Fans for Jayco Dometic fridge

Submitted: Monday, Jan 25, 2010 at 21:43
ThreadID: 75493 Views:9802 Replies:8 FollowUps:10
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Hi I have a Jayco Hawk & after reading a fair bit on this forum decided to put in a fan or 2 at the rear of the dometic 3 way fridge. Can't see anywhere on here how it should be setup.. There are 3 ventilation outlets (2 on the camper trailer external wall & 1 on the benchtop..

Can someone confirm if this is the best way to hook up:
- connect both fans to the 12v input point of the fridge with a switch.(don't mind manually switching)
- place on the inside of the top external vent & have them blowing outwards

Thxs ss--ss
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Reply By: pmk03 - Monday, Jan 25, 2010 at 22:04

Monday, Jan 25, 2010 at 22:04
G'Day ss--ss,

I have a Jayco Eagle with similar vents as you describe & am looking to do the same mod also.

I reckon 12v dc fans would be the way to go as this supply is always avail whether you are connected to mains or running on your battery system. (assuming you have one)
Also keepng in mind heat rises maybe the fans at the top external vent blowing out would be good. This would allow the colder air to enter via the lower external vent & pass the rear fridge element & go out through the top vent. This would probably also stop the hot air we feel coming up through the bench top vent.
So in my opinion your ideas are spot on...... Guess we'll just wait now & see if anyone has any better ideas.
I keep an eye on this one... Hey!

PMK
AnswerID: 401031

Follow Up By: Member - John G- Wednesday, Jan 27, 2010 at 21:22

Wednesday, Jan 27, 2010 at 21:22
G'day PMK

A bit off topic but . . .

We have recently purchased a Jayco Eagle Outback 2005. I'm very interested in the fridge fan topic, but our purchase comes without a battery fitted. What sort of on board battery set up do you have, and have you modified it in any way since purchase. My intial thoughts are to have a deep cycle battery installed, with appropriate heavy cable, and charged separately via Anderson plug.

Cheers
John
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FollowupID: 670695

Follow Up By: pmk03 - Wednesday, Jan 27, 2010 at 21:49

Wednesday, Jan 27, 2010 at 21:49
G'Day John,

I installed my own battery. it was a while ago & I'm a bit cloudy on the details but I share what I can remember.
The 2007 Eagle Outback came with an onboard charger/power supply & was wired to the battery compartment already (under the front seat)
All I had to do was supply the battery. For this I bought an Alco 75ah agm battery. I also wired the battery to an Anderson Plug on the drawbar Via 16mm Sq flex cable. & then in turn from the back of my car to the auxillary battery in the car. This allows the car to charge both the Aux & caravan battery while driving.
This works well for my needs.
Of course you need to fuse all these cables at the batteries.
Not sure if the 2005 has the same charger/power supply or if they wire it to allow for a battery also. You might have to check with Jayco for these details.

I would recommend you have some that knows the correct way to do this if you don't. Don't want any fires now do we.
I do work in the electrical industry & have access to friends in the know that advised the correct (and safe) way to do it.

BTW the only thing I have that I need a battery for is lighting when I camp remote as the fridge runs on gas Thats why I only need a 75ah battery.

PMK
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FollowupID: 670707

Follow Up By: Member - John G- Thursday, Jan 28, 2010 at 19:38

Thursday, Jan 28, 2010 at 19:38
Thanks PMK, that's very helpful

Cheers
John
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FollowupID: 670858

Reply By: Hairs & Fysh (NSW) - Monday, Jan 25, 2010 at 22:30

Monday, Jan 25, 2010 at 22:30
Hi Guys,
To help stop the heat coming up through the top vent in the bench top, I've use one of these. T piece

As well as this to funnel the heat to the outside, Dometic Aluminium flue tube
These guys use to sell an external cowling to help with weather proofing, but I can't find it atm.
Then I was able to replace the vent in the bench top with a flat piece of colourbond to suit.
I'll next installed a 12v fan near the top vent facing outwards that will draw any of the heat from the tubing at the back out through that vent.

Hope that helps guys.

AnswerID: 401037

Follow Up By: ss--ss - Monday, Jan 25, 2010 at 22:52

Monday, Jan 25, 2010 at 22:52
Thanks Hairs & Fysh , mine(2008 model) already has the aluminium flue tube which I thought was standard, maybe the previous owner fitted it if it's an aftermarket..
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FollowupID: 670294

Follow Up By: Hairs & Fysh (NSW) - Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 06:50

Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 06:50
I guess the later models may have it as a standard item. My old girl is an 87 model JaySwaan and it came up through the bench top. One thing I have to watch for is, Mud wasps building their nests in the flue out let. So while the camper is parked, I shove a piece of fly wire in it to stop them. Just have to remember in our pre-trip checklist to pull it out :)



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Follow Up By: Hairs & Fysh (NSW) - Wednesday, Jan 27, 2010 at 10:36

Wednesday, Jan 27, 2010 at 10:36
I found their external cowling that suits the T piece.

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FollowupID: 670567

Reply By: Member - Keith C (NSW) - Monday, Jan 25, 2010 at 22:36

Monday, Jan 25, 2010 at 22:36
G/day SS, I have 2 thermo frig fans from Caravans Plus,they cut in at 80f approx,I've put one on the floor behind the frig pushing up and one on the inside of the top vent sucking out[reverse the red and black wires].I took the power from the 12v circuit at the back of the frig,they both come on together and make a nice air flow,don't put the bottom one too near the gas pilot light.I have also narrowed the space from the back of the frig to the van wall with styro foam sheet,[fiddley job] to decrease the the flue,the smaller venturi mores the air faster over the coils. Regards Keith C
AnswerID: 401038

Reply By: DesF - Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 12:50

Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 12:50
Hi, ss--ss, I have a Jayco Eagle and I fitted a 6" fan on the inside the top vent , it sucks the hot air out etc. the ones fitted to the bottom vent drawing air in tends to blow the hot air out of any gaps into the van making that hotter, mine is a 240v one as I usually stay in parks for longer periods, I only have to use it when the wind is from the door side , makes a fair difference to the fridge operation,
With mine I just plug it in ,in the cupboard when I need it.
They are about $20 to $30 at Dick Smiths.
Cheers Des.
AnswerID: 401101

Reply By: outsider - Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 14:01

Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 14:01
I have a rm360 that wasn't working (very old) took it out and rolled it around which got it going but would only get down to about 10 deg in the freezer.

I made a flue out of and old aluminium pole.
sealed around the top and sides of the fridge to keep the heat out.
put some fibro between the chimney and the back of the fridge.
added two 12 volt computer fans under the top element blowing up
(the two fans draw about 200mA and made a big difference)
removed the freezer door.
Don't forget to make sure it is level.

now it gets much colder,
with 2 adults and 3 kids I mainly use it for drinks, I move them from the fridge to the freezer section as I take them out and the beer is icy cold, usually covered in frost and ice but not frozen.

mmmmm Think I'll have one now.....
AnswerID: 401110

Follow Up By: pmk03 - Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 20:43

Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 20:43
outsider,

More info on removing the freezer door please.

I notice in hot weather our freezer has no problems keeping things frozen while the fridge struggles to maintiain 4 deg (mostley up around 6 deg)

Would removing the door allow the freezer to cool the fridge compartment even more & still freeze the freezer as well?

Thanks in advance

PMK
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FollowupID: 670450

Follow Up By: outsider - Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 20:55

Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 20:55
The freezer can still freeze things overnight if there isn't too much in there, obviously with the door gone it will never be as cold but the fridge section is much colder.

It sounds like your fridge works better than my old one did.
It was fairly easy to remove the door, might be worth trying and if you not happy just put the door back on.
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FollowupID: 670451

Follow Up By: pmk03 - Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 21:01

Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 21:01
Yeh, Mines a 2007...... Like you say, I'll give it a go & see

Thanks for your reply,

PMK
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FollowupID: 670453

Reply By: ss--ss - Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 16:09

Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 16:09
Thanks for all the suggestions.. I will start with one fan behind the top grill & see how it goes.
AnswerID: 401144

Reply By: PradOz - Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 19:53

Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 19:53
Hi SS--SS

suggest you have a read of fridge venting

You need to address all of the following and your fridge will be 'cool man' ;))

1. Upgrade cable size due to voltage loss at fridge. See link 2 and also link 3 for info on cable size etc.

2. reduce the gap behind the back of the fridge. If you look at the first link i gave you will find that your fridge is the one in the diagram at the very bottom right of the page (but yours also has a vent on top of the benchtop). The reason they put a vent where they did that was because the canvas walls prevented the manufacturer from having the installation as in bottom left diagram. The important thing to note is that the vent should actually be above the top of the fridge. With a camper this is impossible when the fridge top is also the top of the solid van wall. You could create the fridge in the bottom left of the page but you would either be cutting your canvas wall to fit a vent or directing heat inside which is not good in summer. (handy in winter though)

You could do what i did. I installed baffles to reduce the gap behind fridge and direct the airflow where it should be. Remove the grilles on outside of the van wall and have a look inside. You will be able to fit your hands in and up/down as needed and glue these baffles in place. You can use timber or even aluminium angle cut to length for the baffles. Best would be a solid full height baffle but its hard to do.

While you are looking inside at the back of the fridge have a look at all the gaps around the outside edge of the fridge and the top. You need to seal these. Easy to do. I just cut aluminium angle to length and glued in place over the gaps. (I used selleys all fix in a gold tube. it grabs straight away and holds most things) You could use timber etc too.

You will notice that the hole that you have for the top wall vent means you have no chance of getting the airflow higher than the fridge top. I reduced the height of the opening on mine by closing off the bottom 'half' with more aluminium angle screwed to the top of the wall framing, that way you are directing the air up as high as possible in a camper construction.

You have the top bench vent and if it was me I would close it off and direct all heat out the now narrower top wall vent, with the aid of a couple fans blowing hot air out.

3. install fans behind top wall vent to blow hot air out. If you close of the bottom half of the top wall vent you can install the fans on that.

I found that my fridge works much better simply by doing 2 and 3 above. I still have to do 1 above (fix my cable size for 12V) and then things should be sweet on both 12V and 240V. On 240V i have no problems at all.

One last thing i read somewhere once that is helpful if you can do it. Replace all yourshelves in the fridge with shelves made of aluminium sheeting. Have a look at what happens to aluminium whenits in a cool environment. The shelves 'attract' cold and hold it in the shelf and make the whole inside work even better. I also know of a person that put a small fan inside his fridge at the bottom and it blew the air around inside his fridge. He claimed his fridge was much cooler by doing this as it blew the air flow past the freezer section and around inside something like a smal air flow current i guess.

I would suggest you read the attached articles a few times until you are sure you completey understand it all. Its best if you have the vents out of the van wall so you can see exactly what you have in your camper and exactly what you need to do.

Good luck....
AnswerID: 401196

Follow Up By: ss--ss - Wednesday, Jan 27, 2010 at 22:08

Wednesday, Jan 27, 2010 at 22:08
thanks Pradoz for this comprehensive post. Some very interesting info there !
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FollowupID: 670711

Reply By: Member - David M (SA) - Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 21:04

Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 21:04
As an easy assist I fitted a computer fan to the top vent and ran it off a small solar panel. No regulator. You would be surprised how much air it moves.
AnswerID: 401206

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