it about 18 months after the mate had sold it so someone else must have had it for a short while. Cutting an already too long story shorter this bloke was surprised how well the body had kept considering that vintage Cruiser was not known for being rust free for that long. So in that case the stuff had worked and worked well. My opinion having owned similar vintage Cruisers and later I think they are much better painted/finished nowadays.

Cheers Pop
AnswerID: 397227

Reply By: Member - joc45 (WA) - Friday, Jan 01, 2010 at 23:41

Friday, Jan 01, 2010 at 23:41
Hi Scott,
I too am a sceptic with electronic rust protection.

My impressions are that compared with vehicles of 30 or more years ago, most modern vehicles seem to have a lot better priming of the metal before the rest of the paint goes on. I ran a Maverick for 12 years, with no rust, and that included beach driving. I just gave the affected areas a good hosing asap after driving the beach. My current GU is now nearly 10 years old and again, no rust.
On an old 70's Fiat I had, which was badly affected by rust, I found that fish oil seemed to stop further rusting. Unlike protective wax, the oil seems to soak right thru the rust and down into seams.

Re Endrust, back in the late 70's, my father bought a new Isuzu ute, had it treated, then about 5 years later found bad rust coming through. He made a claim on Endrust, as there was a 7 year warranty, and first thing was he found that the sleazy salesman had written on the guarantee that the vehicle was second-hand, therefore the s/h 5 year warranty had expired. When proof was offered that the vehicle was bought new and endrusted immediately, the firm then stated that since they had changed owners, the warranty was not enforceable. Being in a small town, he didn't want the publicity of taking them to consumer affairs, so had it patched up and traded it (if it was me, I would have gone for the jugular, but that was his decision). Basically, the original ute had very poor metal priming to start with, and the wax coating didn't make a bit of difference.
AnswerID: 397271

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