troopy bearing help

eewwwww..!!..That looks terrible.

You'll need to sue a impact screw driver to gently tap the lock ring screw undone to remove the threaded lock ring to access the wheel bearings.

To undo the and retighten the rear wheel bearing locknut you'll need one of these.



The color of the grease imncates you've had some moisture in there for a while, and I reckon you will be replacing the wheel bearings as well, have a look at the races and cones when you clean them up.

I'd be loooking at why you got the water/moisture in there... seal, or standard diff breather and it's been for a shallow swim while the rear axle/diff is hot..

Bloody hell, prefer the nissan to replace bearings on any day.

Col

Hi Lyndon,
Maybe the overnight soak in salty brine when the tide came in during your Cape Arnhem bogging has something to do with the rust and the condition of the grease!
As suggested, it might be wise to fit new wheel bearings along with seals. Also have you checked the colour of the diff oil and do you have extended breathers fitted?

Chris

To remove the rear wheel bearing nut you just unscrew the phillips head screws & wind the big nut off (the picture of the big box spanner shown in a earlier reply is incorrect as it is for the front wheel bearing nuts not the rear nut)

The correct tool has pins on it that engage into the holes in the nut but you can use a couple of screwdrivers to poke into the holes in the nut with another screwdriver to turn the screwdrivers instead of the correct tool

While you have it apart replace the axle seal that pushes into the end of the axle housing as well asw the hub seal & hub gasket

Regards Don

Hi Lyndon

I had a 1986 ute for years. Great machine.

Yes you have to use an impact screwdriver to get those phillips heads out. Only way I found

Did you know there is a cheap toyota spare parts place across the road from Toyota in Darwin. Toyota own the shop as well. The shop only stock older model parts. The cheapest bearings I could find when living in Darwin. Also the front and rear bearings on the 1986 where the same bearing but had different parts numbers and different prices.

I made myself a simple tool for tightening the rear hubs - a flat plate with three rods of 6mm diameter welded to the right shape of the lock screw. Welded a handle to it and it worked a treat.

To get the right preload on the bearings I would tighten them up till the wheel would barely turn once. Then loosen again and tighten up until you feel the pressure going on and only take it to the next hole for the phillips screws to go into.

I have the toyota manual here for 2h models which should be about the same for yours. I can scan the pages and send them to you.

David

For those who are interested this is what the toyota sst looks like Site Link (part number 09509 25011) shown on the 2nd page

Regards Don

With regard to removing the Philips head screws, get a flat ended punch and hammer and give the Philips head a smart hit on the head. You will then be able to undo them no problem, may need a couple of hits if real tight. This will also firm up the fit of the screw driver also.

Lyndon good job.

how did you go getting the rear axles out? you should see the mess my Toyota dealer has made of mine, I have had to have words with them on a couple of occasions.

Cheers

Richard

Update. Firstly a big thanks for everyone's input. Left side rear, new bearings as the old one's were rusty, the race was still perfect but obviously changed the lot. New pads, rear rotors machined, new hand brake shoes. Great, one wheel down 3 to go!! :-)
Cheers Lyndon