Tuesday, Jan 26, 2010 at 19:53
Hi SS--SS
suggest you have a read of
fridge venting
You need to address all of the following and your fridge will be 'cool man' ;))
1. Upgrade cable size due to voltage loss at fridge. See
link 2 and also
link 3 for info on cable size etc.
2. reduce
the gap behind the back of the fridge. If you look at the first link i gave you will find that your fridge is the one in the diagram at the very bottom right of the page (but yours also has a vent on top of the benchtop). The reason they put a vent where they did that was because the canvas walls prevented the manufacturer from having the installation as in bottom left diagram. The important thing to note is that the vent should actually be above the top of the fridge. With a camper this is impossible when the fridge top is also the top of the solid van wall. You could create the fridge in the bottom left of the page but you would either be cutting your canvas wall to fit a vent or directing heat inside which is not good in summer. (handy in winter though)
You could do what i did. I installed baffles to reduce
the gap behind fridge and direct the airflow where it should be. Remove the grilles on outside of the van wall and have a look inside. You will be able to fit your hands in and up/down as needed and glue these baffles in place. You can use timber or even aluminium angle cut to length for the baffles. Best would be a solid full height baffle but its hard to do.
While you are looking inside at the back of the fridge have a look at all the gaps around the outside edge of the fridge and the top. You need to seal these. Easy to do. I just cut aluminium angle to length and glued in place over the gaps. (I used selleys all fix in a gold tube. it grabs straight away and holds most things) You could use timber etc too.
You will notice that the hole that you have for the top wall vent means you have no chance of getting the airflow higher than the fridge top. I reduced the height of the opening on
mine by closing off the bottom 'half' with more aluminium angle screwed to the top of the wall framing, that way you are directing the air up as high as possible in a camper construction.
You have the top bench vent and if it was me I would close it off and direct all heat out the now narrower top wall vent, with the aid of a couple fans blowing hot air out.
3. install fans behind top wall vent to blow hot air out. If you close of the bottom half of the top wall vent you can install the fans on that.
I found that my fridge works much better simply by doing 2 and 3 above. I still have to do 1 above (fix my cable size for 12V) and then things should be sweet on both 12V and 240V. On 240V i have no problems at all.
One last thing i read somewhere once that is helpful if you can do it. Replace all yourshelves in the fridge with shelves made of aluminium sheeting. Have a look at what happens to aluminium whenits in a cool environment. The shelves 'attract' cold and hold it in the shelf and make the whole inside work even better. I also know of a person that put a small fan inside his fridge at the bottom and it blew the air around inside his fridge. He claimed his fridge was much cooler by doing this as it blew the air flow past the freezer section and around inside something like a smal air flow current i guess.
I would suggest you read the attached articles a few times until you are sure you completey understand it all. Its best if you have the vents out of the van wall so you can see exactly what you have in your camper and exactly what you need to do.
Good luck....
AnswerID:
401196
Follow Up By: ss--ss - Wednesday, Jan 27, 2010 at 22:08
Wednesday, Jan 27, 2010 at 22:08
thanks Pradoz for this comprehensive post. Some very interesting info there !
FollowupID:
670711